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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Not to quibble, but no edit, Dwight -- it went on the internet pure and complete as you see it. You're gonna have to get that prescription checked. ;)

Just curious why you'd want them unpainted? Can't you just paint over them if you don't want black?
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
By the way, I will add that if money is at all tight for somebody, trimming the plastic OEM liners and sticking them back in would be a great money-saver on this project. The aluminum looks really good, but honestly you don't see it all that well in most light and the liners are the expensive part. The fenders for $500 all-in are a good deal.
 
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They look really good. I would like to support an American company when I purchase fenders but as of right now these are the ones the Boss likes other than the Ace fenders and they do not have the rears yet. Thanks for the pics and right up.
 

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@NoGaBiker I guess I do need a prescription lol. It's just preference for me for having it two tone. Rub rails black/and remainder to match my jeep. I could take it to a shop and have them blast it/repaint to my liking. These are on my list. I like the looks, and really like the price. Gonna visit some shop next week and get some estimates for repaint. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The rear fenders arrived Monday and I had a chance to install them this evening. Or try.

1) Both front and rear fenders arrived without any installation instructions. While not hard, per se, there is nothing intuitive about installation. I emailed the company and got a quick reply last week from Randy, along with a PDF of the instructions. But take warning if you buy them: they were 0-for-2 on my fenders (both liner boxes had instructions in them), so ascertain whether you have them. Would suck to start the project Saturday morning only to discover they are closed and you have no instructions. (couldn't find a copy on the internet either, or any other installation youtubes.)

Okay, the only other problem is not DV8s fault. With the front fenders you can easily reach behind all six or seven of the fasteners and just run a locking nut onto them. Easy peasy. But the rear sheet metal, with the exception of two places, offers no access to the backside. You are mounting into an enclosed box. So they have you install Rivnuts (rivet nuts) into eight of the existing 10 holes the OEM plastic fender anchors were snapped into. This requires a rivnut tool, which I had (and if you don't, they're about 30 bucks on Amazon; order when you order the fenders.) So far so good. I compressed all five of the rivnuts into the sheetmetal without problem.

Then I hung the fender in place and started running the bolts into the rivnuts. Three worked great, but the last two began spinning before I'd gotten the bolts even snug. I couldn't even back them out. Tried every locking pliers I had to grap the thin crown of the rivnut to get it to hold still, but they kept spinning. Wound up using cutoff tool to cut the heads off the bolts so I could get the fender back off. Then spent an hour with every tool I know of, plus searching the 'tube for "How to remove spinning rivnut". Lots of people asked that quesion on the internet, and nearly everybody who answered said, "Drill it out." Do they not realize that a spinning rivnut spins? If you try drilling it out, it spins at 500rpm. And you can't tear up the thin sheetmetal getting it out, or you won't be able to put another one in its place.

Finally, I simply cut the bolts off flush, hung the fender back in place with the good bolts, drilled new holes in the fender next to the last two mounting spots with the spinning nuts, drilled those holes on through the body sheet metal. Then I pulled the fender back off, used two of the rivnuts from the pax side, crimped the beJEEBUS out of them, put the fender back on and this time they held for me to tighten everything down.

But I was now two rivnuts and 2 M6x40mm bolts short for the other side and it was 7:30 and the hardware stores are closed. I ran up to Home Depot (1/2 mile away) but they had no rivnuts.

So the pax side still proudly wears the OEM plastic fender. Hopefully tomorrow.

One note. There's absolutely no reason to drop $325 on the rear liners. They look nice but unlike the fronts, the rear looks just fine without any liners. Save your coin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Update Wednesday: Nobody local stocks M6 rivnuts (or any rivnuts, for that matter.) Tried local Ace Hdwr, Grainger, Fastenal. McMaster Carr is too far away.

So ordered them from Amazon. Arriving Friday. Should finish project on Friday evening or Saturday.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
On Friday my Amazon-ordered M6x1.0 rivnuts arrived, so yesterday morning I knocked out the last fender. Knowing how to do everything now should have allowed me to complete the job in a half hour or so. I popped the plastic fender off, popped the plastic clips out of the holes, wiped down the now-exposed fender sheet metal with some cleaner (for aesthetics), and squeezed my five rivnuts in. Then I held the fender up and started running the five bolts into them. Everything lined up, everything threaded on without a problem. Whew!

Then I started tightening them down, running each of them in snug before cranking down on any of them. That's when I realized that apparently the fender is slightly twisted -- not so you'd know just eyeballing it. But the rear edge and the top edge align just right with the body panel and even just snugging them down lightly the gap disappears. But at that point the front edge, the long downward-sloping edge, was a half-inch away from the body.

Suffice it to say that I backed all bolts out and tried to run the fronts in first, with no binding pressure from the rears being tight. Made no difference. And now I'm starting to worry about the rivnuts beginning to spin from the high torque I'm having to employ on the front three fasteners.

In the end I was able to get the rear and top edges to seal perfectly, and the fronts as close as a quarter inch (at worst, down at the bottom) tapering to a good seal about half-way up the leading edge. But this caused the radiused bend -- where the fender transitions from the horizontal top edge to the sloping front edge -- to bow out a little bit also. It's mechanically rock solid and the fasteners are run all the way in. So I shot a bead of black flexible outdoor caulk in the gap and will be going with that. The option of trying to pull it off and send it back and get a replacement is just more than I'm willing to go through.

Pics to follow as soon as I go outside with my camera.

So... Final analysis: Well-built product for a reasonable price. Absolutely no reason to buy rear liners -- I'm going to return mine. Front liners look great and clean up what would be an unfinished looking cavern without them. Driver's front liner clanged a little till I placed some double-sided tape under a rub-spot. I suspect that will wear down and have to be tended to occasionally. Three of four fenders fit perfectly, fourth not so much. Look of the Jeep is slightly improved, clearance much improved. A great alternative for somebody who wants to run a larger tire without a tall lift. If you are a perfectionist or have those tendencies, the possible imperfect fit of one of the fenders (assuming mine wasn't just a once-in-a-lifetime fluke) might drive you crazy. If you're like me and have already scratched things up from limbs, etc. then it's easy to move past.
 
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NGB, thanks for the follow up.
 

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So I'm pretty sure the fenders are also sold under the brand Barricade which is sold by Extreme Terrain. I think someone on this forum was given these fenders by Extreme Terrain to do a write up on. They had the exact same issue you did on the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
So I'm pretty sure the fenders are also sold under the brand Barricade which is sold by Extreme Terrain. I think someone on this forum was given these fenders by Extreme Terrain to do a write up on. They had the exact same issue you did on the rear.
Interesting -- the Barricade fenders on the ET webpage certainly look identical to these, down to the mounting hardware that's visible. Of course, there's only so many ways you can hang these off the sides of a JK, but still, they do look the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Final pictures

Here are a couple shots of the finished product. Visually, they make it look like I have a much higher lift. And also they make the tires look smaller. If I had chosen my tires on the basis of aesthetics, I'd be a little pissed. Just be aware of that if you're contemplating any flatties.

Cheers!





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Impressive. Completely changes the look for the better. Really enhances the overall build you have to date. Everything is modern but staying old school.
 

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Looks good......!
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Impressive. Completely changes the look for the better. Really enhances the overall build you have to date. Everything is modern but staying old school.
Thanks Bill. You completely get what I was going for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Thanks, Jumby. I sawed holes in my hood about six weeks ago. I was amazed at how hot it is under there every time I open my hood, and decided to try it with these. I keep meaninng to do a thermocouple reading of temp and then plug them and see how much hotter it gets, but the lazy is strong in this one.
 

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do you have any pictures of a straight shot from the side? Also a back to front shot? Would you recommend these? I am torn between these and bushwackers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I currently only have the pictures I showed -- I'll take some more tonight when I get home. A profile shot is not a problem. Back-to-front, not sure what you mean exactly. The first pic in post No. 52 is from the back, along the drivers side. Would you like to see something different? Just let me know and I'll shoot them that way.

As for this vs. Bushwacker -- I made the decision to order these instead of BWs a few weeks ago, as described in the first few posts of this thread. When I saw them they seemed solid, and the front liners are a unique differentiator. Of course, the front DV8 liners can be used with BW fenders if you prefer. I just figured why not stay with the same brand. I believe the BWs are over $600 and these were right at $500 from DV8. Someone with BW experience might chime in with reasons the BWs are worth the price delta; I don't know the answer to that myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Okay, here are some more pictures -- hopefully this shows what you're looking for, Matothett.











 
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