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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone running the Ultimate Dana 60s or any other D60s in there jeeps?

I have a Rubicon that I just lifted and am looking to beef up my front axle. I don't really want to drop a bunch of money into my stock axle housing. I was going to go with a ProRock 44 or Tera 44 but I would still need to regear and upgrade my rear shafts. I really like the idea of just skipping all that and just jumping head first into 60s and the ultimate series seems like the best value.

However, I do have some questions and would like to hear from others that have already gone down this route.

 

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what do you intend to do with the Jeep? Do you plan on running 40s? dropping 13K or so on D60 axles and then you need new wheels due to the bolt pattern, not to mention all the extra stuff that comes along with them like lift adequate to fit those giant tires, all the necessary add ons like drive shafts, etc. etc. etc. is hardly the "best value" unless you are a very serious off-roader. Doing D60s right runs about 25-30K. If you just want 35s, you are much better off just upgrading the axles you have
 

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My question, How many people have honestly even broke/damaged even the d30. I see so many axle threads but never once have I seen "I just bent my D30 and need to upgrade thread"
 

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My question, How many people have honestly even broke/damaged even the d30. I see so many axle threads but never once have I seen "I just bent my D30 and need to upgrade thread"
I did! I bent the entire housing and the axle on the passenger side when a Toyota Tundra slammed into the front tire as it pulled outta Wal Mart! LOL:beerdrinking:
 

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Anyone running the Ultimate Dana 60s or any other D60s in there jeeps?

I have a Rubicon that I just lifted and am looking to beef up my front axle. I don't really want to drop a bunch of money into my stock axle housing. I was going to go with a ProRock 44 or Tera 44 but I would still need to regear and upgrade my rear shafts. I really like the idea of just skipping all that and just jumping head first into 60s and the ultimate series seems like the best value.

However, I do have some questions and would like to hear from others that have already gone down this route.

Four Wheeler did a build up OEM Dana 60 vs Pro Rock.

Rebuilt Dana Sixty Vs. Dynatrac 60 - Four Wheeler Magazine

If you can do your own work, the OEM will save you a couple thousand. I have a Dana 60 HP KingPin axle from an F350 under mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tires: I currently run 37" STT Pros
Uses: I plan on taking cross country wheeling trips. Reliability is very important to me. Also, I wheel about twice a month locally. SMORR, Kansas Rocks, Disney OK, and so on. While maybe not as "hard core" as some, I do wheel a lot.
Lift: I have a Metal Cloak 3.5" gamechanger with rocksport shocks.
I know I will need 8 on 6.5 but am not sure about the back spacing. I realize I will need 1350 drive shafts.

My thought process with the 60s is that they are not going to leave me stranded. Locking hubs in the front means if I break shaft I can unlock and limp home. Full float in the rear means I am way less likely to break to start with. Yes, it cost a lot up front. However, they are bolt in upgrades and I can sell off my stock axles to recoup some of the funds. I don't plan on ever selling this Jeep. I did that twice before and regretted it both times. I am thinking long term. Also, upgrading axles so that I can drive the one Jeep all over is far cheaper overall compared to buying a truck and trailing it all over.

If I were to upgrade my stock axle I would be doing a truss, shafts, gears, and labor. That all cost money as well and it would still be weaker and would still have an improper pinion angle.

Going with a ProRock or Terra 44 solves the pinon angle and gains a lot of strength but costs around $4,500 or more. Then add in brakes, and matching gears for the rear and we are already getting over the 6K mark. Still a lot cheaper than the 60s. So thats where some of the debate comes in.
 
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Tires: I currently run 37" STT Pros
Uses: I plan on taking cross country wheeling trips. Reliability is very important to me. Also, I wheel about twice a month locally. SMORR, Kansas Rocks, Disney OK, and so on. While maybe not as "hard core" as some, I do wheel a lot.
Lift: I have a Metal Cloak 3.5" gamechanger with rocksport shocks.
I know I will need 8 on 6.5 but am not sure about the back spacing. I realize I will need 1350 drive shafts.

My thought process with the 60s is that they are not going to leave me stranded. Locking hubs in the front means if I break shaft I can unlock and limp home. Full float in the rear means I am way less likely to break to start with. Yes, it cost a lot up front. However, they are bolt in upgrades and I can sell off my stock axles to recoup some of the funds. I don't plan on ever selling this Jeep. I did that twice before and regretted it both times. I am thinking long term. Also, upgrading axles so that I can drive the one Jeep all over is far cheaper overall compared to buying a truck and trailing it all over.

If I were to upgrade my stock axle I would be doing a truss, shafts, gears, and labor. That all cost money as well and it would still be weaker and would still have an improper pinion angle.

Going with a ProRock or Terra 44 solves the pinon angle and gains a lot of strength but costs around $4,500 or more. Then add in brakes, and matching gears for the rear and we are already getting over the 6K mark. Still a lot cheaper than the 60s. So thats where some of the debate comes in.

There are options like the Tera 60s and set them up how you want them. They also come with stock wheel pattern. There are a lot of different options you can do. We also have Dynatrac and Currie as options. Pm or email us and we can help you out. Or you can give us a call at the shop tomorrow. Thanks.

-JP
 

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Tires: I currently run 37" STT Pros
Uses: I plan on taking cross country wheeling trips. Reliability is very important to me. Also, I wheel about twice a month locally. SMORR, Kansas Rocks, Disney OK, and so on. While maybe not as "hard core" as some, I do wheel a lot.
Lift: I have a Metal Cloak 3.5" gamechanger with rocksport shocks.
I know I will need 8 on 6.5 but am not sure about the back spacing. I realize I will need 1350 drive shafts.

My thought process with the 60s is that they are not going to leave me stranded. Locking hubs in the front means if I break shaft I can unlock and limp home. Full float in the rear means I am way less likely to break to start with. Yes, it cost a lot up front. However, they are bolt in upgrades and I can sell off my stock axles to recoup some of the funds. I don't plan on ever selling this Jeep. I did that twice before and regretted it both times. I am thinking long term. Also, upgrading axles so that I can drive the one Jeep all over is far cheaper overall compared to buying a truck and trailing it all over.

If I were to upgrade my stock axle I would be doing a truss, shafts, gears, and labor. That all cost money as well and it would still be weaker and would still have an improper pinion angle.

Going with a ProRock or Terra 44 solves the pinon angle and gains a lot of strength but costs around $4,500 or more. Then add in brakes, and matching gears for the rear and we are already getting over the 6K mark. Still a lot cheaper than the 60s. So thats where some of the debate comes in.
I can't comment on the wheeling part.
1. I am running 40x13.5x17 Coopers STT
2. I have MC game changer 3.5" with Fox 2.0 reservoirs - some body cutting, not much lift compared to others on 40"
3. I have 4.25 back spacing, but I rub, probably would go with less back spacing if doing again.
4. I am running dynatrac hard-core 60 package
 

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I have and will always toss around the idea of d60s. I run a 6" long arm with 37" toyos right now and have crawled very well for its street ability. Rides pretty stock dept a bit of flightyness steering wise at 70+
 

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My question, How many people have honestly even broke/damaged even the d30. I see so many axle threads but never once have I seen "I just bent my D30 and need to upgrade thread"
I bent my passenger rear axle flange and replaced all four axles with chronology G2 axles. This was on a d44 with 35 x 12.5 tires.
Gussets on the C's and tubes but no trusses. No more damage so far. Also regeared from 410to 513 at the same time. I wheel easy and still bent the axle.
 

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If you have the disposable income to buy new, you won't be disappointed. If you're willing to learn or can do the work yourself look at D60, 10.25 sterling. Artec makes weld on Trusses for them. The 05+ powerstroke axles have larger brakes, 35 spline outers and they are stronger than the earlier PS axles. An added benefit is the aftermarket is growing steadily!
 

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My question, How many people have honestly even broke/damaged even the d30. I see so many axle threads but never once have I seen "I just bent my D30 and need to upgrade thread"
Hey I blew up a ring gear in a 30 and went tons. @WatchThis! has gone through a few dana 44 ring gears iirc.

Unless you have either a ton of money laying around, or the jeep is a trail rig that gets beat on every time it goes out, you probably dont need tons.

Beating on a jeep and not worrying about breaking is a lot of fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I can't comment on the wheeling part.
1. I am running 40x13.5x17 Coopers STT
2. I have MC game changer 3.5" with Fox 2.0 reservoirs - some body cutting, not much lift compared to others on 40"
3. I have 4.25 back spacing, but I rub, probably would go with less back spacing if doing again.
4. I am running dynatrac hard-core 60 package

What are you rubbing on and what gear ratio are you running?
 

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What are you rubbing on and what gear ratio are you running?
I believe it is the frame. I am running a 6-speed. I also have a 4 speed atlas. I am running 5.13. I thought it was going to be enough because I run down a gear normally, but I could see going to 5.38.

I am heavy all around. I am running all steel skids, rockhard gas, transfer, oil, evap, rear bumper with carrier and muffler skid, and boatside sliders, poison spyder fenders and front bumper with skid.

I started a new thread with pictures of my clearance to the body panels
 

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Stitch what did you end up doing?
I am curious as I ended up putting 42" tires on modified 44's as I wasn't planning to go that big. So now I am kinda kicking myself and trying to decide if I upgrade now or after I break one. The reverse of your original situation. lol
 

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Stitch what did you end up doing?
I am curious as I ended up putting 42" tires on modified 44's as I wasn't planning to go that big. So now I am kinda kicking myself and trying to decide if I upgrade now or after I break one. The reverse of your original situation. lol
Upgrade now and sell what you have. At least that way you get some of your money back.
 
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