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Discussion Starter #1
Changing out front and rear differential covers this weekend and replacing fluid with royal purple max gear.

Question. My rubi has a 2 inch lift all around - to change the covers do you think I need to lift the rig, put it on ramps or OK to change without lifting at all?

Curious what you guys used if you didn't have access to a proper lift at a shop.
 

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No lift needed at all. I change my diff fluid with the jeep sitting flat on the ground.
 

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On the rear, I like to lift the frame up (tires still on the ground, frame on jackstands) for easier access.
 
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You can do it any way you want BUT I always jack it uo and support the frame w jack stands so the axles can droop...
Makes it a LOT easier to move around under it and gets the rear down below the gas tank for much easier access
 

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I'm with @Clutch. Did mine sitting on the ground. Just chock the wheels.
 

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Is your rear pinion lifted? On mine, I need to lift the rear (or get the front lower) quite a bit in order to be able to add enough fluid. I recall having to do similar even with a small lift and stock arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No lift in the rear pinion - stock 05 Rubi but have 2 inch spacers in the front and 1.5 inch spacers in the back. Will most likely chock the wheels and see about getting a creeper for getting around under the rig. Long overdue for one anyways.
 

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Sitting cross legged or laying directly on the ground is going to be far more comfortable for this job than trying to use a creeper.

Which covers did you go with?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was really wanting to get the ARB covers front and back, but since the rubi sits in a garage most of the time and is used for the beach on weekends - couldn't justify $400+ for aesthetics alone. Everything else on the rig has been A+ parts with warn, bartact or arb all around but this is more of a nice to have while replacing fluid.

Ended up with the tactik covers at $89 a piece from quadratec with the lube locker seals. Figure can't go wrong with these for now.
 

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Hopefully they don't interfere with the track bar. Are you concerned about catching that big drain plug on the rocks?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't think it should have any issues with track bar - I didn't modify anything other than 2 inch spacers on front and 1.5 inch spacers on rear, track bar is essentially stock. I know some people had problems with ARB but don't think with these.

After final parts being put on this weekend going to enjoy this thing for a while. Put 500 miles on it since I picked it up in January - before and after below in case anyone is wondering :)

The day I picked it up 5 months ago and how it stands today.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey! To be fair, my parents are in Old Saybrook, CT and I'm in NYC. Not many places to take this thing off road. Plan this summer is to enjoy it, not go crazy but I want to do a few jeep jamboree events soon. Really itching to start hitting the trails. Never got into it but lately have been really wanting to build this thing to go off roading.
 

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I would encourage you to cycle the suspension to make sure. Looking at the cover again, I still have to wonder. If it works, then it works. If it doesn't, then a broken track bar means no more steering.

I think I already showed you this. Metalcloak track bar and ZJ steering at full bump with 1.375" bump stop extension.


This is a good combination​ for clearance, but there there still isn't much room for the track bar against the stock cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'll take a look tomorrow. The tactik covers I think are essentially rugged ridge covers under the quadratec brand, from what I've read I haven't seen people having issues with these. Quadratec swears that these will fit
 

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Many vendors say a lot of things... :) This is fairly easy to prove or disprove. And the results are helpful to everyone.

Just remember that you need to remove the coils just like in my pics. Flex shots don't tell you anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
When you say remove coils, you mean the actual springs? I thought differential cover replacement was an easy job - remove old cover, remove any of the old seal, prep new cover / lube locker, bolt on at 30 pounds of torque for each bolt and add fluid?
 

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the only way to verify that the cover isnt too long is to cycle the suspension and the best way to do that is to remove the springs and see what hits first. i see that fill plug being an issue. i'd cycle the suspension as many that are similar in design have had fitment issues, poison spyder, solid, pretty much anything that doesnt mirror the OEM top half. hard to trust anything Q-tec says, its like believing everything a used car salesman says.

side note, the OEM d44 on the rubi has a drain plug built into the housing.

also, make sure you put the recommended amount of fluid in, dont just fill it to fill plug.
 

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Changing out a diff cover is easy. Checking to make sure an aftermarket cover fits without interference issues is a different process. We generally call it a "full bump test". Still easy with basic automotive tools, just a bit more involved. But doing so teaches you a tremendous amount about how your suspension actually works.

IMO, the full bump test is one of the most important basic procedures to go through that removes nearly all of the mystery and guess work when building a Jeep.
 
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