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Discussion Starter #1
Going to buy an Alpine KTP-445U. Amazon has it for $114.95 plus Best Buy install $79.99 plus addl Best Buy charge of $5.00 for a total of $199.94 installed. Wondering if I should buy it all at Best Buy to get an extended warranty. But the amp is $149.99 plus the warranty $24.99 for a total price of $270.82. I'll probably go with the cheaper option but I was just wondering about the failure rate of amps. Your thoughts?

By the way, Best Buy does have a price match with Amazon but only if the product is shipped from Amazon. In this case it is not.
 

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As long as the amp is not abused (overloaded) or getting wet they will likely last many many years. I have old amps from the mid 90's that still work great.
 

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... but I was just wondering about the failure rate of amps. Your thoughts?
Electronics tend to die early, or last a long time. Its called "infant mortality".

Your new amp will either die during the normal warranty, or last until you submerge your JK down into the bottom of a river.
 

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Going to buy an Alpine KTP-445U. Amazon has it for $114.95 plus Best Buy install $79.99 plus addl Best Buy charge of $5.00 for a total of $199.94 installed. Wondering if I should buy it all at Best Buy to get an extended warranty. But the amp is $149.99 plus the warranty $24.99 for a total price of $270.82. I'll probably go with the cheaper option but I was just wondering about the failure rate of amps. Your thoughts?

By the way, Best Buy does have a price match with Amazon but only if the product is shipped from Amazon. In this case it is not.
As the previous poster mentioned, it's either going to crap out early on (due to a mfg defect) or will pretty much last forever. That's just how things tend to go with solid state electronics.

Have you already replaced your speakers and/or head unit and looking for more power? I ask because adding an amp to the stock speakers wouldn't give any real improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As the previous poster mentioned, it's either going to crap out early on (due to a mfg defect) or will pretty much last forever. That's just how things tend to go with solid state electronics.

Have you already replaced your speakers and/or head unit and looking for more power? I ask because adding an amp to the stock speakers wouldn't give any real improvement.
I've already replaced the 6.5 inch speakers with the kickers. It did improve the sound but I'm looking for a little more. I figure with the Alpine amp and the four kickers it should sound pretty good for a modest investment.

Thanks for the replies. I will be going the cheaper route.
 

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I've already replaced the 6.5 inch speakers with the kickers. It did improve the sound but I'm looking for a little more. I figure with the Alpine amp and the four kickers it should sound pretty good for a modest investment.

Thanks for the replies. I will be going the cheaper route.
For roughly the same cost you could add a small 8" powered sub (sound ordnance B-8PTD for $150). It would have a much greater impact on the overall sound then adding an amp for the 6.5" kickers. Doing so would allow you to set the bass level on the HU to -3 or lower and let the sub to all the heavy lifting. This would remove demand from the 6.5" speakers allowing them to play cleaner louder. It can fit under the passenger seat in a JKU or in the rear storage area (with plastic tray removed) in both the JK/JKU.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For roughly the same cost you could add a small 8" powered sub (sound ordnance B-8PTD for $150). It would have a much greater impact on the overall sound then adding an amp for the 6.5" kickers. Doing so would allow you to set the bass level on the HU to -3 or lower and let the sub to all the heavy lifting. This would remove demand from the 6.5" speakers allowing them to play cleaner louder. It can fit under the passenger seat in a JKU or in the rear storage area (with plastic tray removed) in both the JK/JKU.
Thanks for the info Webwarmiller. I'm just learning about all this car audio stuff and a powered sub wasn't even on my radar. So are you saying that I should get the sub in addition to the amp or just by itself. How would it be hooked up?
 

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Sort of related but I installed one myself in a new 1976 Vette, sold it in 1983 and a few weeks later the guy called me as the vehicle caught fire and wanted more information about the amp. I felt pretty bad about it. I think it was more my install then the amp itself.
 

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Thanks for the info Webwarmiller. I'm just learning about all this car audio stuff and a powered sub wasn't even on my radar. So are you saying that I should get the sub in addition to the amp or just by itself. How would it be hooked up?
What I'm suggesting is that if you have ~$200 to spend then the powered sub would give you a lot more bang for your buck than adding an amp to drive the Kicker 6.5" speakers. While the amp is around 3 times more powerful than the stock HU, that really only equates to a 4.5dB gain in max volume. Furthermore it just makes the current sound profile louder and doesn't really change it. Adding a powered sub will provide a pretty big change to the overall tonal balance of the system giving you some real bass. As mentioned in the earlier post it will also allow your current Kickers to play louder than they currently do. This is because you can set the bass level at the HU much lower than it currently is thanks to the sub handling the bass demands.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What I'm suggesting is that if you have ~$200 to spend then the powered sub would give you a lot more bang for your buck than adding an amp to drive the Kicker 6.5" speakers. While the amp is around 3 times more powerful than the stock HU, that really only equates to a 4.5dB gain in max volume. Furthermore it just makes the current sound profile louder and doesn't really change it. Adding a powered sub will provide a pretty big change to the overall tonal balance of the system giving you some real bass. As mentioned in the earlier post it will also allow your current Kickers to play louder than they currently do. This is because you can set the bass level at the HU much lower than it currently is thanks to the sub handling the bass demands.
I will look into this. At this price point is Sound Ordnance one of the better brands? Would I just need the sub and a wiring kit? Would it sound good with the base stereo? Is it difficult to connect? Sorry about all the questions but you've got me going in a direction I know nothing about. But I will learn.
 

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Hey Neighbor!! I added a sound ordnance B-8PTD and changed out my speakers to good coaxials and it makes a huge difference. You can easily tap into the speaker wires as the sub runs on speaker level inputs. You just need to run power to battery and a good ground. I also ended up adding an amp too, because I felt the new speakers were being under powered. Now it sounds better than the factory alpine system.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Neighbor!! I added a sound ordnance B-8PTD and changed out my speakers to good coaxials and it makes a huge difference. You can easily tap into the speaker wires as the sub runs on speaker level inputs. You just need to run power to battery and a good ground. I also ended up adding an amp too, because I felt the new speakers were being under powered. Now it sounds better than the factory alpine system.
Hey neighbor! This winter is a lot better than last year, huh?
Now I can bug you for a while if you don't mind. So you have the base stereo and your system now sounds great? Did you do all the wiring for the amp and sub yourself? Do you have an unlimited or a 2 door and where did you put the sub? I thought I read that it doesn't fit under the 2 door seat. Lastly have you posted some of your audio work on the forum and should I do a search?

Now I've got the four kickers. If I add the Alpine amp and the sound ordnance sub, there's nothing else I need to do, correct? I took early retirement from Hasbro last year and the wife will not be happy with the unexpected bills. I'll have to take her out to a nice restaurant this weekend and tell her then. I'm a coward.
 

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I will look into this. At this price point is Sound Ordnance one of the better brands? Would I just need the sub and a wiring kit? Would it sound good with the base stereo? Is it difficult to connect? Sorry about all the questions but you've got me going in a direction I know nothing about. But I will learn.
Sound Ordnance is Crutchfield's house brand. It is a well reviewed unit that many have had success with in the Wrangler as well as other cars. It includes a remote volume control whereas many others make you purchase one separately.

Yes, you would need an amplifier wiring kit. An 8 gauge kit can be bought on AMZ for ~$15. You won't need everything in the kit, but it's less expensive to buy a full kit than to piece together the parts you would need.

I would suggest using a PAC AOEM CH3 harness ($33 - Amazon.com : PAC AOEM-CHR3 System Interface Kit to Add or Replace An Amplifier in Select 2007-up Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep Vehicles with an Infinity System : Car Electronics). This harness plugs in-line btw the stock head unit and factory wiring harness. It taps into the all for speaker channels (FR, FL, RR, RL) and sends them to a line output converter resulting in 4 RCA line outs and a remote turn on wire. You would then connect the remote turn on and front RCA's to the powered sub. You would then need to also ground the powered sub at the closest possible point and run a power wire from the powered sub into the engine compartment.

You could also simply tap into the speaker wires yourself and run speaker wires to the powered sub as it accepts speaker level inputs. I suggest the harness above as it provides an easier upgrade path down the road if you ever want to add an amp to drive the Kicker coaxials. You'll never have to tap or splice into any factory wiring as the harness handles everything for you.
 

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Going to buy an Alpine KTP-445U. Amazon has it for $114.95 plus Best Buy install $79.99 plus addl Best Buy charge of $5.00 for a total of $199.94 installed. Wondering if I should buy it all at Best Buy to get an extended warranty. But the amp is $149.99 plus the warranty $24.99 for a total price of $270.82. I'll probably go with the cheaper option but I was just wondering about the failure rate of amps. Your thoughts?

By the way, Best Buy does have a price match with Amazon but only if the product is shipped from Amazon. In this case it is not.
I had that same amp installed by Best Buy well over a year ago and have had no issues. In fact it's nice not having to crank my radio all that way in order to hear music with my roof off. I see no need for an extended warranty if you have a good installer.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As I'm reading and replying to this thread, I'm searching the forum and there is a lot of info on powered subs. Thanks for making me aware of this option. Webwarmiller, you are saying that I'd see a bigger sound improvement with the powered sub alone rather than just the amp, correct? But I guess the best solution would be to do both if I could swing it. I might consider replacing the head unit but I'm enjoying my year of Sirius.
 

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Webwarmiller, you are saying that I'd see a bigger sound improvement with the powered sub alone rather than just the amp, correct? But I guess the best solution would be to do both if I could swing it. I might consider replacing the head unit but I'm enjoying my year of Sirius.
That's exactly what I'm saying. If you can only pick one, add the powered sub. You are also correct that doing both would be the best option. However, you might find yourself completely content running the Kickers off the stock HU once you have the powered sub installed.
 

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As a note, keep in mind that when going topless, subs lose a large portion of their "kick".

If you go topless a lot, you'll still want to upgrade the dash and soundbar speakers.
 

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Hey neighbor! This winter is a lot better than last year, huh?
Yes much better, I'm contemplating switching to the soft top early this year! So here is what I did. First I replaced the soundbar speakers and added polyfill, this made a real difference! Second, I added the Sub. This was pretty easy, just ran a power wire off the battery and tapped into the rear speaker wires for input. The sub is auto sensing so I didn't need a remote turn on. This made the biggest difference by far. Even sounded better than my 2007 with the factory sub did. Because I had an alpine MRV F300 4 ch amp laying around, I then installed that too, and although it did make a big difference, the sub was still the best bang for the buck. I still have a set of component speakers to install in the front, I will put the woofer below and the tweeter up top in the dash. I made a bracket out of some steel strapping to mount the amp under the passenger seat, and the sub just sits under the rear seats.
 
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