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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 2013 4dr Rubicon. Looking at ordering the 4.5 AEV SC lift with 37" tires. The AEV website states you do not need to upgrade your drive shaft with their lift, along with the shop that will be doing the work for me. When I was researching lifts, almost every source stated that a new drive shaft is required(1310). Can anyone answer this question for me. Thanks in advance!
 

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You will deff need both front and rear shafts. You could probably wait until they start to show the boot splitting but i would just do it and get it over with. Paying the extra 6-800 is worth the ease of mind.

If im wrong im sure someone will correct me but from everywhere ive ever been anything over a 2.5 inch lift will needs new shafts eventually
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jackster3 said:
You will deff need both front and rear shafts. You could probably wait until they start to show the boot splitting but i would just do it and get it over with. Paying the extra 6-800 is worth the ease of mind.

If im wrong im sure someone will correct me but from everywhere ive ever been anything over a 2.5 inch lift will needs new shafts eventually
Thanks for the quick response. That's what I figured, just replace them now, and not worry later. Is there a brand that you would reccomend, or stay away from? I keep reading about Tom Wood's drive shafts as the way to go. Thanks again!
 

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I AM THERE4 I JEEP
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4 doors are more forgiving from the lift height and the position it puts on the front and rear shafts however that benefit ends above 2.5-3.0" of height. At 4.5 you will certainly need new shafts. Keep in mind that coil lifts grant more height than advertised. You will easily be over 5" of height. Most face replacing the shafts with some 2.5 and 3.0 coil lifts. This is especially true since you have a rubi and will be disconnecting the sway links for even more travel while wheeling. Those stock shafts are toast.
 

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I have the AEV 3.5 & I didnt do the drive shafts. I did do adjustable rear upper control arms to hopefully prolong the life of my rear shaft though, they'll be needed eventually anyway when I have to do it. The guys that did my lift said they do the 3.5 lift all the time & have jeeps with 30k plus on them with the oem driveshaft. I decided to wait and see but to expect to have to do them at any time. I figured why not get what I can out of them.

Not a clue what that extra .5 inch means in terms of life though.

I'm curious - don't you have to do adjustable front lowers with a new driveshaft? What does that mean for AEV's bracket?
 

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Sueby said:
I have the AEV 3.5 & I didnt do the drive shafts. I did do adjustable rear upper control arms to hopefully prolong the life of my rear shaft though, they'll be needed eventually anyway when I have to do it. The guys that did my lift said they do the 3.5 lift all the time & have jeeps with 30k plus on them with the oem driveshaft. I decided to wait and see but to expect to have to do them at any time. I figured why not get what I can out of them.

Not a clue what that extra .5 inch means in terms of life though.

I'm curious - don't you have to do adjustable front lowers with a new driveshaft? What does that mean for AEV's bracket?
Aev's bracket is just a cheap fix instead of paying 300-400 dollars for a pair of arms.

The common rule of law ive seen on all the threads is buy front lower control arms and rear upper control arms. Both help with the angle the driveshafts sit.
 

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You will need at least a front drive shaft for now,i have a 2013 jku with a rock krawler 2.5 lift(that is about a 3.5 inch lift with fresh springs) i put exhaust spacers already and when it is lifted in the air,the front drive shaft slip yoke boot digs into the exhaust,so i have to think the first time i flex it out it will tear up the boot quick.Look at the links for the adams drive shafts(best price on the net) i can only tell you about the price because i do not own them yet.
 

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You will need at least a front drive shaft for now,i have a 2013 jku with a rock krawler 2.5 lift(that is about a 3.5 inch lift with fresh springs) i put exhaust spacers already and when it is lifted in the air,the front drive shaft slip yoke boot digs into the exhaust,so i have to think the first time i flex it out it will tear up the boot quick.
Ditto here.

I'm fully expecting the boot on mine to shred when I flex it fully. I had it off the ground doing some welding work on the front axle and the boot was already touching.
 

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Yes. You will need front and rear driveshafts. Front immediately rear can wait. JKU and JKs have the same length front drive shafts. On a four door, the rear driveshaft is longer and when you lift a JKU the angle is less steep. Where as the JK or two doors have a shorter rear driveshaft and the angle is more steep with lift height.

I got 4.5" of lift on my JK and both stock driveshafts went out around 23,000 miles on the odometer.

You want to look at the top jk driveline mfgs for our JKS. Coast Drivelines, Tom Woods, JE Reel are the 3 most common and probably best out there. You cant go wrong with one over the other. I like Coast the best because they use splicer, american made parts, for all their drivelines. I suggest a double cardan CV 1310.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the great feedback everyone. Now that I'm researching drive shafts, why wouldn't you want to spend the extra couple hundred bucks for the 1350 over the 1310?
 

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And because pics are worth a thousand words... Here is my front DS after 1000-ish miles. Still no grease but now new DS's are on my short list. My rear would be fine but I like to use it to slide around on rocks:hide:
Front

Rear

From doing stuff like this:thumb:

This is on 3.5 inches of lift.
 

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Aev also tells you that the factory control arms with those crappy, stiff, anti-flexible rubber bushings are the best too. You will be $$ ahead avoiding companies that encourage you to use the factory CAs and driveshafts when installing a lift on your jeep.
 

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Ahh yes I love the pic of the critical angle shaft above spitting grease all over the place.
 
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