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If you don't have a mechanical LSD in the rear diff (most jeeps don't), it won't affect the axle. I would use the 32 just to get off the trail. I would not run it on the street, like Guzzimoto said, the electronic stability control will go bezerkers and start clamping on the brakes, or pulling throttle, and doing ugly stuff because the wheel speed sensor will be reading an overspeed on that corner with the 32" and think it's spinning.
 

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Wow, 9” of lift, where are the pics? Don’t think I’ve ever seen that on a JK.

The accelerometer bypass switch mod will disable all the wheel speed sensors which I recommend as those things can malfunction at very inconvenient times.
 

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Yeah, the wheel spacers are no bueno. Not sure about the Glock box either.
 

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For 10 years I carried the spare on the back when I went wheeling. Safer then using an undersized spare.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I wonder if the OP meant lock box and 1.5” wheel spacer. Typos are easy to make on a phone
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Wow, 9” of lift, where are the pics? Don’t think I’ve ever seen that on a JK.

The accelerometer bypass switch mod will disable all the wheel speed sensors which I recommend as those things can malfunction at very inconvenient times.
My buddy's jk has a 6” lift with 37s and we sit the same height. These are 32s on mine. 37s gonna be beastmode🤟
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Hmmm... Not seeing 9" of lift there. Tell you what, let us help you know exactly what you have. Go get the measurement shown in this diagram and we can tell you what you actually have in the suspension. This is not meant to be a bad thing, but it will help you make decisions on your build. For 6" of lift, this measurement will be between 15.5" and 16"...

And based on the front bumper gap, it looks like 1" or 1.25" body lift... Anyone else see something different?

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If money is tight, running 40’s is a pretty terrible idea, but you do you.......


Jeep looks good now, but I’d put 35’s on it and call it a day. I wouldn’t even do that now, as those tires look brand new
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hmmm... Not seeing 9" of lift there. Tell you what, let us help you know exactly what you have. Go get the measurement shown in this diagram and we can tell you what you actually have in the suspension. This is not meant to be a bad thing, but it will help you make decisions on your build. For 6" of lift, this measurement will be between 15.5" and 16"...

And based on the front bumper gap, it looks like 1" or 1.25" body lift... Anyone else see something different?

View attachment 4447925
Ok you caught me. I was slightly exaggerating the massiveness of my inches 😊
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Oh. yeah. In that case. 35’s, and call it a day
 

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Ok, looks like a 3" TF spacer lift on top of a 4" Rough Country lift kit. Those are the stock body mounts so no body lift... You are running around 6"-7" of suspension lift without a drag link flip kit. Don't take this wrong, but that can't drive very well...

Did the shocks get changed when the 3" spacers went in? Did the bump stops get changed for the longer shocks? I can't imagine that suspension works properly...

Are the rear control arms adjustable? 37's are going to hit the rails... You need to start over on control arm lengths.
 

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That's another reason I did the free spin hubs. Hubs in free, nothing turns up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Ok, looks like a 3" TF spacer lift on top of a 4" Rough Country lift kit. Those are the stock body mounts so no body lift... You are running around 6"-7" of suspension lift without a drag link flip kit. Don't take this wrong, but that can't drive very well...

Did the shocks get changed when the 3" spacers went in? Did the bump stops get changed for the longer shocks? I can't imagine that suspension works properly...

Are the rear control arms adjustable? 37's are going to hit the rails... You need to start over on control arm lengths.
Yup my arms are adjustable. And yeah that’s right I forgot; no body lift, just an extra spacer on the coil. It already had both the lifts when I got it. And yeah the Shocks were totally extended and I felt like she was riding around on her tip toes so I replaced them. Plenty of travel now. As far as how’s she’s driven yeah I’ve had issues. In the past year and about 20k miles:
Blown ball joints
Steering box.
Front wheel bearings
Power steering pump

got her at 30k miles


Also had what seemed like a total fluke with the new rear drive shaft I put on where it just blew apart at the ears. No issues with the stock shaft that came with. There was no vibration or grinding or lock up in the diff or the TCase. No hard wheeling. Was literally rolling to a stop at like 10mph and it blew apart. My dirt crew had no clue. They totally ate the labor and RE covered the part to replace it. Only thing out of the ordinary with that might have been something triggering the traction control system. I had a spare tire on the rear axle coming home about 50 miles at night. Same size tire but deeper tread, not sure on type. I was on the fwy and noticed that at about 50 mph it seemed to lack power. Almost like a throttle sensor problem where Its not responding to the second half of the skinny pedal. I took her off the fwy and drove side streets home about 40 miles no issues then boom. If the lack of power I was feeling was the ebs kicking in I figured maybe that was what was straining the shaft. My guys didn’t seem to think so. Just chalked it up to a fluke. The other weird thing is the traction control light was on at the time which should mean the system was disabled amiright? However that could be cuz the clock spring was blown out and the steering column ribbon was torn so maybe kit was just an indicator problem and the system was active and being triggered by the spare. Still tho was a same size spare, just deeper tread. I dunno.

But thanks. Definitely knew she was a project when I got her. Honestly the biggest reason I picked her was the dark saddle leather interior that reminded me of my old ‘84 grand wagoneer. Total beast of a vehicle. Why does everyone have to go black leather? So basic... but yeah def trying to get her riding best as I can. I’ll look into the drag link flip and yeah I def need to do the bump stops with the way I wheel.

Ever seen a drive shaft snap in this spot before? I’ve only ever seen it do that at the joint

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When the traction control light comes on when it’s not supposed to a lot of weird stuff can happen including erratic unexpected braking and loss of power. This can happen with the steering wheel angle sensor or the wheel speed sensor. With your setup I suggest the accelerometer bypass switch mod.
 
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