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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some wobble, so I'm throwing parts at the TJ. I installed a new steering bar and drag link, and this is what the tie rod ends look like. They are torqued to 55 ft/lbs. I can't even use a cotter pin in them. The stock tie rods didn't look like that. Do these look sunk in too far? Could the holes in the knuckles be wallowed out? The TJ had some extreme death wobble when I got it, I've replaced the track bar, control arms, bushings, hubs, ball joints, and driveshaft ujoints and cant get rid of the last bit of wobble. After I installed this I took it for a drive, didn't get out of the driveway and I heard and felt all sorts of popping under there.

Could it be bad tie rod ends? The kit doesn't look high quality. These are what I got:



Automotive tire Rim Tread Motor vehicle Bumper
Hand tool Automotive tire Tread Stonemason's hammer Tire
 

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I also just installed all new links up front. I did the heavy duty kit (ZJ conversion) from Quadratec as well, probably the same kit.

My tie rod ends look exactly the same except my passenger side boot keeps ripping when tightening. Probably a sharp edge I’m still missing and I gotta file down or something. I’ll get to it later. This is the third boot though..

Anyway, mine looks the same with the same torque spec. I just put the cotter pin in anyway, greased it a little and called it. Steering feels fine to me. 🤷‍♂️


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Automotive wheel system Gas
 

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Looks like someone or some new part made taper in hole go away and now proper end designed to work with stock tapered hole no longer fits correctly


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1993 Wrangler YJ 4.0
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Uh, no.

There is zero chance that I would use those or "just put the cotter pin in anyway, greased it a little bit, and called it".

zero

I may buy a set of these just so I can get them and throw them in the trash so that someone doesn't buy them and actually "just put the cotter pin in anyway, greased it a little bit, and called it".
 

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Didn’t say I was stopping there. Also didn’t say I was replacing anything so your concern is fair enough.

I’m going to email Quadratec now about the issue. My part number was RT21004 for the kit.

I’m starting to think of just buying and replacing tie rod, drag link, and tie rod end with sleeves with Moog parts on Amazon. It seems that most people went that route and didn’t have issues. Should be here in about 2/3 days via Prime.



Uh, no.

There is zero chance that I would use those or "just put the cotter pin in anyway, greased it a little bit, and called it".

zero

I may buy a set of these just so I can get them and throw them in the trash so that someone doesn't buy them and actually "just put the cotter pin in anyway, greased it a little bit, and called it".
 

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I’m starting to think of just buying and replacing tie rod, drag link, and tie rod end with sleeves with Moog parts on Amazon. It seems that most people went that route and didn’t have issues. Should be here in about 2/3 days via Prime.
If you do end up going that route, check I'd go with the ZJ parts. see the write up below.
 

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If you do end up going that route, check I'd go with the ZJ parts. see the write up below.
Thanks, I’m actually going to do that now. I should be fine driving on this for the next couple days. When I removed the new kit originally to replace the boot, it was pressed in because I had to hammer on the knuckle to get it to pop out, so the nut isn’t the only thing holding it in place thankfully
 

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Wrong taper make fit tight but ONLY nut/cotter pin holds it in

You make some dangerous assumptions


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Wrong taper make fit tight but ONLY nut/cotter pin holds it in

You make some dangerous assumptions


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If I remove the castle nut right now, everything stays in place, even while moving the steering wheel with the nut off. How can the nut be the only thing holding it on then? Genuine question.
 

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About as sensually as saying Russian roulette is ok as there are 5 empty chambers and I just tested once and lived

One bump and taper moves enough to jump out completely without nut holding it in tight to taper

Then that wheel goes outward and Jeep flips and you win the Darwin Award and unfortunately maybe kill someone else on the road


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About as sensually as saying Russian roulette is ok as there are 5 empty chambers and I just tested once and lived

One bump and taper moves enough to jump out completely without nut holding it in tight to taper

Then that wheel goes outward and Jeep flips and you win the Darwin Award and unfortunately maybe kill someone else on the road


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Fair enough, I’ll reinstall the old original links until new stuff arrives before driving again. Nothing was wrong with them, just replaced them do the upgrade, which turned out to be a downgrade.
 

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If tie rod taker hole is damaged they make sleeves to repair

What will or won’t work depends on just what is wrong

Example of sleeve


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Reinstalled original tie rods and drag links just now, took about 20min. Clearly less ball joint stud protruding now after torquing to 55ft lbs. I ordered the moog part numbers listed in multiple threads about doing the ZJ upgrade in the meantime.
4518566

4518565
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That does look better, but clearly there is a lot of stud up there, the cotter pins will only barely contact the crenulations on those.

What I really want to know is if its common for the holes in the knuckle to wear out or wallow out. This Jeep had such horrible death wobble that I believe it may have been driven with it for a while. No bump was required to start the wobble. It did it 4 times on the way home when I bought it. I suspect that the force and abuse could cause the holes in the knuckle to wallow out, I'd like to know if you guys know that to be a possibility, or think that could be a possibility, or if that's not a possibility at all.

I guess I should take measurements of the hole to see for sure. Does anyone know offhand what the inner diameter of those holes should be?
 

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That does look better, but clearly there is a lot of stud up there, the cotter pins will only barely contact the crenulations on those.

What I really want to know is if its common for the holes in the knuckle to wear out or wallow out. This Jeep had such horrible death wobble that I believe it may have been driven with it for a while. No bump was required to start the wobble. It did it 4 times on the way home when I bought it. I suspect that the force and abuse could cause the holes in the knuckle to wallow out, I'd like to know if you guys know that to be a possibility, or think that could be a possibility, or if that's not a possibility at all.

I guess I should take measurements of the hole to see for sure. Does anyone know offhand what the inner diameter of those holes should be?
Agreed, in my case I had very stable steering, zero shimmy or wobble. I should have the moog parts in a couple of days if we can’t get to the bottom of this. If they fit up the same way as the others, safer bet that the holes are out of spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Agreed, in my case I had very stable steering, zero shimmy or wobble. I should have the moog parts in a couple of days if we can’t get to the bottom of this. If they fit up the same way as the others, safer bet that the holes are out of spec.
Would you please post your results when you get those parts? I would greatly appreciate it.
 
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