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Discussion Starter #1
So I broke my driver side axle at rausch over the weekend. No big deal, but I am curious about the limits of a 30. If I sleeve it and go with chromolly axles, what would the limits be? Keep in mind I am locked. Wondering at what point it would break with about 300hp and an abusive driver. What are the largest tires you all think it could take?

The reason I ask is because I have about $800 in my 30 between my high steer and locker, and was considering a sleeve kit and the upgraded axles. I would rather go with a stronger front axle, but building this one up would be easier.
 

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So I broke my driver side axle at rausch over the weekend. No big deal, but I am curious about the limits of a 30. If I sleeve it and go with chromolly axles, what would the limits be? Keep in mind I am locked. Wondering at what point it would break with about 300hp and an abusive driver. What are the largest tires you all think it could take?

The reason I ask is because I have about $800 in my 30 between my high steer and locker, and was considering a sleeve kit and the upgraded axles. I would rather go with a stronger front axle, but building this one up would be easier.
Abusive driver, I'd say 33" tires with chromally shafts, sleeved, and trussed. The weak point after all that would be the ring and pinion, but since you have a lunchbox locker, that becomes your weak point. If you used grizzly yukon gears, a stronger locker, and did all the other stuff. I'd say you can run 37's if you picked your lines carefully and didn't drive abusively.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I beat the living crap out of it now and have for a couple years with a locker and 33's.

Yukon also told me that if I break the locker itself they replace it for free.
 

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Maybe my idea of abusive is worse than yours haha, I've destroyed many axles including a dana 30 on my old cherokee. Trusses and sleeves just prevent the tubes from bending or breaking, not protection for the actual moving parts that are being abused by 300hp. Your u-joints or locker should be the first thing to break with chromally shafts and bigger tires tough.

Personally, I like the shafts being the weakest part of my front axle. Easy trail fix compared to a destroyed ring and pinion...
 

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He's got a 2.5L...divide 300hp by 3 (maybe 4!) and you'll be in the ballpark :)
I went through my pictures and found my broken 30 from my xj, this was with a 2.5l, 33's, chromally shafts, and an ox locker
 

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Overkill, what were you doing when it broke? How did it break? Any pictures?

I just picked up an Alloy USA kit (today) for my Dana 30, and I'm planning on (carefully) running 35s on it.

Here's my thread asking about how to strengthen a Dana 30:

Planning for 35s - Dana 30 questions

Also, here's a good thread on a truss for the Dana 30.

sua-hpd30-axle-truss-follow-along
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I went through my pictures and found my broken 30 from my xj, this was with a 2.5l, 33's, chromally shafts, and an ox locker
Sorry for some wrong info lol. After looking at the folder I had this in I realized that this was my buddy's cj7. So 4.2l, 33's, chromally shafts, and detroit locker.... Good example about the weak ring and pinion though
 

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Discussion Starter #9
He's got a 2.5L...divide 300hp by 3 (maybe 4!) and you'll be in the ballpark :)
Off road right now I run in 4x4 low and floor it completely. Nothing stops the tires from spinning in low and I have had the jeep hanging on crap by the front wheels many times. The amount of power I get in low and the way I drive it is extremely hard on it. People would tell you you can't break two axles in 6 months with a 2.5 too. What's up with the hp talk anyway? Torque is what breaks them. That is why I am breaking parts in low
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry for some wrong info lol. After looking at the folder I had this in I realized that this was my buddy's cj7. So 4.2l, 33's, chromally shafts, and detroit locker.... Good example about the weak ring and pinion though
That answers my question. I already knew from prior research many say don't go over 33's on a 30 if you are locked. Was not 100% sure. I guess I will sell this 30 after this season.

Btw, it happened on a long steep hill climb I had to floor it up. Snapped my snorkel in half on a tree as well up that hill. Then I didn't realize the axle was busted since it was the u joint and I went and climbed some rocks and snapped the main bolt on my rear leaf spring. Good times. Fortunately not more than $200 in damage.
 

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That answers my question. I already knew from prior research many say don't go over 33's on a 30 if you are locked. Was not 100% sure. I guess I will sell this 30 after this season.

Btw, it happened on a long steep hill climb I had to floor it up. Snapped my snorkel in half on a tree as well up that hill. Then I didn't realize the axle was busted since it was the u joint and I went and climbed some rocks and snapped the main bolt on my rear leaf spring. Good times. Fortunately not more than $200 in damage.
I found an old f150 sitting in someones yard collecting rust and offered to buy the axles from it, got a drivers side drop hi pinion dana 44 and ford 9" for $250. I want to go SOA and use them, but can't decide yet. Maybe that's what you'll need yourself.
 

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There are plenty of guys running 35's with the D30 locked. Most have stronger shafts, some just do the TJ shaft with larger u-joints. I would prefer chromalloy and if anything has to break I'd much rather it be the U-joint. Almost every shaft I have seen break is when a free spinning wheel suddenly finds traction. I know some feel full power is the only way to make it through, and in some cases it is, but many obstacles can be overcome with a smooth steady throttle avoiding breaking a tire loose.
 

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There are plenty of guys running 35's with the D30 locked. Most have stronger shafts, some just do the TJ shaft with larger u-joints. I would prefer chromalloy and if anything has to break I'd much rather it be the U-joint. Almost every shaft I have seen break is when a free spinning wheel suddenly finds traction. I know some feel full power is the only way to make it through, and in some cases it is, but many obstacles can be overcome with a smooth steady throttle avoiding breaking a tire loose.
You didn't read my first post did you? The OP wanted to know the max tire size with very abusive driving. So 33's would be my max for abuse. You can easily run 37's on a 30 by picking your lines and such
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I found an old f150 sitting in someones yard collecting rust and offered to buy the axles from it, got a drivers side drop hi pinion dana 44 and ford 9" for $250. I want to go SOA and use them, but can't decide yet. Maybe that's what you'll need yourself.

I am soa, but i won't be going full width even though I want to. If I am going to narrow an axle I would get 60's. In pa it is difficult though since tires have to be covered.

Also my 95 has the larger u joints. I only buy Spicer, but they still break.
 

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I am soa, but i won't be going full width even though I want to. If I am going to narrow an axle I would get 60's. In pa it is difficult though since tires have to be covered.

Also my 95 has the larger u joints. I only buy Spicer, but they still break.
If you play on rocks like I do, don't put corporate 60's on, you'll lose so much clearance you'll regret it. Don't find a rubicon front like I have either, it's not much stronger than a 30 (uses same ball joints/knuckles and shafts aren't that much bigger). In your situation, you should consider waggy 44's, the width won't matter because you can find wheels with a lot of back spacing to bring the tires in. They're also plenty strong for abuse with 37's and chromally shafts.
 

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You didn't read my first post did you? The OP wanted to know the max tire size with very abusive driving. So 33's would be my max for abuse. You can easily run 37's on a 30 by picking your lines and such
I read it, I just humbly disagree. I believe, by what I've seen on the trail that the HP D30 with Ten Factory or similar shafts, a solid locker (I prefer ARB or Detroit) and solid gears can take a lot of abuse with 35" tires, not so much with larger, though careful driving is possible with 37's.
 

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I read it, I just humbly disagree. I believe, by what I've seen on the trail that the HP D30 with Ten Factory or similar shafts, a solid locker (I prefer ARB or Detroit) and solid gears can take a lot of abuse with 35" tires, not so much with larger, though careful driving is possible with 37's.
Not arguing, but my experiences have been different. Especially were mud is concerned like in Pennsylvania were the op is from, you go up a muddy hill have a tire grab on some random rock and your axle breaks. No choice but to use a lot of throttle either in the first place.
 

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If you play on rocks like I do, don't put corporate 60's on, you'll lose so much clearance you'll regret it. Don't find a rubicon front like I have either, it's not much stronger than a 30 (uses same ball joints/knuckles and shafts aren't that much bigger). In your situation, you should consider waggy 44's, the width won't matter because you can find wheels with a lot of back spacing to bring the tires in. They're also plenty strong for abuse with 37's and chromally shafts.
Waggy 44's have really low pinion's, would become an issue in the front if you tried to rotate it up.

What about a JK 30 or 44?
 

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Waggy 44's have really low pinion's, would become an issue in the front if you tried to rotate it up.

What about a JK 30 or 44?
I forgot about that. When my friend and I put them in his yj, we cut the c's off the tubes and rewelded them on after we set the rotation right.

And I couldn't find JK axles near me for less than $2000 a pair and that's without lockers and with factory gears no less
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I forgot about that. When my friend and I put them in his yj, we cut the c's off the tubes and rewelded them on after we set the rotation right.

And I couldn't find JK axles near me for less than $2000 a pair and that's without lockers and with factory gears no less
Any Pics? How did you keep the alignment perfect? It seams it would be easier to rotate the whole tube in the diff.
 
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