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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright so heres my deal. Im runnin 33's on the Sport I bought 2 months ago. When I got it she was already lifted about 4" so the tires clear fine. Only problem is one of the several previous owners has geared the axles far too low for the tire size, I believe it has 4.88's. So now Im going to be trading my cousin for his 35's since he is selling his truck anyway and he doesnt care. Only thing Im concerned about is the ability of the Dana 35 to hold up to the larger tires. It wouldnt be too big a deal but it has been locked up with a Detroit locker as well. It does great now with the 33's and locker off road but highway speed is killing me. Luckly, it got the Super 35 kit so it also has Alloy 30 spline shafts in it. Now my only question is, can that kit hold up to 35's with it being locked and all?? I realize the new shafts are pretty strong compared to stock and Im pretty easy on my skinny pedal but what are my chances of breakin a shaft. I dont really have the $$ to be carrying trail spare 30 spline shafts with me. With bigger tires I should gain back a little more of my top end which I badly need though. Does anyone have any experience with this kinda situation :confused:
 

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Not if.....when.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So your basically sayin Im screwd?? Even if Im careful its still gonna snap the shafts?
 

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I'm going to be putting on 33s when I get my lift. I was told to re-gear to 4:56 which would give me the same ratio as the Rubicon with 31s and 4:11 gears. Then I was warned to upgrade the axles because the D35 wouldn't hold long to serious abuse. The risk is even greater with 35s. IDK for sure, just from what I've been told you'll snap the axles.
 

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I would think with some care you should be fine with the super 35 kit. Everyone says the 35 will break regardless, but that can't be the case or so many wouldn't have had them for so many years. If handled right and not abused with the super 35 kit you should be fine. I am definitely not saying anyone here is wrong, on some jeeps and some setups it is when not if, but that's not every single case!!
 

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truss that dana 35 and you should be OK. of course you can still break it but just take it easy and dont bounce the jeep.
 

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Well mine will be on 31's maybe up to 32's some day but all my trails will be light to moderate. and i do need to get a locker but my part guy is on vacation this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I planned on a truss already. I want it to be as strong as I can get it becuase I dont really want to do an axle swap right now. I know a guy who ran 35's on the 35 kit and he hasnt had any problems at all. He is just careful not to bounce it but I knew that from watchin others break shafts that way. Its hard sometimes havin a stick and all not to bounce it a tid before I get the clutch in but Im doin pretty well at avoiding it. I ran 33's on a stock D35 for 2 years on my ZJ without breaking anyhting and I wheeled the piss out of it. SO I think I can do this, I jsut wasnt sure if anyone had any experience here with it. Thanks for the replys though.
 

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Guys have varying degrees of success with the 35c in the rear of Jeeps, some hold up for years crawiling on the rocks, and I have seen them break driving through a mud puddle in a parking lot (actually happened). If you have a light/steady right foot, you should be okay for the immediate future, but you should start saving for that axle swap now, as the clock is ticking...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thats probably what I'll do. Dana 60 sounds like a good swap to me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmmm...Then when the time comes I'll sell my super 35 kit and gears and get a little of my $$ back to put into the new axle. Oh the possibilities. I think Im gonna do the D60 with an OX locker and Rockcrusher or the cast iron diff guards and 4.88's to match the front again.
 

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Hmmm...Then when the time comes I'll sell my super 35 kit and gears and get a little of my $$ back to put into the new axle. Oh the possibilities. I think Im gonna do the D60 with an OX locker and Rockcrusher or the cast iron diff guards and 4.88's to match the front again.
THAT'S what I'm talkin' 'bout!!!!:D :cool:
 

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Everyone I've know with 35's and the Super 35 kit do fine. I plan to do the Super 35 with my 33's and maybe trussing as well. Like they said, don't bounce it. I never understood how some guys think it's so cool and is the best way to get over something. Of course, you find them later on the trail with a log strapped to the side of their jeep. Of course, now you can get the floating axles for the 35 and they are supposed to be stronger also. Plus, you don't loose your wheel.
 

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the super 35 should hold okay. your at the upper end with the 35's/detroit and the 4.88's though, thus if debating between hitting the gas one more time or getting winched, go the winch route.
 

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Guys have varying degrees of success with the 35c in the rear of Jeeps, some hold up for years crawiling on the rocks, and I have seen them break driving through a mud puddle in a parking lot (actually happened). If you have a light/steady right foot, you should be okay for the immediate future, but you should start saving for that axle swap now, as the clock is ticking...
he doesn't have a 35c he has a super 35.My own experience has been blowing a spider gear through the front case of a gm 12 bolt open on bfg a/t 35's on the street. The more extreme you go the more extreme your breakage. But evenJerry Bransford has said good things about the super 35.
 

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he doesn't have a 35c he has a super 35.My own experience has been blowing a spider gear through the front case of a gm 12 bolt open on bfg a/t 35's on the street. The more extreme you go the more extreme your breakage. But evenJerry Bransford has said good things about the super 35.
I understand that the c-clips are eliminated with the Super 35 clip, but the "c" in 35c stands for custom, not c-clip, so technically he still has a 35c. I also know that alloy shafts are stronger than stock, but I also know that I have see the Super 35 kits fall apart with 33" tires on them (not so much fall apart as break under stress, but you get the idea). If trussed, this axle lasts longer because the housing flexes less, but this will more than likely still be the weak point in the driveline. As stated above, he should be fine, but if it were me, I would start saving for an axle swap.
 
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