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Those are RCV shafts, I have a buddy that runs them in a v8 yj and he beats on it.....Hard. They haven't broke yet.
 

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Does anyone have any experience with changing out the (stock) front axles to these new CV joints style? I've found this listing on eBay:

Jeep Wrangler TJ Dana 30 CV 4340 300M Front Axle Kit | eBay

I'm going to rip down my front end for a full rework, not sure if I could justify the cost of these.
i have never had luck with that type of joint.
the boots are far too easy to rip or pop off and ruin everything inside when they become contaminated..

every car or truck i have owned with that type, has had their joints replaced because of failure.
 

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i have never had luck with that type of joint.
the boots are far too easy to rip or pop off and ruin everything inside when they become contaminated..

every car or truck i have owned with that type, has had their joints replaced because of failure.

Do your homework, rcv shafts are really strong. They are not your average cv shaft found in a honda. Hence the spendy price.
 

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If I were going to drop a thousand bucks on upgrading my front axle, I'd put it toward a better axle than the dana 30. Just saying.
 

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If I were going to drop a thousand bucks on upgrading my front axle, I'd put it toward a better axle than the dana 30. Just saying.
To answer your question about installing them, the knuckles need to be removed and machine a bigger diameter for the "boot" to fit and CV to fit. They usually come with a template for getting the knuckles machined.

well put :thumb: I myself wouldn't dump $1000 into a D30, your better off taking that $1000 and put it towards a D44

What tires or wheeling do you plan on doing that you think the RCV's are needed???
 

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damn, so you have to fabricate a fitment? damn....i wanna change my 93 but from the looks these won't fit less i remove the inner extension shaft as well. But then how in the hell would i switch in and out of 4x4?

so in other words my front end will tech be engaged to spin both from tires together all the time with this kit because of loosing the vacuum correct? and only when i throw the shifter will the transfer case engage the shaft to to be forced into spinning in order to be 4x4? Because from the looks (while i have my tranny down and an axle out) the front drive shaft will also spin together with the front end with this kit regardless of being in 2 or 4xd, and ONLY be forced spin while in 4x4.

if anyone looks at the u joints section ( of the axle),. it can be split away from the shaft section altogether. So why does no one make a CV kit just to be pressed back onto the oem shaft splines instead of making a whole to do about replacing everything? See the splines in the picture.



BUT i did not take out my extension on the right side yet, and or my left side axle. IS the inner shafts a 27 count spline? Because the small right side shaft that goes into the extention is huge 15 count splines. If someone can answer that question would save me the trouble of taking it off and finding out whether or not to just order some Cherokee cv axles that will fit just as good.
 

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If I were going to drop a thousand bucks on upgrading my front axle, I'd put it toward a better axle than the dana 30. Just saying.
True, but what if all you want to run is 35's in a very reliable fashion, which an upgraded HP30 is perfect for, then it makes some sense. If you never want to worry about a u-joint breaking (which can cause much more damage to the knuckle, ball joints and inner C's), that's the way to go. There's another more economical product on the horizon but it hasn't been released yet.
 

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For that much you can have a 60 :)
We must have different requirements of what we want out of a front axle and the steering. $985 would pay for the knuckles, steering linkage and rod ends.

Again, there's no reason to not build a HP30 and run it the way you want to run it if you're sticking with 35's or smaller. If the cost to dismiss all shaft and joint breakages is worth $985 to you, then go for it. 300M material is very, very expensive and you won't find anyone that owns RCV's regretting it. A 60 doesn't exactly enter into that equation.
 

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B3.3 Cummins on 37's and a Ford 5.0 on a LP30 with stock shafts on 33's.....both are doing fine.

Again.....you said you could build a 60 for $985. It'd still be incomplete and sitting on jack stands so that doesn't really pertain to the discussion. If you want to run 37"+ tires, a 60 is a nice option. It'll take the axle + several thousand dollars worth of stuff to run those tires reliably.
 

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AGAIN.......

We must have different requirements of what we want out of a front axle and the steering. $985 would pay for the knuckles, steering linkage and rod ends.
I've looked at your build thread.......what else do you want me to say about it?

I do and always will drive my rig to the trail. When I build a 60, it + the other costs to run the tires = much, much more than the cost of RCV shafts. On that note, I'll run D60 RCV shafts. Seen the cost of those?

As for your 250 horse comment, you said anything but the stock motor. Those are not stock motors, put out more TQ than the stock motor, and we're talking about a D30 (one on 37's). Not much margin for error over a 4.0's output anyway. Both are very valid.
 

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Yeah I did lol....that's half of what I have in my entire jeep right now. I guess there's an ass for every saddle. Stock 60 stuff has been holding up to my lead foot for 13 years....the only thing I change is the stub axles.

A 250 horse 5.0 is only what? 50 horse more than a 4.0 maybe....nothing a few minor mods to a stocker won't fix. By "other" than stock I should have said a modified powerplant capable of 300+, that was my fault for not being more specific. Although I have seen lots of hp30's break under the fire breathing 2.5. They just dont like to be bounced up and down much :(
 

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Ibuildembig said:
Yeah I did lol....that's half of what I have in my entire jeep right now. I guess there's an ass for every saddle. Stock 60 stuff has been holding up to my lead foot for 13 years....the only thing I change is the stub axles.

A 250 horse 5.0 is only what? 50 horse more than a 4.0 maybe....nothing a few minor mods to a stocker won't fix. By "other" than stock I should have said a modified powerplant capable of 300+, that was my fault for not being more specific. Although I have seen lots of hp30's break under the fire breathing 2.5. They just dont like to be bounced up and down much :(
Nothing like a truss wont handle. Ive really never understood the whole higher hp need in a rock rig. Then again, I dont touch the floor with the skinny pedal often offroad.
 

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Then again, I dont touch the floor with the skinny pedal often offroad.
Guess it depends on what they are doin...in theory, if it was strictly a crawler, you could probably run the smallest 4 banger you could find with the right gears. One of the guys I know that owns a shop where I live has a crawler built out of a Sami...runnin the stock 1.9L with a regeared TC (and possibly a doubler), and it does the job.

But if its built to go fast and climb, you are gonna need something else...look at the KOH rigs for instance.
 
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