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New to JKs so pardon my lack of knowledge but if I have a 2016 JKU and the 9/16 track bar bolt is too big, am I correct in assuming the clearance issue has been corrected and the factory 14mm bolt now has appropriate clearance? What then would be he advantage of using an after market track bar bolt?
 

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New to JKs so pardon my lack of knowledge but if I have a 2016 JKU and the 9/16 track bar bolt is too big, am I correct in assuming the clearance issue has been corrected and the factory 14mm bolt now has appropriate clearance? What then would be he advantage of using an after market track bar bolt?
As has been stated previously, you do not "need" aftermarket bolts at all as long as you pay very close attention to keeping your factory bolts properly torqued. However, the factory 14mm bolt is FULLY THREADED and if it loosens, there is a strong likelihood that the threads are going to gouge out the frame side bushing on the front track bar. The aftermarket 14mm bolt in the kit is only PARTIALLY THREADED and is less likely to do damage to the bushing. If you go to the Northridge web site they show a photo of the bolt kit. Note that all of the aftermarket bolts are only partially threaded. These are superior to fully threaded bolts IMO.
 

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New to JKs so pardon my lack of knowledge but if I have a 2016 JKU and the 9/16 track bar bolt is too big, am I correct in assuming the clearance issue has been corrected and the factory 14mm bolt now has appropriate clearance? What then would be he advantage of using an after market track bar bolt?
I just upgraded all my lower control arm and track bar bolts in my 2016 JKU Sport (built 4/16).

9/16 fit fine all around. Maybe the 2012+ 14mm bolt is a Rubicon thing.

I do have square holes in my front lower control arm brackets, frame side.
 

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Anyone here install the Northridge kit with an AEV 2.5" lift? Want to be certain I am thinking right so looking for experience here.

Looks like I will still use all of the bolts in the Northridge kit as AEV instructions have you reuse all of the factory bolts.

I'm also doing front drop brackets and AEV supplies a new bolt for the frame connection but calls for reusing the factory bolt to attach the drop bracket to the frame so I presume I can use one of the Northridge bolts on both sides for that? I'll use the Northridge bolts for the LCA axle connection and also the front factory track bar.

Rear LCA's bolts will all be replaced with Northridge. Anyone know if the AEV rear track bar will take the Northridge bolts? Instructions call to reuse factory bolts.

Thanks!
 

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You won't use the bolts on the drop brackets, they have smaller holes. I still used them on the CA to axel connection. You can use the on the rear track bar.
 

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Just got my Northridge grade 8 kit. So let me make sure I got this right in a nutshell. 8 9/16 bolts, 2 washers each & locknuts for all 4 LCAs. 4 smaller 9/16 bolts, 2 washers & nuts for front & rear TB, & 2 14mm bolts, washers & nuts for front & rear frame side TB bolts if the 9/16ths dont fit???
 

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Why no upper control arm bolt kits?
 

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Just got my Northridge grade 8 kit. So let me make sure I got this right in a nutshell. 8 9/16 bolts, 2 washers each & locknuts for all 4 LCAs. 4 smaller 9/16 bolts, 2 washers & nuts for front & rear TB, & 2 14mm bolts, washers & nuts for front & rear frame side TB bolts if the 9/16ths dont fit???
I just installed it a few weeks ago, and you are exactly right. So you should have two bolts left over, one way or another.

And I wish I had understood that before standing there wondering what I did wrong for an hour. :) I just didn't all make sense to me until I actually got there.
 

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I just installed it a few weeks ago, and you are exactly right. So you should have two bolts left over, one way or another.

And I wish I had understood that before standing there wondering what I did wrong for an hour. :) I just didn't all make sense to me until I actually got there.
Ha! Thanks for confirming OT!

I've only had the chance to do the front TB so far...9/16ths fit so looks like I'll be doing 9/16ths all around. 2015 JKR built 4/08/15
 

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And so...............for all of you that have gone before.........a couple questions before I change out with new hardware.
* Is there a definitive answer on using the lock nuts provided with the kit vs. Nylocks?
* Is there a reason not to just use red thread locker and be done?

I want to do everything possible to do this once. Understand I should re-check/re-torque as a maintenance issue, but I weigh 155 lbs. soaking wet. Last time I torqued the suspension bolts to 125 ft/pnds, it amounted to me doing chin ups or pulling myself across the garage floor on my back. Neighbors got a good laugh, chiropractor loved it. Me, not so much.
I do some moderate trails on occasion (Imogene/Tower Arch/Bill Moore Lake), more often neglected fire trails/wash boarded abandoned secondary gravel roads. In my case, anything I can do during initial install to extend the maintenance cycle closer to once a year?
 

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If it was me, I would NOT use nylon lock nuts, nor would I use thread locker. I would use the tempered steel lock nuts provided in the kit and a good torque wrench. I understand that re-torqueing is difficult esp. for someone your size, but maybe you can get a big friend to help you for an hour or two with the promise of a pizza dinner and beer afterward. Follow the directions in the kit for best results. They provide directions for a good reason. YMMV.
 

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If it was me, I would NOT use nylon lock nuts, nor would I use thread locker. I would use the tempered steel lock nuts provided in the kit and a good torque wrench. I understand that re-torqueing is difficult esp. for someone your size, but maybe you can get a big friend to help you for an hour or two with the promise of a pizza dinner and beer afterward. Follow the directions in the kit for best results. They provide directions for a good reason. YMMV.
There is a whole discussion about this in various forums. With that in mind, I am in the opposite opinion, I prefer Nylock or Nylon lock nuts for suspension components with two caveats, 1. Do not use in area subjected to heat more than 200-250 degree F and 2. Do not reuse too often, I would use it no more than 2-3 times and buy new nuts.

The Stover or Distorted thread nuts damage the threads as it is torqued and while it is good and has slightly better vibrational resistance, this requires that the bolt and nut be replaced after a couple of uses. This is good if you will torque once and basically forget it. People messing with their suspension and changing control arms and adjusting should be checking that the bolt threads aren't too worn. Also known to cause galling and removal is very difficult if threads damaged and corrosion has set in.
 

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Dealer over torqued bolts....any worries?

All,

Had the rig in to the dealer looking for a cure for some noise in the rear end. Told them not to touch the suspension bolts because they were all torqued to spec. So....what did they do? Wrenched down on many of the bolts.

When I did the AEV 2.5" I did the Northridge bolt upgrade.

Any chance of permanent damage by over torquing the bolts....bushings, etc.?

Going to get under there this weekend and loosen everything and retorque but wondering if I should be looking for any damage while doing so.

Thanks!

Todd
 

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All,

Had the rig in to the dealer looking for a cure for some noise in the rear end. Told them not to touch the suspension bolts because they were all torqued to spec. So....what did they do? Wrenched down on many of the bolts.

When I did the AEV 2.5" I did the Northridge bolt upgrade.

Any chance of permanent damage by over torquing the bolts....bushings, etc.?

Going to get under there this weekend and loosen everything and retorque but wondering if I should be looking for any damage while doing so.

Thanks!

Todd
Over torquing may have stretched the threads. That said how do you know the dealer over torqued things?
 

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Good write up by the OP. Maybe something for those us who tow the Jeep behind a Motor home. Do see a lot of threads on the RV forums about death wobble.
Still need to watch torque settings no matter what.
 

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So. Have the northride kit. Was all gunho an the first bolt I removed was the drivers side LCA. Err, Tried too remove. Couple things that I need guidance with. Standard and metric both seem to fit the same. Am I right in thinking metric is correct? Also, the two stock washers are.. strange. Are they to be reused (doesn't seem possible) and does the rig need to be off the ground? I couldn't even pound out the bolt. Got discouraged and put it back together. (The stock washers appear to be structurally significant and sorta rest/lock into the bracket)
 
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