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So here's what I'm thinking. I just put a lift on today that netted 3.5" in front and 2.75" in back of a JK. If it doesn't settle I'm concerned about my d/s. I will post here if/when I have an issue and will check them weekly to see if worth reporting.

What I am asking the rest of you is if you HAD to replace your d/s:
What year?
JK or JKU?
How much actual net lift?
How much time/miles did it last?

Also, d/s recommendations or ones to avoid?

Why is aftermarket better than OEM?
 

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So here's what I'm thinking. I just put a lift on today that netted 3.5" in front and 2.75" in back of a JK. If it doesn't settle I'm concerned about my d/s. I will post here if/when I have an issue and will check them weekly to see if worth reporting.

What I am asking the rest of you is if you HAD to replace your d/s:
What year?
JK or JKU?
How much actual net lift?
How much time/miles did it last?

Also, d/s recommendations or ones to avoid?

Why is aftermarket better than OEM?
There are two main reasons for needing a new ds with a lift: the first is that your lift has raised your Jeep to the point that the ds is at a fatal angle, meaning there is too much stress on it and it will eventually fail. It may take 6 months, a year, or more to fail, but eventually it's gonna go...

The 2nd reason mainly has to do with the '12's, and is dependent on the length of your aftermarket shocks. Shocks with 27.5" of travel or more will cause the front ds to hit the exhaust crossover when your swaybars are disco'd and the shocks are fully extended.

Here are two photos: First one is of my stock front ds (gray) next to the 1310 JE Reel I installed with my 3" FT lift. Notice the boot on the stock ds. That's what causes most of the problems when making contact with the exhaust...boot tears, grease flies out over time, ds seizes.
View attachment 94800

Second photo is the clearance I had WITH the JE Reel, and with the heat shield on my exhaust removed (not needed for a ds w/out a boot). Jeep is on a lift with shocks fully extended. Once I put it back on the ground, adjusted caster, and torqued everything to spec there was more room, but not a lot.
View attachment 94801

The JK, with it's shorter wheelbase, is more susceptible to this than the 4-dr...to the extent that higher lifts (nobody really seems to know how high, from what I've been able to find out) will also affect the rear ds, as well.

I know that Full Traction recommended that I get a replacement rear ds with my lift...eventually. Steve, the FT engineer, said it wasn't an immediate need, but that I oughta budget for one.

There are three big ds makers, all of which have equally competent replacement driveshafts: Tom Woods, JE Reel and Coast. Most of us will want the 1310 size; 1350's are beefier, and intended for higher lifts.

As you'll notice from the comparison photo above, the replacement ds is thinner than the stocker, and doesn't have the vulnerable boot. They are also much stronger than the ones that come stock on the Jeep (is this a surprise?), and will handle much greater torque angles.
 

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The other option is to buy a $40 exhaust spacer which drops the crossover portion giving you the clearance you need. With that though you get a lowered exhaust. Still, $40 vs ~$450 for a new drive shaft. At least it gives you time to save some pennies for a new drive shaft.
 

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I AM THERE4 I JEEP
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Wouldn't that only solve the "coming into contact with the exhaust issue" though? He would still need to address the shaft's angle correct?
 

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Wouldn't that only solve the "coming into contact with the exhaust issue" though? He would still need to address the shaft's angle correct?
Yep. I got a JE Reel 1350 DS because I knew I likely eventually was going to need an new front DS anyway. I' also putting an exhaust spacer on next week just to ensure I have enough clearance when flexing the front.

I'll put a 1350 rear on eventually.
 

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Wouldn't that only solve the "coming into contact with the exhaust issue" though? He would still need to address the shaft's angle correct?
:thumb:
 

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Yep. I got a JE Reel 1350 DS because I knew I likely eventually was going to need it anyway. I' also putting an exhaust spacer on next week just to ensure I have enough clearance when flexinfg the front.
I'm actually considering doing the TF spacer, as well. Even though my ds clears, I'd feel better with the increased clearance.
 

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I'm actually considering doing the TF spacer, as well. Even though my ds clears, I'd feel better with the increased clearance.
I thought I remembered reading about another option instead of the spacer. TF I think was the first to jump on this (with their spacer solution) but there may be another.
 

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Can't hurt. Have you heard anything about the Synergy DSs?
Nope. Got a link?

I thought I remembered reading about another option instead of the spacer. TF I think was the first to jump on this (with their spacer solution) but there may be another.
Hmmm. That would be interesting. Not the AFE Y-pipe, is it?
 

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You may want to search the TF thread they put up about the spacer when it first came out. I believe it was there that I read about it. I don't TF responded to the other option because they are hoping to move the spacers instead of something else. I think they are working on an additional solution too. Lemme see if I can find it.

It may have been here in the replies -
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/teraflex-2012-jk-exhaust-spacers-install-video-116226.html
 

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Nope. Got a link?

Synergy Suspension :: Jeep JK :: Drive Shafts :: Synergy Suspension 07+ Jeep JK 1310/1350 Drive Shaft Upgrade

Synergy Suspension Jeep JK 1310/1350 Rear/Front Drive Shaft Upgrade

One thing I'm curious about (I'll probably just have to call JE Reel) is why the JE Reel JK DSs are specific to (i) 2007-2011 yrs versus 2012+ years; and (ii) auto versus manual. Whereas the Rugger Ridge and Synergy DSs are only specific to 2DR versus 4DR (which obviously the JE Reel ones are too). I wonder if the Reel ones are more specifically designed for my vehicle ('12 JKUR Auto) than some others, or if that's a non-issue?
 

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Interesting. First I've seen of those...I'll have to keep an eye out for any reviews/threads on em.

Thanks for the link. :thumb:

One thing I'm curious about (I'll probably just have to call JE Reel) is why the JE Reel JK DSs are specific to (i) 2007-2011 yrs versus 2012+ years; and (ii) auto versus manual. Whereas the Rugger Ridge and Synergy DSs are only specific to 2DR versus 4DR (which obviously the JE Reel ones are too). I wonder if the Reel ones are more specifically designed for my vehicle ('12 JKUR Auto) than some others, or if that's a non-issue?
I don't know. I'd be curious about the answer to that, as well. However, if I had to choose, I think I'd rather have one that's engineered specifically for my 6-speed manual 4-door.
 

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Wouldn't that only solve the "coming into contact with the exhaust issue" though? He would still need to address the shaft's angle correct?
Didn't say it would solve the problem completely. Just buy you a little more time to save up for a new DS. Dropping an extra $450 isn't in everyones immediate budget.
 

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You may want to search the TF thread they put up about the spacer when it first came out. I believe it was there that I read about it. I don't TF responded to the other option because they are hoping to move the spacers instead of something else. I think they are working on an additional solution too. Lemme see if I can find it.

It may have been here in the replies -
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/teraflex-2012-jk-exhaust-spacers-install-video-116226.html

Yeah, it must the AFE Y-pipe I mentioned above. Couldn't find a reference to anything else other than the TF spacer in the thread.

The problem I have with the AFE is that they company has thus far not released dyno information (last I heard, anyway). Which means they either haven't done it (hard to believe), or they have and the results were not favorable.

I'd rather add the TF spacer, which I KNOW will keep the two pipe extensions equal length, than risk the more costly y-pipe, personally.
 

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...Here are two photos: First one is of my stock front ds (gray) next to the 1310 JE Reel I installed with my 3" FT lift. Notice the boot on the stock ds. That's what causes most of the problems when making contact with the exhaust...boot tears, grease flies out over time, ds seizes.

Just to clear up any confusion, the big boot in the middle/top of the shaft is for the slip joint. It has nothing to do with the fatal angle problem. It simply covers the slip joint and helps to keep dirt and crap out of it and the little bit of grease on it. The boot isn’t required - you can see the new shaft has a slip joint too, but no boot to keep dirt and crap out of it.

OTOH - the small round boot at the end of the shaft is the boot that keeps in the grease in the CV joint and that’s where you see the failure of the shaft occur if you have a bad angle.
 

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Didn't say it would solve the problem completely. Just buy you a little more time to save up for a new DS. Dropping an extra $450 isn't in everyones immediate budget.
:thumb: We are here to help and just trying to clarify.
 

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Didn't say it would solve the problem completely. Just buy you a little more time to save up for a new DS. Dropping an extra $450 isn't in everyones immediate budget.
Yeah, I get the impression (I could be wrong) that if you drive it only on the street or occasionally on mild trails, a stock front DS with a 3"-4" lift might last quite a while.
 

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Yeah, it must the AFE Y-pipe I mentioned above. Couldn't find a reference to anything else other than the TF spacer in the thread.

The problem I have with the AFE is that they company has thus far not released dyno information (last I heard, anyway). Which means they either haven't done it (hard to believe), or they have and the results were not favorable.

I'd rather add the TF spacer, which I KNOW will keep the two pipe extensions equal length, than risk the more costly y-pipe, personally.
I think DJstorm used the Y-pipe or re routed his some how. We were just talking about while riding in his this past weekend. PM him and see if your curious.
 

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Yeah, I get the impression (I could be wrong) that if you drive it only on the street or occasionally on mild trails, a stock front DS with a 3"-4" lift might last quite a while.
That's what I've heard, too. Especially on JKF...lotta guys there drive em till they fail, then replace em.

I'd rather be proactive, personally. :)
 
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