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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Showed my wife the video of the guy who installed the DIY pressurized water system using the rear bumper as a reservoir...and her reaction was "thats F'ing cool, you should do that!!!". So, I bought a similar pump on Amazon, and it should be here on Monday.

Firstly, I live in Buffalo so I may or may not use the bumper as the water reservoir. I might just hook up some Jerrycans and plumb them for the fresh water, that way its more of a seasonal mod that I can take in for the winter for obvious reasons.

My question is about wiring the pump, which is 12V and around 6amp max draw I believe: I am considering buying a flat trailer harness as the means to wire it. Basically use that as a plug-in system for when I want to use it. I was thinking of wiring the hot lead for the pump into the "lights" line (ground, lights, Left-turn, right-turn wires for a flat harness), and just using the lights as the switch for the pump power. So, basically plug the pump into the trailer harness, and then flip the lights to ON from inside the Jeep to supply the power to the pump.

I'm no electrical guru, so what ideas, comments, or concerns do you guys have?
 

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Showed my wife the video of the guy who installed the DIY pressurized water system using the rear bumper as a reservoir...and her reaction was "thats F'ing cool, you should do that!!!". So, I bought a similar pump on Amazon, and it should be here on Monday.

Firstly, I live in Buffalo so I may or may not use the bumper as the water reservoir. I might just hook up some Jerrycans and plumb them for the fresh water, that way its more of a seasonal mod that I can take in for the winter for obvious reasons.

My question is about wiring the pump, which is 12V and around 6amp max draw I believe: I am considering buying a flat trailer harness as the means to wire it. Basically use that as a plug-in system for when I want to use it. I was thinking of wiring the hot lead for the pump into the "lights" line (ground, lights, Left-turn, right-turn wires for a flat harness), and just using the lights as the switch for the pump power. So, basically plug the pump into the trailer harness, and then flip the lights to ON from inside the Jeep to supply the power to the pump.

I'm no electrical guru, so what ideas, comments, or concerns do you guys have?
I have a surflow pump that auto turns on with the decrease in pressure. Almost all RV pumps come like this. I would look into one of those. Also what GPM is your pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have the same thing, its a Shurflo [email protected]/min (or thereabouts), the only thing is I was contemplating between mounting it permanently or in a more temporary way so I could remove it in the winter and when not is use. If I were to mount it permanently I'd tap the 12V from below somewhere and mount it like the original guy did it, and just let the pump regulate itself. If it were a temporary "only-when-needed" (ie camping trips) type set up I was thinking of making a plug out of trailer harness and just plugging it into my trailer wiring.
 

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I have the same thing, its a Shurflo [email protected]/min (or thereabouts), the only thing is I was contemplating between mounting it permanently or in a more temporary way so I could remove it in the winter and when not is use. If I were to mount it permanently I'd tap the 12V from below somewhere and mount it like the original guy did it, and just let the pump regulate itself. If it were a temporary "only-when-needed" (ie camping trips) type set up I was thinking of making a plug out of trailer harness and just plugging it into my trailer wiring.
Oh I see. Well why not just keep it permanent? It's not like the pump will get in the way of anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I live in Buffalo, the land of extreme cold and uber salty road conditions for 8-months out of the year. If I mount that pump under the Jeep, it'll be toast in no time.
 

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I was mode so looking to have my on board air system pressurize the tanks, don't know where or if I will ever mount tanks same issue of here in North East it gets cold. An electrical pump would be easier less plumbing and use of relief valves all that good stuff but if you do a build please post up pictures.
 

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I re-plumbed and re-wired an ATV sprayer and mounted it on my roof rack. It is a 16 gallon northstar sprayer from Northern Tool. It straps on securely and as an on-demand sprayer, it only pulls water when the valve is opened. The pump is built in and does 2gpm which is more than enough water pressure. We did a 2 week camping trip through CO and Moab earlier this summer and it worked great for showers and washing dishes (and as a backup drinking water supply). If no roof rack you could strap it down in the cargo area but it would obviously take up a lot of room. It does come with a cigarette lighter plug so you could just plug it in to the one in the rear compartment and not have to do any wiring at all.
 

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I re-plumbed and re-wired an ATV sprayer and mounted it on my roof rack. It is a 16 gallon northstar sprayer from Northern Tool. It straps on securely and as an on-demand sprayer, it only pulls water when the valve is opened. The pump is built in and does 2gpm which is more than enough water pressure. We did a 2 week camping trip through CO and Moab earlier this summer and it worked great for showers and washing dishes (and as a backup drinking water supply). If no roof rack you could strap it down in the cargo area but it would obviously take up a lot of room. It does come with a cigarette lighter plug so you could just plug it in to the one in the rear compartment and not have to do any wiring at all.
Triggerfin - Great idea! Why did you have to re-plumb and re-wire the sprayer? The broadcast and spot sprayer combination look vey handy too.
 

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Triggerfin - Great idea! Why did you have to re-plumb and re-wire the sprayer? The broadcast and spot sprayer combination look vey handy too.
Rewire: It comes set up to clamp to your batter terminals or plugin to an accessory outlet. Being on the roof, I wanted to wire so I could turn it on from the cabin and not have to climb up on the roof to turn it on. Not necessary if you are going to just plug into your accessory outlet in the cargo area, although you would have to lengthen it if you wanted it on your roof.

Re-plumb: I wanted to use an on-demand sprayer like the pull out sprayer that you see on kitchen sinks. Works great for showers, washing dishes, etc. Both of those task would be rough going with the broadcast and spot wand sprayers. If I ever did want to use it for its intended purpose (sprayer), I could easily plug in the sprayers that come with it. I also wanted an extra long hose so I could have some flexibility in terms of where I set up my toilet/shower tent and where I wash dishes. Hose is 10' long. Not a tough task - 5 minutes finding the right fittings and hoses at the hardware store and maybe 30 minutes getting it all rigged up.

Very happy with the setup and it greatly extends the amount of time I can comfortably back-country camp with the family without visiting civilization (approx. 4 days at a time).
 

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Thanks Tridderfin for the additional information. Makes perfect sense what you've done. I had to do a double take when I saw your picture. Your JKUR looks like a twin of mine but with nicer shoes.... We're going to do a week again at Moab in November and I'm getting tired of the 5 gallon jugs. Now I've got to check and see if the sprayer will fit with my roof top tent.

Steve

 

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Very nice! Keep in mind that is a lot of weight up there, particularly if you keep rotopax and other heavy stuff up there like me. My bolts came loose on the white rim trail and the rack shifted down on to my roof, doing some pretty ugly damage. I saw a while back that Gobi had come out with some additional stabilizers at the top corners but I don't see them on their website anymore so maybe they didn't work out. Tightening down all the bolts b4 you leave the pavement and having tools on-board for a re-tighten should do the trick. I am going to look for additional stabilization means prior to my next long off-road trip though, to include some on-frame welding of the rear supports. Having all the extra water w/ a pump sure is nice in Moab.
 

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I saw a while back that Gobi had come out with some additional stabilizers at the top corners but I don't see them on their website anymore so maybe they didn't work out.
The GOBI site has not been updated in a while. The upper isolators are available, we sell a lot actually.

Gobi Jeep JK Upper Roof Rack Isolators


Obviously they only work with hardtops

 

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My bolts came loose on the white rim trail and the rack shifted down on to my roof, doing some pretty ugly damage.
I take it that your bolts came loose where it bolts to the frame in the rear. I do carry a roof top tent that is about 125# so adding 16 gallons of water to the load does have me concerned. Maybe if it was placed far forward where the rack is stiffer. Dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, after thinking about it I've decided to return the pump I bought and go a different direction. I think Triggerfin's setup is far more realistic for my needs than doing a whole custom setup. Ah well, on to the next project!
 

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I take it that your bolts came loose where it bolts to the frame in the rear. I do carry a roof top tent that is about 125# so adding 16 gallons of water to the load does have me concerned. Maybe if it was placed far forward where the rack is stiffer. Dunno.
That's right. The holes in those brackets are oval, vertical and on my rig the brackets need to be at the highest position to keep the rack off the hardtop. Therefore, the only thing keeping it up in that position is the amount of torque in the bolts (and not the bracket itself). Get on some hardscrabble with a lot of water weight up there and they will eventually shake loose and send the rack down on your hardtop. I see welding as a way to fix this. Alternatively perhaps you could drill some additional holes and bolt things in place.
 

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That's right. The holes in those brackets are oval, vertical and on my rig the brackets need to be at the highest position to keep the rack off the hardtop. Therefore, the only thing keeping it up in that position is the amount of torque in the bolts (and not the bracket itself). Get on some hardscrabble with a lot of water weight up there and they will eventually shake loose and send the rack down on your hardtop. I see welding as a way to fix this. Alternatively perhaps you could drill some additional holes and bolt things in place.
Yes, I can see that yours sits forward of the rear bumper. On mine the rear bracket is directly above the bumper. There is about a 1/4" space between them. If things come loose the bracket will be stopped from dropping by the bumper.

I've decided to not go with the extra overhead weight anyway. I found a water tank from Frontrunner that will fit between the front seats and rear ones folded down. Front Runner Vehicle Outfitters FRONT RUNNER UPRIGHT WATER TANK 40L

This plus sealing the bumper will give me about 17 gallons of onboard water. That should be plenty for our needs.
 

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As a word of caution, I would not supply the pump from the trailer harness or vehicle lighting system. Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep runs that through the TIPM (expensive) and problems with trailer lights have been known to bring down the system. A short or overload situation would allow so many resets then it was off to the dealer.

I'd run a fused wire from the battery - you'll have no problems and no warranty issues.
 
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