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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I'm aware of the upgrades that need to be done in order to properly run 35s; brakes, lifts, gearing, etc.

What I can't quite make a decision on is if the Dana 30 is up to the task.

Any time I mention potentially running 35s on my D30 to club members, they look at me like I am growing a second head. Yet, when I do my own research online, I find plenty of people running 35s and larger on their D30. If there is a single point of failure, it seems to be the U-joint 90% of the time.

So besides the U-joint, what is the weak link in the Dana 30? Does anyone have any reasonable, real world experience with their Dana 30 exploding because they had 35s on it?
 

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I don't have personal experience with this yet but have done a lot of reading. For 35s most people swap in a hp dana 30 and throw in some chromo shafts and call it a day. It holds up very well from what I've read and from what others will tell you. You could probably get away with the low pinion 30 if you just DD it or are very careful and maybe still throw some chromo shafts in. As far as bigger than 35s most people will tell you it won't work. 35s are about the biggest for a dana 30. High pinion or low pinion. Hopefully that helps and anyone please correct me if I'm wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I have researched the topic of the HPD30 for a while. I actually bought two of them, but had bad luck. One was bent and the other rusted badly, so I'm not itching to take a chance on another one. I could order one from East Coast Gear, but by the time it's built up it's only slightly cheaper than a G2 Dana 44, so that's not really a cost effective solution either.

It's difficult to substantiate how much stronger the high pinion Dana 30 actually is. There are dubious claims, but I see it as being a lot like "that guy" that added lots of performance goodies to his sports car and now estimates his horsepower to be over 9000. There's just no standardized tests for axles; at least none that we have access to.

I realize that from a design standpoint it's a little better, but it still has the same shafts, same carrier and same size ring and pinion. Plus, my understanding is that the HP D30 is only stronger when you're moving forwards. Abrupt momentum changes would reveal the same weak points with the R&P coast/drive side.

I'm just curious how much abuse a D30 can take if I throw in a 30 spline locker with some chromo shafts. Maybe some 4.56 gears just to keep more tooth contact in the R&P?

What breaks next?
 

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If you run 30 spline chromos then your weakest link would probably be u joints. If you run 30 spline chromos, and CTMs then maybe your R&P depending on how right it was setup. As a side note... I'd rather take a HPD30 over a LPD44 (G2 D44) in the front application.
 

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The HP30 is only slightly stronger due to the R&P using the drive side vs. coast. The HP30 is more desirable simply because the shaft is up away from the rocks compared to the LP30.

If you are planning difficult/extreme trails like Carnage Canyon or Penrose, then they will test the D30 to the max. If you go with chromo shafts, then I'd look at the Revolution Gear version with the 1350 U-joints. CTM's are nice but pricey for sure. If you do go with CTM's, then I would learn how to set up gears because I think your R7P would be next on the list to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The HP30 is only slightly stronger due to the R&P using the drive side vs. coast. The HP30 is more desirable simply because the shaft is up away from the rocks compared to the LP30.

If you are planning difficult/extreme trails like Carnage Canyon or Penrose, then they will test the D30 to the max. If you go with chromo shafts, then I'd look at the Revolution Gear version with the 1350 U-joints. CTM's are nice but pricey for sure. If you do go with CTM's, then I would learn how to set up gears because I think your R7P would be next on the list to fail.
I'm not against the HP D30. I just haven't had good luck in finding a nice one.

Trail-wise, I'm in Colorado, so I have access to a lot of technical trails. But I'm pretty new to the hobby so my nerves tend to give out pretty quick. I might reevaluate in a few years, but it sounds like even my LP D30 will be fine for my abilities currently.
 

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Broke the ring gear in my low pinion D30 with 27 spline chromoly shafts and an Aussie locker. I ordered a Currie rock jock high pinion 44 a few weeks ago as a replacement.
 

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I'm not against the HP D30. I just haven't had good luck in finding a nice one.

Trail-wise, I'm in Colorado, so I have access to a lot of technical trails. But I'm pretty new to the hobby so my nerves tend to give out pretty quick. I might reevaluate in a few years, but it sounds like even my LP D30 will be fine for my abilities currently.
The main things to consider when going to a bigger axle is strength and clearance. IMHO it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to go to tons if you are going to stay on 35" tires. It also doesn't make sense to stay with a D30 if you are going to 40's. There has to be some sort of balance to achieve your desired goals based on how you wheel. Don't let guys in your group talk you into D60's if you are staying with 33's or 35's.

As far as your wheeling experience, it will build quickly in Colorado. I went from mild to wild in just a couple of seasons.
 
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