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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
to upgrade my dana 30 in my 2012 jeep to a dana 44 what are the parts needed for this im not realy understanding what the dana 30/44 is and the parts in it thanks for any help.
 

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You need a new axle.

There are reinforcement options, but why do you want to do this? If you don't understand what's involved, it's hard to believe you really need to do it.
 

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You need to either upgrade your axles to chrome moly shafts. Or shop for a 44 in a salvage yard. Just so you know though, the old TJ style jeep rubicons boast dana 44 axles, however, there not true 44 axles. They have a dana 44 center section with dana 30 or 35 tubes( front or rear ) and knuckles with the upgraded shafts. They are effective however dont get bought into the extreme difference and ruggedness. There wasnt enough to brag. However the new JK series jeeps actually run true dana 44 axles complete, not half and half. Truthfully, unless you stupidly neglect your drivetrain, the stock setup with upgraded shafts and new ring and pinions is more then enough for the mud man and weekend warrior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i was wondering this because i remember reading somewere that you should use a dana 44 for a 35" tire
 

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The Bad Guy
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Plenty of people run 35's on D30's. Now if you are going to do major rock crawling or competive off roading you might have issues, but even then they can be re-enforced.
 

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Yep, no need to swap to a front D44 just to run 35s on your average JK wheeler/daily driver. Many, many run 35s on front D30s.
 

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Many guys run 37's with the D30 without C-gussets/Axle sleeves and Chromo axle Shafts...yes they are taking a chance but if you are gentle on the skinny pedal they should last! The real difference between the D44 & D30 axles is the Ring/pinion size is larger on the D44.
 

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Hey guys - great to hear about 35's running on D30's. I am installing new wheels (17") on Duratrac 35's. Additionally, I'm adding the Rancho RS9000XLs for adjustment when wanted. My 2008 JK has a 2.5" lift and is my DD. I don't take her rock-crawling, but do take her through mild hills, mud, snow, and some sand. Is there anything esle that I may need to look at to upgrade or reinforce?

Thanks,
Chris
 

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I agree with most. The way I see it is with 35's and D30 is:

DD and mild trail - Gussets

Moderate trail - Gusset and Sleeve the axles

Harder trails/Easy to Moderate Rock Crawling - Gusset/Sleeves and Chromoly axle Shafts

Hard Rock Crawling - Replace axles to D44 or better depending on how extreme
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i want to be doing harder trails/ not too much rock crawling but i want more than enough strength for security i want to order from quadratec but what are some good gusset/sleeves/chromoly axle shafts that they sell that will fit my 2012 d30 with 3.73 gears also if they have any kits that sells it all please post links because you say this and ive looked for it but im a newby so i dont know whats what.
 

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i'd like to say, if youre blowing up a dana 30, chances are you will do the same with a 44. 44's arent that strong and for rock crawling a 60 is highly recommended.
 

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Honestly, I almost can't believe somebody who doesn't already know a lot of this actually needs it.

That's not an insult, it's just being realistic. Have you wheeled your jeep? Where? Have you broken anything? What makes you think you're going to need all this gear that you don't know where to find, what it does, or how it's installed?

There is literally almost NO END to all the "upgrades" you can get for a jeep. It's a WRANGLER. There are entire companies that do nothing but sell upgrades for it.

Just because somebody makes something that is better than what you have doesn't mean you actually need what you have to be better.

You're talking about spending thousands of dollars here to gain strength that only a small fraction of jeepers actually need. And usually the ones that need it, know they need it. Just sayin' . . . think carefully about whether you need to do any of this beyond maybe the c gussets.
 

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i agree with MTH.


rock crawling is a liberal term and its used quite commonly.

another philosophy i like to abide by,

don't replace something till it breaks.

obv replace it with something better, stronger, faster lala
 

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Bludger
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I have run my 35's for 3 years with the D30 up front. I do moderate to hard trails/rocks etc' have never had a problem. Last year I did the axle sleeve & gusset but have not upgraded the axle shafts yet ( so now I have jinxed myself I will probly be on here next week with replacing broken axle shaft build thread pshhh :cool:)
 

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Externally the difference between the JK D30 and D44 axle housings are the center housings, every thing else is the same to the point that they even have the same part #s. The housings will support the same tire sizes equally due to being identical in thickness of the tube walls and diameter of the pipe the tubes are made as well the Cs are identical with the same parts and ball joints and the rest.


The internals are a whole different story. Once something breaks internally on my D30, I will be upgraded my D30 with an ARB 30 spline carrier/locker and the superior axles with plans to eventually use the RCV axles, gussets, and outer sleeves! When finished with these mods, my D30 should be stronger than a stock D44 except the 30s smaller diameter ring gear. I don't hammer on mine and do not expect the ring gear to be a problem.

Yes the D30 is a lighter axle on the inside, but I don't believe it's the fragile piece of shit that everybody says that it is! However, if you have the almost 6 grand for a pro rock or find a used front D44 for a good price then go for it!
 
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