2" of lift is not enough to effectively run 33" tires without fender mods. Your tires will encounter rubbing and clearance issues. 4" of suspension lift is recommended for 33" tires, but to do a straight up 4" suspension lift does require that you deal with drive line angles and the best way to do that is with an sye. What many do, is install a 3" suspension lift, and an 1"-1.25" body lift.
There are three ways a Jeep can be lifted. A suspension lift by replacing the stock springs with longer ones, A suspension lift by placing spacers on top of the springs (This is normally called a “budget boost), or a body lift which uses spacers between the factory body mounts and body or completely replaces the body mounts with taller ones.
There are also what is called leveling spacers used sometimes to install on top of springs on one end (typically on the front) to level the Jeep.
Leveling spacers is kind of a cheap way to get the Jeep to sit level. A better way is to replace the front springs with ones of a higher spring rate to carry the extra front end weight.
There are also those who will try and install budget boost spacers on top of lifted springs. This is not recommended as it leads to coil bind and a terrible riding Jeep.
Stock Jeep coil springs measure approximately 12” tall in front and 8” tall in the rear with the Jeep at ride height sitting on the ground. So to determine the amount of spring suspension lift, measure the front springs. Anything over 12” is the amount of spring suspension lift.
When you are checking the front springs, see if there is a spacer on the top of them. These can be anywhere from 3/4" to 3”. If there is one, measure the height of the spacer. This would be the amount of suspension budget boost or leveling spacer lift.
If you look just inside one of the rear tires where the frame goes up over the rear axle and the Jeep body meets the frame the stock distance there between the body and the frame is about 1/4". Anything more than that is the amount of body lift there is.