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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been following the Mopar 2" lift thread, but it's 61 pages long and includes mostly photos of trucks after the install. My lift is scheduled to arrive tomorrow and I'd like to install it in the next few days.

I sure I have all the tools needed for the install, but I've never installed a lift before. I've read the online instructions for the install, but they aren't entirely clear and don't explain where some of the parts in the kit are used.

For those of you who installed the kit yourself or paid a shop to do it, can you share some insight and photos for the rest of us. Photos of any brackets, link adjustments, shortcuts, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I'm especially interested in seeing how the brake lines, axle lock wiring, etc. were moved. A photo of the track bar bracket correctly installed would be awesome.

I'm hoping to save myself some aggravation by tapping into the collective genius that exists on this forum. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
 

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Just a suggestion seeing as time was mentioned. Skim the 61 page thread and PM the guys that did the install themselves. Better they see a PM in 20-30 minutes than miss this thread which will drop quickly on the page.
good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just a suggestion seeing as time was mentioned. Skim the 61 page thread and PM the guys that did the install themselves. Better they see a PM in 20-30 minutes than miss this thread which will drop quickly on the page.
good luck.
Good thinking....I've been keeping up with the other thread but there are a lot of photos of bad installations. I'll reach out to those with photos to see if they can contribute here.
 

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Install the rear lift portion first. That way you'll have the sway bar links for the front when you get to it.

Have you decided on any form of geometry correction for the front, i.e. AEV geo brackets or adjustable control arms? The Mopar Kit comes with the cam bolts, but most suggest not using them and going another correction route. I did the AEV brackets and am really happy with how the Jeep drives.

The driveshaft swap is a little time consuming, but not terribly hard. Just make sure you have the socket for the transfer case side yoke. I can't recall the size at the moment.

Not a must, but you may want to do adjustable track bars later to get the axles centered back under the frame and get your thrust angle zeroed out.

The lift is fairly easy to install. The hardest part was getting the right front axel to drop low enough to to slide the spring in. It's been suggested to disconnect the track bar to get it to lower easier. Of course I found this out AFTER I had installed my lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Install the rear lift portion first. That way you'll have the sway bar links for the front when you get to it.

Have you decided on any form of geometry correction for the front, i.e. AEV geo brackets or adjustable control arms? The Mopar Kit comes with the cam bolts, but most suggest not using them and going another correction route. I did the AEV brackets and am really happy with how the Jeep drives.

The driveshaft swap is a little time consuming, but not terribly hard. Just make sure you have the socket for the transfer case side yoke. I can't recall the size at the moment.

Not a must, but you may want to do adjustable track bars later to get the axles centered back under the frame and get your thrust angle zeroed out.

The lift is fairly easy to install. The hardest part was getting the right front axel to drop low enough to to slide the spring in. It's been suggested to disconnect the track bar to get it to lower easier. Of course I found this out AFTER I had installed my lift.
Did you use a spring compressor for your install? Would it have helped? Are the springs attached at the top and bottom or do they just sit in place?
 

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Did you use a spring compressor for your install? Would it have helped? Are the springs attached at the top and bottom or do they just sit in place?
No need for a spring compressor. Just make sure the springs are seated properly as you lift the axel back into place. The front springs lower perch have a notch that the spring is clocked in to. I also tied the front lower bumps stop brackets to the inside of the spring before installing because it didn't look like they could be squeezed in with the springs in place.
 

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I've been following the Mopar 2" lift thread, but it's 61 pages long and includes mostly photos of trucks after the install. My lift is scheduled to arrive tomorrow and I'd like to install it in the next few days.

I sure I have all the tools needed for the install, but I've never installed a lift before. I've read the online instructions for the install, but they aren't entirely clear and don't explain where some of the parts in the kit are used.

For those of you who installed the kit yourself or paid a shop to do it, can you share some insight and photos for the rest of us. Photos of any brackets, link adjustments, shortcuts, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I'm especially interested in seeing how the brake lines, axle lock wiring, etc. were moved. A photo of the track bar bracket correctly installed would be awesome.

I'm hoping to save myself some aggravation by tapping into the collective genius that exists on this forum. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
Sent you a PM with my number. I just installed mine 2 months ago. Text me if you have any questions.
 

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Install the rear lift portion first. That way you'll have the sway bar links for the front when you get to it.

Have you decided on any form of geometry correction for the front, i.e. AEV geo brackets or adjustable control arms? The Mopar Kit comes with the cam bolts, but most suggest not using them and going another correction route. I did the AEV brackets and am really happy with how the Jeep drives.

The driveshaft swap is a little time consuming, but not terribly hard. Just make sure you have the socket for the transfer case side yoke. I can't recall the size at the moment.

Not a must, but you may want to do adjustable track bars later to get the axles centered back under the frame and get your thrust angle zeroed out.

The lift is fairly easy to install. The hardest part was getting the right front axel to drop low enough to to slide the spring in. It's been suggested to disconnect the track bar to get it to lower easier. Of course I found this out AFTER I had installed my lift.

This^^^^^^

I used AEV Geo brackets
I used TeraFlex Monster front track bar (adjustable) to re-center front axle
I did front first but just left the links off until the end
Ensure you are on the ground flat when completing final tightening (this goes for all lifts)
Yolk I found:
-put in 4WD
-lower vehicle to ground (did this last after everything was tight and the vehicle sat higher due to lift)
-Had to use a breaker bar to get it started due to the vehicle still moving some and limited movement
-then removed by hand
-careful starting the bolt with gasket, want to fold, just take your time

I removed the hanger for the emergency brake lines to allow rear axle to lower more to assist with new spring install

The "spacers" on top of the spring perches are a PIA and the bolts are too long. I would suggest shorter bolts that are supplied, the ones that came with my kit made contact with the axle before they were tight. Being that these are only holding them in place I just installed one. Am actually considering removing them completely but haven't looked at where I will make contact with them removed

Careful with lowering the front axle, front DS can make "over flex" and damage boot. Maybe removing this first can eliminate this issue and allow easier front install. I didn't have any damage but missed that part of the directions until I was done with the front install.

Make sure you tighten everything on the ground initially then after several hundred miles. I chased a rattle for a long time ended up being the lower mounts of the rear shocks. Appeared tight but shock had the ability to move and cause a rattling over bumps.

ENJOY :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A few before photos of both the kit and my stock 2015 JKU Rubicon. Sorry they are in the garage but it was already dark outside when I got home.


Here is the stock measurement for the front wheel well.

Here is the stock measurement for the rear wheel well



This is how I found the contents of the box. I was surprised to see everything loose in the box.

After pulling everything out to take a peek, I reorganized a bit so I didn't lose anything before installation.


New Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers. I'll put these on while I'm installing the lift.
 

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You might as well start your wheel and tire shopping now! I went your route with the wheel spacers. You're going to want those bigger tires much sooner once you put that lift on. Enjoy the install and the satisfaction of having done it yourself.




 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Q, your rig looks great. I had a 2-door Wrangler Sport about 10 years ago that was yellow.

Can you or someone else decipher the instructions for the front jounce pads. I'm assuming they are the smaller steel squares that came with the kit, but the crappy diagrams don't show exactly how they are installed. If someone has a close-up photo of them I'd love to see it. For those that don't know what I'm talking about, it's the piece that requires drilling on the lower spring pad in the front.

Here are the parts I'm referring to:

 

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Q, your rig looks great. I had a 2-door Wrangler Sport about 10 years ago that was yellow.

Can you or someone else decipher the instructions for the front jounce pads. I'm assuming they are the smaller steel squares that came with the kit, but the crappy diagrams don't show exactly how they are installed. If someone has a close-up photo of them I'd love to see it. For those that don't know what I'm talking about, it's the piece that requires drilling on the lower spring pad in the front.

Here are the parts I'm referring to:

Yes, the smaller ones go on the front axle. When you go to install the front springs they need to be inside the spring before hand and mounted after the spring is installed. That's why I tied them to the inside of the spring, so that all I had to do was untie them and install them. Of course you'll need to drill the area on the axle as outlined in the instructions first.

Two things that may help you that I found no one mentioned in any of the threads. Check the hole size of these bump stops BEFORE you go to install them to make sure the bolts fit properly. Also, I had to grind the nuts for the rears down slightly to get them to meet up with the bolts.

Not the best picture, but it's the only one I took during the install.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got the rear all finished up yesterday evening. It took me about 3 hours, but I was taking my time and double checking everything. Only hiccup were the nuts for the rear jounce pads. I had to grind a hair off each of the nuts so I could slide them in far enough for the bolts to engage without cross threading.

Take a look at the attached and let me know what you think. I wasn't sure about the wheel speed sensor wires. The directions say, "Located on the driver's side upper frame rail there are two clips that retain the wheel speed sensor wire. Disconnect the forward most clip from the arm mount". I'm assuming they are talking about the control arm mount on the axle. I didn't understand why they only reference the driver's side since both sides have the same wire. I removed the same clip on both sides - please correct me if I removed something incorrectly.





 

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I reinstalled the emergency brake cable bracket because the instructions didn't say one way or the other. I've given thought to removing it, just to be sure there are no problems off-road.

I found the torque value for the U bolts on the Teraflex website and used their recommended torque of 85 foot pounds.

Your sway bar links look correct.

The ABS wire clamp they refer to are on the upper frame, not the axle side.



Hope that info helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I reinstalled the emergency brake cable bracket because the instructions didn't say one way or the other. I've given thought to removing it, just to be sure there are no problems off-road.

I found the torque value for the U bolts on the Teraflex website and used their recommended torque of 85 foot pounds.

Your sway bar links look correct.

The ABS wire clamp they refer to are on the upper frame, not the axle side.



Hope that info helps.
The directions aren't great. The wire clip you removed is the first one I did, but it didn't make sense to me. Removing the most forward clip didn't add any slack at all to my wire. The directions talk about the upper frame rail (which your photo shows), but then references "from the arm mount". After looking around I figured they were talking about the control arm mount on the axle. IDK.

Did you remove any clips from the passenger side?

Thinking about it more, they must be talking about the clip you removed. The arm mount they are referring to is the frame mounted one. I'll have to fix that when I get home from work. Did you do the passenger side also?
 

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The directions aren't great. The wire clip you removed is the first one I did, but it didn't make sense to me. Removing the most forward clip didn't add any slack at all to my wire. The directions talk about the upper frame rail (which your photo shows), but then references "from the arm mount". After looking around I figured they were talking about the control arm mount on the axle. IDK.

Did you remove any clips from the passenger side?
Yes, both sides!

Yeah, I wonder about the people that write these instructions sometimes. I'm no english major, but Im married to one :), and sometimes I just scratch my head trying to figure out what they're saying. Pictures always help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Can anyone tell me what these go to? I don't see where they are mentioned in the directions and they seem to be extra parts. Not sure if they were supposed to replace other fasteners or what:

 
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