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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone speak for these things? Seems they would wear faster than a metal, but I never heard of Derlin? See that there are a few companies that sell them. Saw brass ones too. Wondering if one Derlin design is better than the other?
Does Jeep make a upgrade? (that would be crazy)
My jeep is only 2 1/2 years old. Just now noticing on of the rear doors is getting tough to swing. Door does not lift up, as expected (yes the nuts are out).
What would Jeep do for something like this under warranty? Crazy to understand how this design goes to 2018.

Peace
 

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One of the first things I did to my New England 2018 JKU that I bought with 21000 miles in the beginning of March. Delrin is very tough and seems like a near ideal material for this application.

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They're awesome. You probably won't find many/any complaints.

Delrin is perfect for this type of duty. Since switching, my doors come out so much easier. I'm in CT, so I have to worry about salt corrosion in there... except, not with delrin.

Jeep doesn't make an insert other than the one you already have and I highly doubt they'd compensate you, though they'd probably help get your doors off if your dealer is friendly.
 

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They are definitely and improvement and the longer you wait to swap out the OEM bushing, the more of a bitch it will be to do so.
 

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One of the first items I bought. I end up buying it out of necessity. I went to remove the doors for the first time two years ago and they wouldn't come off the factory one had corroded to the door and it was a Royal pain to get them off I'm talking two days project. I had to pre-soak them overnight just to get them off and then when I got the replacement parts I can barely get the old ones out. They had corroded to the Jeep basically welding to the Jeep...so yes worth it.
Eads
 

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Delrin is typically used as a bushing material in many applications. The reason there not that way from the factory is cost.
 

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Yes what he said above. Delrin is the material. I bought the 10 Amazon ones and they worked fine....who knows if I got Delrin or plastic.

I'm happy I did this process even though my doors were not corroded. (Yet)
 

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Delrin all the way. Installing the bushings was one of the first tasks I completed. My 10A’s doors were never taken off before I bought it. It took a lot of soaking and working to get the doors off. Removing the corroded factory bushings was worse! My son’s LJ had brass installed and we replaced them with delrin; it was a big improvement there too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the advise. But before I order:
How about the hood hinges? Though I have not specifically looked, I have seen zero about changing them. They look identical to the door hinges and if they are corroding in the same manner, even without the weight vertically on the pin, I`d have to imagine to be a problem eventually? No?
 

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The delrin make door removal easier. You're probably not going to pull the hood 20x/summer. I put the bushings in mine early on. They are way easier to work with than factory ones. As to delrin and wear, I make aircraft brakes. On the riveters a 30# part would spin 360° steel on delrin to fasten the hardware. This happens 200+ times a day, all 365 of the year. We would have to replace the delrin base about every 4 years. It's really dense and slick.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As far as my concerns for the hood hinge, I was referring to the hinge freezing up like my rear door. Once it starts to stiffen up, corrosion accelerates. Guess the hood is not a problem though? Just know if it ever froze up, it would be a hell of a lot tougher to get off than a frozen door!

Nice experience you have with the Delrin material. I bought the Quadratec ones, only because they mention Made In USA. Can`t imagine the legitimacy of some of the others on Amazon.

Thanks
 

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I bought the delrin bushings that come with the driver punch. If they start to show the least bit of wear I’ll replace them all again. They’re cheap and easy enough to do once those evil OEM zinc things have been removed. My hood hinges look perfect but I was thinking about painting them black to match my door hinges and if I do, I’ll remove and replace them at same time even if I never take my hood off again.
 

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I just ordered some from QT based on this thread. I don't take my doors off much and worry about the bushings corroding in place. This will be preventive maintenance.

Now that I'm retired and own my own place, I may put a pully system on the roof of my garage so that I can get the hardtop off by myself. Being single, it was never easy unless I had help. There may be more door off days in the future.

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OP - on of the issues with the steel bushings is that even though they rust, the periodic swing actions creates small grooves that permit it to continue to swing. But, when you try to remove the door, you are pulling against those grooves, and when the let go, be careful because the door will tend to pop off and may come out of your hands.

On the hood, the small groves really don't hinder the rotation of the hood hinge pins.
 

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They sounded like a great idea to me..... so I ordered some, waited for them to come in, and then took my doors off to install them, only to find that the previous owner was way ahead of me. I installed them in the lady-friends' JK, so they didn't all go to waste at least.
 

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Just did the Quadratec Delrin bushings this morning on my '14. I am going to consider myself extremely lucky - my doors lifted right off, no effort (bought it in '16 and never took the doors off). When I used the tool to tap out the old bushings that is all it took, little taps. There was just the start of some rust on the door pins and the inside of the bushings, but the outside of the bushing was corrosion free.

The only thing I can knock is the Qtec bushings have a bigger lip at the top, so the door sits maybe 2mm higher. The fit on the pin and in the hinge was perfect, just wish the lip was a touch smaller. Because of this the doors latch was no longer lining up in the middle with the catch, but it was an easy adjustment. I put some tape across the bottom and along the side of the catch, loosened the bolts, tapped the catch up just a little. The tape made sure I went straight up and didn't push it in or out. The Outlaw EZ guides really made lining up the pins much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
<<..... on of the issues with the steel bushings is that even though they rust, the periodic swing actions creates small grooves that permit it to continue to swing. But, when you try to remove the door, you are pulling against those grooves, and when the let go, be careful because the door will tend to pop off and may come out of your hands.
On the hood, the small groves really don't hinder the rotation of the hood hinge pins. >>

Makes sense rgreen. My goal, as others, fix it before needing a floor jack to lift the door. I have them lubed a bit and lifted slightly up and down, until new parts arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
<<The only thing I can knock is the Qtec bushings have a bigger lip at the top, so the door sits maybe 2mm higher. The fit on the pin and in the hinge was perfect, just wish the lip was a touch smaller.>>

Yeah, haven`t heard of this one before. Could it be the hinge alignment has the door pointing slightly up?
 

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<<The only thing I can knock is the Qtec bushings have a bigger lip at the top, so the door sits maybe 2mm higher. The fit on the pin and in the hinge was perfect, just wish the lip was a touch smaller.>>

Yeah, haven`t heard of this one before. Could it be the hinge alignment has the door pointing slightly up?
No chance the hinges moved, and the door alignment is fine.
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Doorpin.JPG
 
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