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So I buy this YJ and the front driveshaft is laying in the back bed of the Jeep and I can hear some bearing noise coming from the rear also. I buy 4 u-joints,, going to rebuild both. Start with the rear, while removing the front U-joint the caps were loose in the Yoke,,, buy new Yoke,, rebuild rear shaft, install, looks good. Front drive shaft, all cleaned up painted ready for U-joints, just for the heck of it, check runout,,, bitch is bent!! so now on to my question. Adams drive shaft, front with CV and Transfer case yoke, rear slip joint eliminator and drive shaft, almost $1000.00 worth of drive shafts and transfer case parts. Is all that worth the cost? or should I ask if it is necessary. I have to buy a front anyway.
 

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First off, I'd advertise on CL for a used driveshaft. When you go to look at any responders, take the bent one with you to compare. Another source is car-part.com.

Secondly, do you have a lift, and if so, how tall? What tires are you running or plan on running?
That will determine if you "need" a SYE. If you don't need one, I suggest you repair the old rear driveshaft and see how it works. Even if you repair it and then find out it has some other damage, you're not out a lot of money. Not buying a SYE will free up the money for other mods.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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Back in the 90's i read in magazines that stock YJ front driveshafts were weak but i never twisted mine. A friend of mine went though countless front driveshafts every time he twisted one he would buy another used one off ebay and twist it again. In the end he should have bought a heavy duty shaft and warrantied it out if he twisted it again. hindsight is always 20/20.

If you run a double cardan front shaft the t-case yoke is different and will need to be replaced with a yoke made for a CV shaft. The angle of the shaft needs to be pointed at the t-case yoke to run properly. TJ guys would know more about this issue and how far out of alignment you can run them before you get vibrations. I had a CV front shaft in my YJ for about a year and i loved it but it had about 4" of lift and the angle of the shaft just happened to end up about perfect so i had no problems. It ran VERY smooth because i took the time to measure it all to make sure it would run in my application.

Now that i got rid of my D30 and changed things around i am still running the CV shaft just because i already had it. But now i have locking hubs so i dont get any of the benefits of it running smoothly because it never turns. Locking hubs are a better way of eliminating front driveshaft vibration but also very expensive and not even worth the expense on a stock D30.
 

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I found a nice used TJ CV dive shaft that had been beefed up on CL. The seller had done a small block and drive line conversion so he didn’t need it anymore. So that is what I would look for.

I will say fixing all your drive line angles and new u joints really makes a world of difference. The CV front drive shaft was just icing on the cake.

I’m running RE 4.5” lift springs, which is more than 4.5” lift by the way, and corrected my caster angle to +8* and the drive shaft angle is “almost” perfect. I now have no vibration at any speed/rpm.
 
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