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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I installed a 2.5" RC series II budget boost a few days ago. i love it so far and the stance is awesome, great for the price paid. Im getting new tires added on tomorrow and then ill take the car for an alignment check later in the week.

However this morning when driving on the highway i hit a small bump and the car started jerking violently to either side (the body of the car more than the wheel) and the shaking didnt stop until i completely pulled over and stopped the vehicle, my assumption was that this is "death wobble" however all of the write ups say that death wobble occurs around 45mph whereas i was going around 70mph.

So ill be getting an alignment check, and tonight I'm going to check the torque on all my bolts to make sure thats alright, But i just wanted to ask, is this death wobble or does it sound like something else?

Otzy
 

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Sounds like DW. Did you loosen all the control arm and track bar bolts .. Then torque with the jeeps weight on the axles ?

It takes 10m to put a torque wrench on the front track bar. DO NOT continue to drive with DW. You will end up causing more damage.

How many miles on the factory ball joints ?

You should look into some kind of caster correction also. A set of front control arm drop brackets cost around $100. These will greatly improve handling of your jeep. Also tighten up the steering reducing the chance of DW.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
im torquing all of the suspension bolts to the standards with the weight on the axles now. I'm definitely not going to keep driving it unless i absolutely have to ahah, and the factory ball joints have 50k miles.

If i torque everything, change the tires, and then get an alignment and see it as a problem still ill look into front control arm drop brackets.

But would it be better to just get adjustable front lower CA's than the brackets if i plan to upgrade eventually anyways?
 

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http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/diagnosing-death-wobble-and-fixing-non-dw-shimmies-and-wobbles-78034.html

^^^Watch this video!!!!

What you are describing is DW. I experienced it one time. And it was identical to your description. Track Bar, mounting brackets, (egged shaped), from loose bolts, is the number one cause.

Also, as Kjeeper10 has already mentioned. You need some adjustable CA's to get some more positive caster back into your front axle!!!!!! That, will help to stabilize your steering, when hitting a bump. It will also help your steering wheel to return to center, when cornering!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys,

so i checked all of my bolts, it seems that the rear track bar (top side) wasn't torqued enough. Would this make sense to cause the wobble? I tightened it and drove around for 30 minutes and didn't feel any wobble? should i still be worried or would that be a probable cause.

It makes sense to me as i really altered no other steering components. The kit came with a rear track bar relocation kit dropping it about a half inch so i had to mess with that one.
 

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50k is a lot on the factory ball joints. Lift each tire about 3". Use a pry bar/shovel/2x4 to pry up on the each tire. The tire will move up/down and you'll here a clunk. Matter of fact, you'll see the separation where the boots meet the knuckle.
I can almost guarantee your factory ball joints will need to be replaced.

Like Bill said, DW is caused by loose/worn front end components.
If you want to better the rear geometry, replace the drop bracket you have with a raised bracket. TF makes one for $100

You're correct on front lower control arms. If you wheel and clearance is a concern, arms are the better way to go. If the jeep is primarily daily driven and/or clearance is not a worry, drop brackets will work for caster. They also lesson the control arms operating angle which smoothens the ride over bumps.

Watch the 2 vids in the link Dogger posted above. Planman shows how to check for worn front steering parts. In the video, the jeep had bad ball joints and a bad tie rod end.
 

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Think about replacing your ball joints wish some quality units from Synergy or Dyntrac (a couple others but not MOPAR). They are known to have a short lifespan. Loose track bar joints and worn ball joints are the two most common causes of DW.
 
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