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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been looking at the Dynatrac and Teraflex housings and am wondering if the clearance advantage of the Dynatrac is worth a few hundred dollars more. Also, is there a compelling reason to choose one or the other?

Have you guys used any forum vendors to get good pricing?

I think I may also re-gear when I do this. I am not liking the 4.10s with 35s. Leaning towards the 4.56 Yukon gears (2012 2-door Auto Rubicon with 35s) but some are advising the 4.88. I am looking at the chart but wanted some real-world experiences and your thoughts.

If anyone has used either 4.56 or 4.88 on a 3.6 Pentastar, please let me know what you think. On paper, the 4.56 makes sense but I do live in the mountains at 6,000 feet and go above 11,000 feet...sometimes 12,000+.
 

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I have 4.56's with 35's in the flatlands where we have to struggle to find any elevation much over 1,000 ft. They're fine here. I'm not sure how the elevation affects the 3.6. I would have considered 4.88's if I lived that high up.
 

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i dont think Yukon makes 4.56 for a D44.

at least not front and rear.

I have Yukons ready to install, 4.88

I would definatly go dynatrac. Cant miss with their stuff.
 

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Yeah, I now think Dynatrac is the way to go here. I checked and Yukon does not make 4.56s though apparently they will soon, since they have a part number for it. So I will need to either go 4.88s or go with Nitro. Nitro makes 4.56s and are apparently very good as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, my OEM axle has EVO sleeves welded on at the ends. I will need to remove those for the Dynatrac to fit. Will my axle shaft then be the weak point?
 

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The ProRock is the better choice and yes, your stock axle shafts will be the weak link in that setup. Assuming you're getting this housing, you're running larger tires? If so, I would recommend running chromo shafts (not RCVs) Reason being that RCVs will not break and that will make your fuse the R&P, which isn't an everyday trail fix. Chromo shafts, standard spicer u-joints and let the joints be the fuse. Will be very tough to break them, but on the off chance you do, chances are you won't bend the ears on your shafts and you'll be back on the trail in half an hour if you have spares.

Nitro makes a very good quality set of gears and as you mentioned, they are available in 4.56s. I would highly recommend taking a look at Motive Gear as well on the 4.56s. They're also available and the brand I run in my own rig. For the budget minded Yukon has the cheaper USA Standard 4.56, but it's not quite as much as a quiet gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Haha, I am far from it. I am basically desperate to get rid of this pull to the right. Looks like (from the alignment shop and the Jeep Lead technician) that the same installer who did all my work, also screwed up some welding and may have overheated the Cs when welding on the gussets. So now I have one degree higher caster on the right (4.6 vs. 3.7) and it still pulls to the right. Next steps- AEV drop brackets and a Bilstein steering stabilizer. After that, I may have to pull the trigger on this housing and axles and gearing- may as well do all those at one shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not any more Now the lower right is a bit longer- maybe 1/8 inch longer. That results in almost a one degree higher caster on the right side (4.6 vs 3.7) to combat the pull...did that on purpose. It has helped slightly but it still pulls to the right. AEV brackets and Bilstein stabilizer are on hand now.
 

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Not any more Now the lower right is a bit longer- maybe 1/8 inch longer. That results in almost a one degree higher caster on the right side (4.6 vs 3.7) to combat the pull...did that on purpose. It has helped slightly but it still pulls to the right. AEV brackets and Bilstein stabilizer are on hand now.
Awesome. The SS might help combat the right pull with a left push.
My 7000 has a good push.
 
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