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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2015 JKU bought last summer. Today at 5050 miles the transfer case (I am assuming) blew up and won't drive the front.

Was driving on mild trails and all was going fine. Got to the gravel road and switched out of 4WD and into 2WD and drove to the next trail. At the next trail switched back into 4WD as we approached (about 10mph pulled straight down into 4WD). No noises, nothing odd etc. But as soon as we started up the trail it became clear there was no front wheel drive. 4low/4hi doesn't make a difference. Doesn't grind or make any funny noises, dash indicators all appropriate, it just doesn't pull the front wheels. After getting out of the trail and heading out the gravel roads at about 10mph or so I tried pulling it into 4WD(Hi) and it's clear that there is NO synchro going on at all, it just grinds if you even try. If I stop completely it will go into 4WD but won't pull the front wheels.

Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did it suddenly get easier to move the range selector?
Not that I noticed. Other than not going into 4h when I am moving it feels "normal." And in 4l I am definitely getting the lower gearing, just only moving the rears.
 

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2015... warranty... now.
 

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As others have stated just use your warranty. It's entirely possible the sector is jacked up not allowing it to entirely engage.
 

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if something mechanically broke (gear, u-joint, etc.), you should really hear it - may just be a shift fork or something internal not engaging.

Let the dealer figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does the front driveshaft turn?
Not sure. Have to get it up on stands to see what is and what isn't working. I think I want to at least do that before going to the dealer - which I will do. Service manager at a great semi-local dealership said "bring it in, we'll take care of it" after seeing my post on a local FB Forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hoping to get to the dealership this week. It does not appear to be the transfer case. Up on jackstands the front drive shaft spins just fine when put into 4wd BUT neither front wheel moves. Both front wheels turn freely and turning one does not turn the other at all. I also do not feel any binding/grinding or hear any funny noises at all when turning the front wheels by hand. I am assuming something broken in the differential and/or axle(s).

Unplanned upgrade opportunity? Best axles out there? Time for a full electric locker in that front?
 

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yer Jeeps 1 year old??? and yer not thinking Jeep should just fix it under warranty ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yer Jeeps 1 year old??? and yer not thinking Jeep should just fix it under warranty ?
I totally think they should fix it under warranty and that is my hope. I am also looking at it as an upgrade possibility. It would be REALLY cool if the two of those things could go together!
 

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Hoping to get to the dealership this week. It does not appear to be the transfer case. Up on jackstands the front drive shaft spins just fine when put into 4wd BUT neither front wheel moves. Both front wheels turn freely and turning one does not turn the other at all. I also do not feel any binding/grinding or hear any funny noises at all when turning the front wheels by hand. I am assuming something broken in the differential and/or axle(s).

Unplanned upgrade opportunity? Best axles out there? Time for a full electric locker in that front?
I bet you broke an axle shaft. With it on stands, see if turning each front wheel also rotates the ujoint at the knuckle.

It's likely that it broke closer to the diff since that would make the least amount of noise. Any power coming through the driveshaft is getting lost through the open differential. You can open the housing and spin the wheels, If I am correct, one will spin the spider gears while the other side does nothing.

Thats really the only thing I can think of that wouldnt make any strange noises or leak fluid all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I bet you broke an axle shaft. With it on stands, see if turning each front wheel also rotates the ujoint at the knuckle.

It's likely that it broke closer to the diff since that would make the least amount of noise. Any power coming through the driveshaft is getting lost through the open differential. You can open the housing and spin the wheels, If I am correct, one will spin the spider gears while the other side does nothing.

Thats really the only thing I can think of that wouldnt make any strange noises or leak fluid all over the place.
Ifin I was a betting man I'd be betting along these lines. If one were to assume this was the case, when you pull the broken axle out won't it leave a piece inside there, real close to the diff. How would one get that piece out?

Again, back to assuming covered under warranty but wanting to upgrade. Any thoughts on asking the dealership to use warranty labor to install upgraded parts? Say, an elocker and chromoly axle kit...
 

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The front shaft should always turn on a JK. There is no axle disconnect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Ifin I was a betting man I'd be betting along these lines. If one were to assume this was the case, when you pull the broken axle out won't it leave a piece inside there, real close to the diff. How would one get that piece out?

Again, back to assuming covered under warranty but wanting to upgrade. Any thoughts on asking the dealership to use warranty labor to install upgraded parts? Say, an elocker and chromoly axle kit...
yea it would leave a part in the housing. Hopefully it is the short side. There are a few different techniques to get it out. You should be able to open the diff cover and push it out of the side gear and then use something long to grab it.

I have even seen people get them out on the trail by using a few car batteries and a long metal rod with a welding rod at the end. Run it into the axle tube and fuse it to the broken shaft.
 
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