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Discussion Starter #1
Alright jeepers,
I have a 2006 Jeep TJ, I just recently put a 2.5 inch lift kit on it about a week and a half ago and now I am experiencing the Death wobble. What are some suggestions I can do to correct it. I get vibrations as soon as I accelerate/push on the gas but, I get the death wobble around 40-60 and cant seem to go over 60 or I know for sure i'm getting the death wobble. I looked underneath at the front suspension checked everything for tightness and everything. There is a rubber dust boot that is popped that goes onto the pitman arm. could that possibly be it? (I am Fairly new to the Jeep world got my jeep about a little over 8 months ago and I am trying to learn everything I can so please take it easy on me). I did notice that my jeep pulls to the right side and is wearing super bad on the right side of my passanger side tire. I have not yet had an alignment because I am waiting to mount on new tires before I go up to a shop to have it aligned so I dont have to make more than 1 trip. My jeep kinda looks like this \...l could that also be an issue? I can't mount the tires until the new wheels come in. I also noticed that when I go over maybe about 40 that I will hear sort of a rattle coming from the driveshaft when I pull it out of gear. I cant quite explain how it sounds but it almost sounds like a rattle. so if you guys could help me out without having to break the bank to badly because I am a student in college that would be great. Thanks!
 

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You've got lots going on there. Share as much as you can about your vehicle. Lift type/brand/parts, wheel/tire size, recent suspension/steering work, etc. Also, a few pictures of your jeep from directly up front might help to see steering/suspension components. Include a pic of the rear drive shaft from the side too.
Then in the mean time, Google "dry steer test" to familiarize yourself with diy diagnostics.
 

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I'm thinking there is more going on here than just a few rattles and an alignment issue.
What is the Carfax of this Jeep? Before you acquired this Jeep did you do a full background check?
How many miles on it and what part of the country was it driven and under what conditions?
Etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So before I put on the Lift kit the jeep was running fine. Absolutely no rattles and was running super efficiently the only thing that I noticed is that it pulled maybe just a tad bit to the right but as soon as I put on the lift it pulls to the right significantly worse. I put on the Rough Country 2.5" extended coils and shocks lift kit that leveled the front with the rear. The size tire I have is 31x10.5 all terrains goodyear wrangler duratracs wheels 17" if that even matters. I will shortly try to upload a pic of the front suspension and driveshaft as soon as I can. I purchased the jeep with 160,000 miles on it this jeep has only been in Texas.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so I just did the dry steer test and everything is solid. I looked at the upper and lower control arms and the bushings are toast they are cracked. Do i need to completely replace the control arms or can i just replace the bushings?
 

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Okay so I just did the dry steer test and everything is solid. I looked at the upper and lower control arms and the bushings are toast they are cracked. Do i need to completely replace the control arms or can i just replace the bushings?
Do you still have the factory arms?
Yes, you can press out the bushings, but there are more horror stories about it than success stories. For not much more, you can replace the arms with factory replacements that have bushings already pressed in them. That's what I did and they worked just fine for me, until I realized the benefit of adjustable arms that have quality joints.
As far as the dry steer test, make sure you check both ends of the track bar closely. I'll even put my hand on the joint and close my eyes, helps me to detect even tiny movement. There should be no lateral movement in either end.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do you still have the factory arms?
Yes, you can press out the bushings, but there are more horror stories about it than success stories. For not much more, you can replace the arms with factory replacements that have bushings already pressed in them. That's what I did and they worked just fine for me, until I realized the benefit of adjustable arms that have quality joints.
As far as the dry steer test, make sure you check both ends of the track bar closely. I'll even put my hand on the joint and close my eyes, helps me to detect even tiny movement. There should be no lateral movement in either end.
I even did a dry steer test a second time just to make sure that I looked at everything thoroughly. Everything seems very stable. My control arms and track bars are all factory.. I'm deciding whether to get the adjustable control arms or adjustable track bars first. Any suggestions as to which type or even which ones to get first?
 

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I even did a dry steer test a second time just to make sure that I looked at everything thoroughly. Everything seems very stable. My control arms and track bars are all factory.. I'm deciding whether to get the adjustable control arms or adjustable track bars first. Any suggestions as to which type or even which ones to get first?
I have personal experience with two ends of the spectrum. My TJ got rough country when I first got it. Premature failure and a less than pleasant ride prompted a change.
I got my LJ, and went full metalcloak suspension. Incredibly pleased with the ride, handling, and the parts are beefy and durable.
I've since started changing to metalcloak on the TJ.
Trackbar-I'd suggest metalcloak. I've heard there are only 1 or 2 others that offer the appropriate clearance up front. My TJ is at 2.5" and the metalcloak trackbar centers the axle nicely but it's adjusted nearly all the way in. Definitely leaves room to grow if you go higher.
Control arms-love my metalcloak. Beef, extra clearance at the brackets, known durability in the joints. Factory arms have some flex engineered into them. If you go aftermarket arms, make sure you get them with quality, flexible joints, or you put extra strain on the mounting brackets. Currie, Rockrawler are some others to look at.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have personal experience with two ends of the spectrum. My TJ got rough country when I first got it. Premature failure and a less than pleasant ride prompted a change.
I got my LJ, and went full metalcloak suspension. Incredibly pleased with the ride, handling, and the parts are beefy and durable.
I've since started changing to metalcloak on the TJ.
Trackbar-I'd suggest metalcloak. I've heard there are only 1 or 2 others that offer the appropriate clearance up front. My TJ is at 2.5" and the metalcloak trackbar centers the axle nicely but it's adjusted nearly all the way in. Definitely leaves room to grow if you go higher.
Control arms-love my metalcloak. Beef, extra clearance at the brackets, known durability in the joints. Factory arms have some flex engineered into them. If you go aftermarket arms, make sure you get them with quality, flexible joints, or you put extra strain on the mounting brackets. Currie, Rockrawler are some others to look at.
Do you know where I can find the adjustable Metalcloack track bar?
 

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My jeep kinda looks like this \...l
Just caught this part of your original post. Elaborate on this, because it could be a bigger issue. Is this as viewed from the front, as in the top of the passenger tire is leaning out? That would be a camber issue, which is not adjustable on our jeeps. Before putting any $ into your jeep, focus on the alignment. The alignment doesn't change when you get new tires, so no reason to wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm planning on doing the alignment today.
What I mean by \...| is that my passenger side tires does have more wear on the outer side of the tire than the drivers side tire. To me you can notice a little bit of the tire facing outwards.
 

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I'm planning on doing the alignment today.
What I mean by \...| is that my passenger side tires does have more wear on the outer side of the tire than the drivers side tire. To me you can notice a little bit of the tire facing outwards.
Your toe in is off due to the lift. That is why your tire(s) are wearing on the outside. Get an alignment first....or do it yourself Here's a write up.

Also, check your transmission mount for separation.
 

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First and foremost, do the alignment and get your tires rotated/balanced along with replacing with factory MOOG upper/lower control arms. The bushings were probably on the way out and if the control arms were not loosened during the lift install and re-torqued properly, it likely contributed to the bushings failure and enhanced vibes aided with the lack of alignment/known uneven tire wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay I did the alignment today. Everything is set perfectly for the alignment. I still do have a little bit of the wobble but everything is significantly better. It's just that the vibrations are a little annoying.
 

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Okay I did the alignment today. Everything is set perfectly for the alignment. I still do have a little bit of the wobble but everything is significantly better. It's just that the vibrations are a little annoying.
Once you confirm the trans mount is in tact, you may consider adding a few washers to lower your skid plate. This will help ease the strain on the rear driveshaft, as result of the lift. After adding 2.5" springs on my TJ, I had to drop my skid about 3/4" to eliminate vibes. Only drop it as much as needed to eliminate vibration, and use washers first, don't waste money on a TC drop kit. Just make sure your bolts still have adequate thread engagement.
 
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