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So. Have the northride kit. Was all gunho an the first bolt I removed was the drivers side LCA. Err, Tried too remove. Couple things that I need guidance with. Standard and metric both seem to fit the same. Am I right in thinking metric is correct? Also, the two stock washers are.. strange. Are they to be reused (doesn't seem possible) and does the rig need to be off the ground? I couldn't even pound out the bolt. Got discouraged and put it back together. (The stock washers appear to be structurally significant and sorta rest/lock into the bracket)
You have Cam Bolts to correct Caster. In your case, you need those, or you can buy Front Lower Control Arms and Cam Bolt Eliminator washers from Synergy or equivalent. Make sure you mark out orientations for ease of putting things back together.
 

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With stock bolts, there's no room for error; as soon as some bolt loosens slightly, the threads will gouge the adjoining parts. Also because the bolts are smaller than the holes they're in, the bolts further deform the holes where there is any shoulder. Even torqued properly, there's still undersized bolt looseness and movement within linkages that wear down parts and result in less accurate road handling.
Today I got my 2015 JK 2DR Rubicon bolts changed out using the Synergy complete hardware kit #8050-02 ordered from Quadratec for $165. Cost for shop labor was $170 for the entire job at Elias 4X4, Townsend MA.
The jeep has 4200 miles on it. There's noticeable improvement in road handling because there's no slop anymore from undersized bolts. With the stock bolts, no matter if torqued correctly, there's still play in the bolt fitment whenever parts are flexed, with less accurate road handling.
I also notice more road surface variations and small waves in asphalt road surface transferred into the jeep. I like this as it helps indicate road conditions better.
The suspension parts are all fitting snugly with the Synergy bolts, so the reason for the improvements. An excellent product and "mod"!
 

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I have the Northridge kit and installing TF lift. So, with this (or other) bolt upgrades, you use a washer and locking hex nut, despite that several of the stock nuts are flag nuts and all are flange nuts?
 

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I have the Northridge kit and installing TF lift. So, with this (or other) bolt upgrades, you use a washer and locking hex nut, despite that several of the stock nuts are flag nuts and all are flange nuts?
Yes, use only the kit hardware; the kits have better hardware than stock. Example: Synergy kit uses stover nuts, which don't loosen easily the way stock nuts do. St parts stay torqued completely.
 

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Just ordered a set. Are there instructions included on how to do it? With weight on the tires or off? Other help to make it as easy and turn out well. TIA


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Just got my Northridge grade 8 kit. So let me make sure I got this right in a nutshell. 8 9/16 bolts, 2 washers each & locknuts for all 4 LCAs. 4 smaller 9/16 bolts, 2 washers & nuts for front & rear TB, & 2 14mm bolts, washers & nuts for front & rear frame side TB bolts if the 9/16ths dont fit???
You can get the same stuff at Lowe's for around $8? I forget what I paid. It was around that.

Probably less.
 

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You can get the same stuff at Lowe's for around $8? I forget what I paid. It was around that.

Probably less.
You got all the grade 8 bolts, the washers and the locking nuts for less than $8?
 

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You got all the grade 8 bolts, the washers and the locking nuts for less than $8?
Are you talking about just the track bar? Whatever the case the prices are exorbitant for these things when bought from a Jeep parts seller.
 

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Are you talking about just the track bar? Whatever the case the prices are exorbitant for these things when bought from a Jeep parts seller.
No I was referring to the kit. I thought you were saying you got the entire "kit" of bolts etc. for $8.
And yes the kits are over priced, but I ran into issues sourcing all the bolts etc w/o going thru places like Fastenal... and they did not want to sell just a few... they wanted to sell the box/ bag full (100 pieces).
 

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You got all the grade 8 bolts, the washers and the locking nuts for less than $8?
That was my thought too, go to any hardware store and price out the grade 8 hardware for all 12 bolts, washers, nuts (2 front TB, 2 rear TB, 8 lower CAs) and you aren't going to save much if anything over the kits referenced in this thread.

If you're just doing trackbars definitely go the hardware store route, they get my business when I have any single bolt that needs replacing.
 

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FWIW, way back when everyone started to discover the issues with stock JK suspension bolts I got all of my 9/16" grade 8 replacements at the local ACE Hardware. This was before outfits like Northridge started selling their kits. The kits price out a bit less than buying the individual bits at the hardware store. The issues with the flly threaded standard 14mm stock bolts are really very well documented, so no need to repeat. Would just toss in that I've noticed the stock bolts can oval out the front axle lower and rear axle upper brackets that have the punch outs for cam bolts. In those cases Synergy's or Teraflex's Cam Bolt Eliminator kits work great, with or without changing the bolts.

The biggest wear issues with the stock bolts pop up on the front axle brackets due to the extreme forces exerted on them. Reinforcing the frame side bracket with the JKS, Synergy or Teraflex braces, and beefing up the axle side bracjket with a welded on washer and 9/16" bolts usually kils the issues for good. In all cases, torque to 125 ft lbs minimum and re-check regularly.
 

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This is probably a stupid question but I just bought a 2013 Wrangler. How can I tell if this change has already been done? What am I looking for?
Thanks!
 

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The stock bolts are 14" standard (fully threaded). They have a silverish, zinc like color to them. The Grade 8 9/16" upgrade bolts are shank-style and will likely be a goldish, cadmium plated color to them. The stock bolts have metric (18mm & 21mm) heads, the upgrade bolts at standard and will likely be 3/4" heads with 13/16" nuts. The upgrade bolts use washers, the stock bolts do not.
 

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The biggest wear issues with the stock bolts pop up on the front axle brackets due to the extreme forces exerted on them. Reinforcing the frame side bracket with the JKS, Synergy or Teraflex braces, and beefing up the axle side bracjket with a welded on washer and 9/16" bolts usually kils the issues for good. In all cases, torque to 125 ft lbs minimum and re-check regularly.
Right, and with the stock fully threaded bolt the slightest movement just saws at the brackets and bushing sleeves and wallows out fast where as the upgraded bolts have shoulders and won’t wallow out nearly as fast.
 

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Correct. The stock bolts work fine on a stock JK, but when you increase the wheel travel with a lift thets when the devil jumps up and they start to slip & cut into the brackets.
 

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Dumb question, but what are the specs of the 9/16 bolts legnth wise so I can go pick some up at local hardware store instead of buying them online? Need as much help as i can get lol!
 

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Saw some comments about the nylon locknuts galling when you try to remove them, you should make sure the exposed threads are clean before you try to remove it and also you should put some WD40 on the exposed threads to keep it from galling.

If you have ever worked with stainless bolts and stainless nylock nuts you even have to add WD40 even when you install it and for sure to remove it to keep it from galling.

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