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Discussion Starter #1
This will be my thread walking through the building of an eventual full set of adjustable control arms using Metalcloak's Duroflex joints.

I say eventual because these are getting built in stages. The truth is, they are actually a bit cheaper to buy already built from MC; however, taking the DIY route is allowing me to spread the cost out for the materials, while still remaining productive with what I have in the meantime. It is also allowing me to select the DOM sizes and specific joints that I choose to use.
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

My original plan was to use Currie Johnny Joints. It is no doubt the JJ has been the undisputed flex joint king for many years. With that said, I have been very intrigued by the reviews of the Metalcloak Duroflex joint. I am typically interested in trying newer things, and the majorly positive reviews make that an easy move for me.


I am starting with the rear upper arms. I have a SYE and CV ds sitting in boxes waiting to be installed and the rear uppers are one set of the two (lowers being the other) that I will need on hand to dial in the pinion.

After some deliberation, I decided to go with a single adjustable end....one end will have a fixed, welded on flex joint housing and the other will have a welded-in tube insert and a threaded flex joint.
I intend to follow this path for all of the sets of arms.
I decided on this route for a few reasons....simplicity, strength, and overall cost savings.

There were a couple conveniences I had to consider losing by not doing a double adjustable CA. One was that it is easier to adjust them with two adjustable ends. Another was that if I ever do a stretch, I could reuse the joints with new DOM tube and inserts and save the expense of rebuying joints.
My counter justifications for these are that once I do the initial length adjustments, I won't need to mess with them again and if I do a stretch/4-link, I will likely use all larger joints.



I started this build thread now because I just started receiving parts today.

I ordered the DOM and tube inserts from Ruff Stuff (cheapest prices and FAST shipping). And I of course the Duroflex joints from Metalcloak.

The DOM and inserts came in today.
I went with a 1.75"OD x .25"wall - 1.25"ID
And a corresponding 1.25" OD insert with 7/8" threaded shaft part.

Did I overdo the upper arms? :) :)





The Duroflex joints I am using going with are these:




2-1/4" OD x 2"W - 7/8" straight spud

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Interesting choice for material and joint size.....why not go with thinner wall tube and larger-shank joints? It'll work just fine but I'm partial to using the same shank size all around and just using smaller tube up top.
 

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Feel free to make me a set of the uppers too. :) LOL

Saw the pics of your TJ with new shoes. Looking great! :) When you gonna wheel it? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Interesting choice for material and joint size.....why not go with thinner wall tube and larger-shank joints? It'll work just fine but I'm partial to using the same shank size all around and just using smaller tube up top.
Honestly, I was thinking .120 wall tube would be too thin. I know the uppers don't see any contact, but wasn't sure the thickness would be up to the task. I do have the same OD DOM tube with .120" wall that I can use. Do you think I should use it instead...with a larger 1" shank? The only piece I have not ordered yet is the threaded joints.
Would it be worth using the thinner walled DOM to use a thicker shank (1" vs the 7/8" I planned on)?

I could've used a 1.5" OD tube, but with a 1" ID, I would still end up with a 7/8" shank from what I can see.

For the lowers, I was anticipating using MC's 1-1/4" shank joints.


I am definitely open to suggestions!

Feel free to make me a set of the uppers too. :) LOL

Saw the pics of your TJ with new shoes. Looking great! :) When you gonna wheel it? :)
Let me get these ironed out first and we'll talk :)

Thanks! In the shopping mode for a F 8.8 to build for the rear.
 

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You already have the tube....it's not going to hurt a thing by using the thicker wall and smaller shanks....but the thinner wall tube would be lighter and well up to the task.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You already have the tube....it's not going to hurt a thing by using the thicker wall and smaller shanks....but the thinner wall tube would be lighter and well up to the task.
Fair enough.
 

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Interesting choice for material and joint size.....why not go with thinner wall tube and larger-shank joints? It'll work just fine but I'm partial to using the same shank size all around and just using smaller tube up top.
Does this mean you would use the .120 on uppers and .250 on lowers? Not arguing against it, just making sure I understand it before I place it in the knowledge vault.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I made a bone-headed move when I originally started this project. When I ordered the 1.75" OD tube, I did not realize the MC joint tube was only 1.5" wide.
I just only a week ago came back to this project to get working on it. Between the baby and new house, I just haven't had time to think about it.

I pulled out the tube and joint to get things laid out and that is when I realized my error.

Since I was already partially into the project, I went ahead and ordered some new DOM tube. Went with 1.5" OD tube and tube adapters. I will bevel the edge of the tube before welding to the joint sleeve to gain a larger weld surface.

The new tube and adapters showed up yesterday.

I also got a call from Metal Cloak yesterday thanking me for my order and letting me know they were working on my order.
I know MC is known for 2-3 week lead times, so no worries there. I figure I will get started on the fixed joint end, and then when the threaded joints come in, I will take final measurements to trim the DOM where I will start with stock 13.5" minimum length.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So let's try this again. Here is the new DOM and adapters.

I suppose I still went overkill with the 1/4" wall tube. It leaves me with a 7/8" joint thread vs. a 1" shank that would've been possible with 1/8" wall tube. I am hoping I don't find any reason to regret that decision.
The DOM is 12" long, which is the minimum length anyone offers. I will have to trim a little from each tube to aid in reaching the overall minimum control arm length.

I ordered the material from Barnes4wd and they don't offer tube adapters with a hex end for using a wrench with the jamb nut. Rather than making two separate orders with different companies, I just went with the standard adapters. Since I have a fixed joint end, I should be fine without the hex-end adapter.
Barnes has the best shipped price on DOM I have found. They only offer three sizes, but they are common use sizes.


 

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Double adjustable would be nice! Just turn to adjust!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Double adjustable would be nice, but I will tough through the adjustment process.
 

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How much do the joints run. Might b interested n making me some been thinking about it to get rid of those crappy skyjacker arms
 

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Discussion Starter #20
98 TJ, it is cheaper to buy them ready to go vs the way I am doing these. From the start, my intent was to build them myself for the experience of the project, but also to spread the cost out.
The DOM and tube inserts come to about $30 shipped. The weld-on joints are like $75 shipped for the pair, and the threaded joints were about $130 shipped for the pair.
Then you have to cut and weld to assemble, and then paint or powdercoat.
Theirs are already done for that same price.

If you just want the fab project or are trying to spread the cost out, this makes sense. Otherwise, just buy them ready to install.
 
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