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Discussion Starter #1
In my previous Grand Cherokee, (which was a 5.7 Hemi) it ran cool all the time - the needle had a slight lean to the cooler side and never once ventured past the mid point.

I'm noticing my JK, the 3.6 sits dead center and mostly just a tick to the warm side. Took it for the first long distance trip today and during some prolonged hill climbs of PA roads where a low gear / high rpm was needed, the temp gauge would even drift over toward the 4/5 warm point. Granted it never got there, mostly because I wasn't trying but it begs the question:

Does your Pentastar run warm?

(I should note that just under 600 miles on the odo in total and on the way home from this trip, the check engine light came on. So I'm not sure if that's related.)
 

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If you have the upgraded EVIC, you can see actual coolant temperature.
 

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If you have the upgraded EVIC, you can see actual coolant temperature.
I do, and I actually monitored it most of the drive, but it does swing in line with the actual gauge on the dash. I'm just wondering if everyone else's runs the same way or if this is indicative of a problem I need to have the dealer address before it turns into a problem.
 

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How hot was it getting in the EVIC? The fan should come on around 226 so you shouldn't see a lot higher than this.
 

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When I was towing a loaded 5x10 trailer full of mulch up our mountains here on the interstate I was pushing mine hard. I had it get up to 260 degrees when I had to do the last half of the hill in third gear just to stay above 55mph. I was focused too much on the temp to tell you what my RPMs were but I'm guessing around 3500. But as soon as I topped the hill and was able to get to fifth and about 65mph it dropped back down to the 215-220 range. Don't think i'd want to tow much around here but it did manage ok.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It sounds like this might be normal. I guess I'm just not used to having a vehicle that has a 'wagging' temp gauge. Every vehicle I've ever had once the temp reached normal it never really moved if it was operating correctly. Maybe I'll take some video on my next long trip so people can see what I'm talking about. Thx for the replies.
 

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Most vehicles' gauges are completely inaccurate. If you're within a temperature range the needle stays pegged at the center. If the Jeep's isn't like that, GOOD! If it's just going to be a digital needle, just replace it with an idiot light and stop pretending.
 

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The temp gauge on your dash is just an implied temp, not an actual reading. Your EVIC should show actual coolant temps. But to answer your question; yes, the 3.6 runs hot. Apparently that is where it is most efficient and happy. It freaked me out the first time I saw 230 degree temps but that is still not in the danger zone for the 3.6. As long as you hear the e fan kick on at 226 as was mentioned before, everything is operating as it should.
 

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I have a Bully Dog tuner with the dash monitor and regularly see 226-228 on mine. If in traffic, I can hear the fan come on around 226 and the temp drops down pretty quick. It ranges from 208-226. Wish my tuner would allow me to turn the fan on earlier. It does have a mode where the fan is always on but no way to just make it come on at a lower temp.
 

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Higher temp = higher efficiency = lower emissions. I don't understand the desire to run an engine cold, unless you're ACTUALLY running too hot. If 226 was too hot, we'd have learned about it a long time ago...Toyota bumped up the operating temp in the Camry 3.0 too high a few years back and engines were boiling off their oil and seizing in brand new cars. Took a class action lawsuit to get them to fess up.
 

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My 14 JKURX runs at 230 on a sunny day.....fan kicks in high as much as I can....I set all fan setting to high at lowest temp with my trail dash. I also set one of the gauges where I can watch it closely...it's set at 230 and constantly goes off. I may be weird but still changing my erl every 3k. With temps that high I just don't trust an aluminum block.
 

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The engine has been running this high for 3 years now. There's no mass accounts of overheating penastars in the JK. I think people are trying to find a issue where it does not exist. If it was a aluminum block and iron heads I could see a issue. Since they're the same material they should in theory expand all at the same rates ect. However I'm not a expert.
 

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I do, and I actually monitored it most of the drive, but it does swing in line with the actual gauge on the dash. I'm just wondering if everyone else's runs the same way or if this is indicative of a problem I need to have the dealer address before it turns into a problem.
So...what were your reading in the EVIC?
 

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same problem here - just finished a 800 miles trek through OH and PA and on some climbs going 65-70 MPH (regeared to 4.56 with 35s) I see 233-235 on EVIC. hard acceleration to highway speed (entrance ramp) - 228-230 in a matter of 10 seconds but also cools off right away. not sure if normal, will take to a dealer for a check when back
 

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same problem here - just finished a 800 miles trek through OH and PA and on some climbs going 65-70 MPH (regeared to 4.56 with 35s) I see 233-235 on EVIC. hard acceleration to highway speed (entrance ramp) - 228-230 in a matter of 10 seconds but also cools off right away. not sure if normal, will take to a dealer for a check when back
From what I have been reading it's totally normal......I guess new cars are all that way......I remember when putting 190 degree thermostat in a car would boost the performance but 230 scares me still...I guess I am just old fashioned.....I still change my oil under 5K and always will.....my Rubicon says 7500 miles and my BMW says 13k but it ain't happening in either!
 

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When I was towing a loaded 5x10 trailer full of mulch up our mountains here on the interstate I was pushing mine hard. I had it get up to 260 degrees when I had to do the last half of the hill in third gear just to stay above 55mph. I was focused too much on the temp to tell you what my RPMs were but I'm guessing around 3500. But as soon as I topped the hill and was able to get to fifth and about 65mph it dropped back down to the 215-220 range. Don't think i'd want to tow much around here but it did manage ok.

Joe
260F coolant temp? That sounds like trans temp to me, 260F coolant temp is definitely overheated and right at the edge of causing a 50/50 mix of coolant and water to boil over. That's not right or normal.
 

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same problem here - just finished a 800 miles trek through OH and PA and on some climbs going 65-70 MPH (regeared to 4.56 with 35s) I see 233-235 on EVIC. hard acceleration to highway speed (entrance ramp) - 228-230 in a matter of 10 seconds but also cools off right away. not sure if normal, will take to a dealer for a check when back
the high speed fan kicks on at 226. If it spikes but cools quickly then your system is working properly.
 

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I never seen a car that had engine temp gauge that would move that often. Seen it almost all the way to he 3/4 mark on climbs when I had my light installed on the bumper. Moved it over to the hood and still see it move to 5/8-2/3 position from the middle every time I keep RPMs around 3000. And after I regeared, 3k RPM is 80mph for me on my auto transmission
 

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The temp gauge on our JKs is not linear. Mine sits in the center of the gauge and doesn't move when the coolant temp is between 180F and 220F or so. I've never seen it move other than during warm-up. If you want to see the real coolant temp then look at the EVIC, the gauge is just there as a general guide. :(
 
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