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Hello,
I have a 2009 JK Unlimited X, I have 32" tires without a lift, and no other mods. Jeep mostly used for highway driving with very occasional off-roading during the summer months.

I just had the ball joints replaced by a mechanic due to the death wobble, which fixed it, but was also told that I would soon need to replace the drag link. Since then the wobble has begun again. I am handy with tools, but have limited auto knowledge and have not done this repair before. I am thinking about doing it myself as the mechanic said it is not that difficult and I do like working on my Jeep myself if I can.

Any recommendations on a drag link that is not too expensive? (Hoping to spend under $200) Any tips on replacing these? Special tools required? And should I get my alignment checked following this?

I am in the Denver area if anyone would be interested in helping out!

Thanks!!
 

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You need a pickle fork, also known as a balljoint separator, available at any auto parts store. You dont need to get an alignment, but you will need to ensure that the drag link is set at the same length as your old one before you install it, if you have the steering wheel off by a full turn you will have problems. After you install it, you just need to fine tune the drag link so that your steering wheel is centered.
 

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Hello, I have a 2009 JK Unlimited X, I have 32" tires without a lift, and no other mods. Jeep mostly used for highway driving with very occasional off-roading during the summer months. I just had the ball joints replaced by a mechanic due to the death wobble, which fixed it, but was also told that I would soon need to replace the drag link. Since then the wobble has begun again. I am handy with tools, but have limited auto knowledge and have not done this repair before. I am thinking about doing it myself as the mechanic said it is not that difficult and I do like working on my Jeep myself if I can. Any recommendations on a drag link that is not too expensive? (Hoping to spend under $200) Any tips on replacing these? Special tools required? And should I get my alignment checked following this? I am in the Denver area if anyone would be interested in helping out! Thanks!!
Hi
There are people on this forum much more knowledgable than me however if your having death wobble problems I would check the trac bar and make sure it's tight.
It might be necessary to change to 9/16 I believe on the trac bar.
The drag link might help short term but may not be the problem.
 

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Hi There are people on this forum much more knowledgable than me however if your having death wobble problems I would check the trac bar and make sure it's tight. It might be necessary to change to 9/16 I believe on the trac bar. The drag link might help short term but may not be the problem.
Agree ^^
 

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I recently replaced just the drag link end at the pitman arm and was not too difficult. I tried the pickle fork and it would not work for me at all. I had posted a a how to guide for replacing the drag link end, but it will help you if you are replacing the entire drag link. I also posted pictures of the tool I used to separate the drag link from the pitman arm.

Here is my "how to" post

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/my-how-to-guide-to-replace-the-drag-link-end-at-the-pitman-arm-1300841.html
 

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^^ yep! :thumb: completely agree Ken, BFH is the tool of choice. most folks are a little unnerved at the thought of smacking the pitman arm with one though...
 

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Is it still local ?
yep - i see it every now and again. with mud on it... wasn't built for mud - just hope they're taking care of it.

this rubi is a lot of fun though. i have to admit the 3.6L engine is so nice. and all the buttons :lmao: oh the buttons are nice...
 

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yep - i see it every now and again. with mud on it... wasn't built for mud - just hope they're taking care of it. this rubi is a lot of fun though. i have to admit the 3.6L engine is so nice. and all the buttons :lmao: oh the buttons are nice...
I give you two years, D60's, 40's, hydro, coil overs lol
 

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I tried a pickle fork and beat the hell out of it and the pitman arm and my drag link would not budge. After 30 minutes of beating on it, I thought that I may break something. So, I bought the tool below and it took just a few minutes to pop the drag link loose.




 

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use a really heavy hammer? you need like a 3# sledge. typically a tap or two right on the face of the pitman arm and it'll pop.
Yes, I bought a 2.5 lb sledge hammer and beat the pickle fork. I also beat on the face of the pitman arm hoping that the vibration would pop the drag link loose but it did not work. The tool I posted above pushes the drag link stud out of the pitman arm. I got the bolt on that separator tool so tight that I thought the tool would break, but luckily it didn't. The drag link end finally popped loose with a very loud bang.
 

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Yes, I bought a 2.5 lb sledge hammer and beat the pickle fork. I also beat on the face of the pitman arm hoping that the vibration would pop the drag link loose but it did not work. The tool I posted above pushes the drag link stud out of the pitman arm. I got the bolt on that separator tool so tight that I thought the tool would break, but luckily it didn't. The drag link end finally popped loose with a very loud bang.
sounds about right... stinks you had all that trouble. did you remember to keep the castle nut on (loose), so it doesn't fall all the way through?
 

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sounds about right... stinks you had all that trouble. did you remember to keep the castle nut on (loose), so it doesn't fall all the way through?
Yes, I took the nut all of the way off then threaded it back on a few turns so that the drag link did not slam into my face when it popped loose. When the drag link end finally did pop loose, it shoots out with a very loud bang. Once I had that separator tool, it only took maybe 5 minutes to get the drag link end off.
 
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