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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So this morning here in beautiful, sunny Wisconsin we were having a white-out. 50-yard visibility, with 30 mph winds. Good day to put your head in the oven, or something. :thumb:

Instead of baking my cabeza, I decided to trim the pinch seams on my Jeep. Now, a lotta peeps think this is a must when running 35" or larger tires, but that's not necessarily the case. A lot of things factor into it: the size of your lift, the running size of your tires, whether or not your lift has adj ca's & tb's, etc.

Also, when you stuff your rear wheels, they generally go up, and slightly to the back, which moves them away from the cursed pinch seams. But again, this depends on your lift, tires, etc.

The pinch seam is most dangerous when you air down. Crossing an obstacle – a log, a rock, a trench – will bulge your aired-down tire. That's where many peeps run into trouble with the pinch seams.

Mine PROBABLY had enough clearance to not be a problem, but I keep looking at it, and thinking about it, and eventually decided that it had to go. Plus last night I dreamed about it slicing my tire on the freeway, and jerked awake to echoing laughter, so...:D

There's a thread on WF about the "bend" method of getting rid of the pinch seam, where you take a BFH and pound the crap out of it till it bends back and in. Seeing as how I'm no caveman, I decided on a more refined method.

Here it is, pretty much step-by-step.

*****WARNING: Some of the steps outlined here are anal, and can be avoided by those of you who are less concerned with quality, rather than results.*****

Here's what you need to do the job. Pretty much self-explanatory. Two things not in the photo that I used were safety glasses, and a putty knife for spreading the JB Weld.
View attachment 96337

The offending portion of the rear pinch seam, with painter's tape to guide my cut.
View attachment 96338

Close-up of the pinch seam. The plastic on mine is the tail end of some Bushwacker body armor. That's toast, too. If you run your fingers along the back side of the pinch seam, you'll feel a channel. If you cut into the channel, you'll expose a gap in the sheets of metal that will need to be filled with JB Weld and sanded before you rustproof and paint the cut edges of the seam. In my case, I didn't feel it was necessary to make that deep of a cut, though I still used some JB Weld. You'll see why in a few.
View attachment 96339

Post-surgery. Man, my hands are steady. Like stone. :D Make sure you don't goof around with the cut; start it, set the blade and let er rip. If you stop and start a bunch, or hesitate, you'll end up with a zig-zag. I don't think it took a full minute to lop the whole corner off.
View attachment 96340

Tight shot of the cut. Notice the separated strips of sheet metal. That's because, when you cut off the corner of the pinch seam, you're cutting off the end-most spot-weld that holds the various metal panels together. But fear not, there are welds all along the bottom of your pinch seam. The Jeep body won't come flying off next time you peg the speedometer on the freeway. Hopefully. :)
View attachment 96341
 

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kbwwolf said:
So this morning here in beautiful, sunny Wisconsin we were having a white-out. 50-yard visibility, with 30 mph winds. Good day to put your head in the oven, or something. :thumb:

Instead of baking my cabeza, I decided to trim the pinch seams on my Jeep. Now, a lotta peeps think this is a must when running 35" or larger tires, but that's not necessarily the case. A lot of things factor into it: the size of your lift, the running size of your tires, whether or not your lift has adj ca's & tb's, etc.

Also, when you stuff your rear wheels, they generally go up, and slightly to the back, which moves them away from the cursed pinch seams. But again, this depends on your lift, tires, etc.

The pinch seam is most dangerous when you air down. Crossing an obstacle – a log, a rock, a trench – will bulge your aired-down tire. That's where many peeps run into trouble with the pinch seams.

Mine PROBABLY had enough clearance to not be a problem, but I keep looking at it, and thinking about it, and eventually decided that it had to go. Plus last night I dreamed about it slicing my tire on the freeway, and jerked awake to echoing laughter, so...:D

There's a thread on WF about the "bend" method of getting rid of the pinch seam, where you take a BFH and pound the crap out of it till it bends back and in. Seeing as how I'm no caveman, I decided on a more refined method.

Here it is, pretty much step-by-step.

*****WARNING: Some of the steps outlined here are anal, and can be avoided by those of you who are less concerned with quality, rather than results.*****

Here's what you need to do the job. Pretty much self-explanatory. Two things not in the photo that I used were safety glasses, and a putty knife for spreading the JB Weld.

The offending portion of the rear pinch seam, with painter's tape to guide my cut.

Close-up of the pinch seam. The plastic on mine is the tail end of some Bushwacker body armor. That's toast, too. If you run your fingers along the back side of the pinch seam, you'll feel a channel. If you cut into the channel, you'll expose a gap in the sheets of metal that will need to be filled with JB Weld and sanded before you rustproof and paint the cut edges of the seam. In my case, I didn't feel it was necessary to make that deep of a cut, though I still used some JB Weld. You'll see why in a few.

Post-surgery. Man, my hands are steady. Like stone. :D Make sure you don't goof around with the cut; start it, set the blade and let er rip. If you stop and start a bunch, or hesitate, you'll end up with a zig-zag. I don't think it took a full minute to lop the whole corner off.

Tight shot of the cut. Notice the separated strips of sheet metal. That's because, when you cut off the corner of the pinch seam, you're cutting off the end-most spot-weld that holds the various metal panels together. But fear not, there are welds all along the bottom of your pinch seam. The Jeep body won't come flying off next time you peg the speedometer on the freeway. Hopefully. :)
Great write up! I was wondering if I would need to do this when I upgrade. Didn't know just how much work would be involved. Now I do!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
These are a couple of sheet-metal pieces that came off when I cut the pinch seam on the other side of my Jeep. That cut wasn't quite as good as my first one, so I had to trim a little extra on a second run. :whistling: I laid down a sheet of plastic to catch stuff like this, so I wouldn't back outta my garage after the fact and have one of these pesky little bastards slice up my tire.
View attachment 96345

This is how much I took off. About 1-1/2" total at the widest part of the corner. As I said, if I'd cut off much more, I would have exposed a channel that I woulda had to fill with JB Weld. As it was, I used a putty knife to fill the tiny gaps in picture #5 in the post above with JB Weld. That's just how I roll.
View attachment 96346

It'll take the JB Weld about 6 hours to dry to the point where I can sand it, and start applying the rustproofing. I'll post some final photos when it's all done, so y'all can see what it looks like. :thumb:

The whole process that I've shown you so far took 45 minutes, from laying out the tools to putting them away. While I was working, the whiteout moved on. Now it's just pretty out.

Still hoping for a Biblical, shut-down-the-city snow before winter's over, though. :D
 

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Wow, no idea you were that close to them. Scratched my shoulder on that messing around in wheel well during lift install. I remember thinking it looked like a utility knife. Good work
 

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:thumb: Great stuff KB, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't even ever recall seeing mine. I might cut em and just throw a few tack welds on. But that JB weld is amazing stuff isn't it :thumb: love it.
I've seen gaps much smaller between tire and pinch seam than mine, where guys didn't cut it. But I've also read a number of threads where people said, man, sliced my tire while aired down today, wish I'd cut my pinch seam!

Little work vs @ $500 for two new tires. Kind've a no-brainer.

You're right about the JB Weld. The stuff rocks. Some guys use bondo, but that was't gonna get it done, in my mind. Once I'm finished sanding, rustproofing and painting the edge of the seam, it should look pretty good. :thumb:
 

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The pinch seam is most dangerous when you air down. Crossing an obstacle – a log, a rock, a trench – will bulge your aired-down tire. That's where many peeps run into trouble with the pinch seams.
...................

Great Operating Procedure, cannot wait to see the additions :thumb:

Let me test my memory here :angel: Yesterday I was "rare", today I am a "peep" :whistling:

Not going to ask what a "peep" is :surrender:

Where is Daggo:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Let me test my memory here :angel: Yesterday I was "rare", today I am a "peep" :whistling:

Not going to ask what a "peep" is :surrender:
Where is Daggo:confused:
"Peeps" = people.

Daggo's a peep, same as you and I and every other hominid on the planet. :D
 

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Where are you in Cheeseheadland wolf?

I'll pay you $50 to cut and dress mine for me :D

I'll throw in another $50 to do my rubirails too!

(I don't have a sawzall or a garage...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Where are you in Cheeseheadland wolf?

I'll pay you $50 to cut and dress mine for me :D

I'll throw in another $50 to do my rubirails too!

(I don't have a sawzall or a garage...)

:rofl:

Trimming the pinch seam is easy, but the Rubi rails are a little more involved. You gotta take em off, then measure, cut, sand, rustproof and paint em.

Here's a link that gives you an idea of what's involved:

Rear Pinch Seam / Rubicon Rail End Cap Trim

I've got no problem loaning you tools or helping you out, but I don't rent out my garage, and I wouldn't take $$ for helping a fellow Jeeper. Unless Roseann Barr got her Rubi stuck in a ditch...then, all bets are off. :D

I'm 5 hours from the Twin Cities, when the weather's good. And I travel quite a bit, sometimes on the spur of the moment. My suggestion would be to find some local Jeepers to help you out for the price of some food & beer. Or beer & more beer.

Before I bought my Jeep, I had several offers from local peeps to help me out with tools, installs, etc. But I decided that I wanted to learn how to do everything that I could humanly do to my own Jeep, myself.

Part of the fun in owning a Wrangler, IMO. :thumb:
 

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Book marked:thumb: I'm going to have to do mine before long.
 

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Great write up. Thanks. I have subscribed this thread.
 

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Yea!

.... the Wolfman does rock:thumb:

And if you read his threads, has an extremely large vocabulary :rofl::rofl:

Yes! I am bookmarking this thread for future use:hide:
 

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Decided..........

.............. retiring at the end of the month (Feb), so this task is now on the top of my list, using the Wolfman's instructions found here :thumb:

Not real sure what Mod's I may do to the Jeep next, but this step will be in the right direction, regardless. I have also ordered the exhaust extensions, just as a step for future possibilities:whistling:
 

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when i did mine, i swung by my body shop and had them re-spot weld the pinch seam,,, he also went as far as filling it with seam filler, took him all of 30 minutes and the cost was 20 bucks,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Okay, last few photos.

First one's of the dried JB Weld filling the gaps between the sheet metal, before I sanded it down.
View attachment 96549

Last two are of the (almost) finished product. So far I've hit it with 2 coats of rust-proofing. Gonna do one more, then a triple coat of high gloss black enamel, and re-attach the side armor. And that's pretty much it. :thumb:

View attachment 96550

View attachment 96551
 

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I did this yesterday while I was Installing my New Bushwhackers Flat fender :dance: . I was having problems with it rubbing on my 35's and on my stock fender.

yours looks a little cleaner I was using a Angle grinder with a 7" metal grinding blade.
 

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