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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, Im new to the forum and just got my first JK. That being said, I already want to start the modifications. Right now I have a 2016 JKU auto Black Bear edition in Tank. Plan is to put a Teraflex S/T3 kit on paired with their falcon shocks and run 35 inch tires. However, being the idiot that I am, I didn't realize that i only have 3.21 gearing in the jeep.

So my plan is to strengthen my axles first. Would it be easier (more cost effective and smarter) to regear both the front Dana 30 and rear Dana 44 to 4.10 and while they are down there add two Elockers, swap the front axle completely with a Dana 44 geared in 4.10 with an Elocker and just regear the rear and add an Elocker, or swap both axles completely with the lockers already installed?

These are the axles I was looking at. They are just the crate mopar replacement axles.
Jeep Wrangler Crate Axle (Part No: P5153825AH)

and

Jeep Wrangler Crate Axle (Part No: P5153826AE)

Its gonna be a DD with no extreme rock crawling but I would like to start doing some trails on the weekends and take it camping with my family. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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For your intended use there's no need to replace the front axle. A simple re-gear will allow you to run 35's, but ideally you'll want to go steeper than 4.10's for 35's since you have to re-gear anyway.
 

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A good chunk of the forum will tell you 4.10 isn't high enough for 35s but your approach does have the advantage of being basically "bolt-on" and can be done on the floor of the garage with a couple dollies.

Re-gearing is definitely not for the average novice mechanic so that means a trip to your local 4x4 shop and installation costs.

If you do decide to go crate axles and plan on doing the install yourself, there is a good thread on it here... http://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/rubiconization-diy-axles-swap-1744922.html
 

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A good chunk of the forum will tell you 4.10 isn't high enough for 35s[/URL]
And I will be the first to do it. If you are going to re-gear 4.56 at a minimum and if you are at altitude and hill country or plan tow 4.88. Off road capability will be better with 4.88.
 

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Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? (or did you mention it and i missed it)

4wheel parts sometimes has a re-gear special for $1099 for both axles. I dont know what they would charge to add a locker to that.

You might also find some rubicon complete axles on craigslist or something that have the e-locker and 4.10

I actually bought two of the g/2 Core44 axles with arb lockers and just did a complete axle swap for both. but that was a $6500 hit to the wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the quick responses guys! I an automatic transmission and have heard mixed feelings on gearing to 4.10, 4.56, and 4.88 for 35s. Is it all preference? I live in PA so there is a decent amount of hills and elevation changes. I think i might have to go to 4wd in Ohio to figure out the best option for pricing and everything.

Waynem thanks for the thread, if i swap them, it will definitely come in handy. Also, nice white bear build! What gearing do you have for those duratracs?

Also it appears that the pictures are the same but in the description of the axles one says front and the other says rear... except the bullet points both say rear! lol
 

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I would probably do no less than 4.56 if you live in a hilly area with 35's. I would probably not lock the front end. Just add some gussets to the C's and gear the front. Lock the rear and you should get through most everything with it
 

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Waynem thanks for the thread, if i swap them, it will definitely come in handy. Also, nice white bear build! What gearing do you have for those duratracs?
Thanks. I'm having fun building it up.

I'm currently running 3.73. It's "ok" but bogs down in the mountains around here. I'll be regearing to 4.88 this summer and adding ARB lockers.

Still debating replacing the front axle with a G2 or Teraflex TF44. Or I just run with the Dana30 until I break it and go directly to 60s ?
 

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If you're swapping to crate axles, at least get the J8 front housing.

Jeep JK Rubicon HD J8 Front & OE Rear Dana 44 Axle Assemblies w/ Lockers & 4.10 Ratio

Also, for your described intended usage, there's probably no need to replace the D30 up front or even lock the axles. Your jeep is incredibly capable stock, especially for trail riding and camping trips. There's a lot of fear mongering that goes around on in the jeep community about the D30 as if it's not a decent axle, IMHO, and a lot of people are afraid of doing *anything* with their jeeps without a D44 up front and a pair of lockers... It's not like it's the weakest point in a bulletproof system. Sports and Saharas are *still* decent trail rigs. YMMV, but (again IMHO) it wouldn't be the first thing I replaced. Wheel your jeep, then decide what *you* need based on how *you* use it.

But I tend to agree with the other posters on your ratio choice, you're probably not going to be completely happy with the 4.10s, especially after dropping the coin to replace the axles.
 
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4.88 for the gears.

A D30 will be fine with 35s for a mild use rig. Folks act like a D30 will self implode in the driveway. Don't beat on it, don't gear it too low, dont put a larger than 35 tire, don't lock it, truss and gusset it, keep an eye on ball joints and Axle shafts - and enjoy your Jeep. For what 99% of the folks here on WF do with their Jeep, it is a fine axle.

If you do lock the front, just be cognizant it is a locked D30 with small ring and pinion. Easy on the skinny pedal. If you feel the axle hopping or the "hey hold my beer and watch this" bounce, or feel excessive wheel spin - turn off the skinny pedal pronto.
 
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4.88 for the gears.

A D30 will be fine with 35s for a mild use rig. Folks act like a D30 will self implode in the driveway. Don't beat on it, don't gear it too low, dont put a larger than 35 tire, don't lock it, truss and gusset it, keep an eye on ball joints and Axle shafts - and enjoy your Jeep. For what 99% of the folks here on WF do with their Jeep, it is a fine axle.

If you do lock the front, just be cognizant it is a locked D30 with small ring and pinion. Easy on the skinny pedal. If you feel the axle hopping or the "hey hold my beer and watch this" bounce, or feel excessive wheel spin - turn off the skinny pedal pronto.
I'm curious why you often recommend gears that are on the over-geared/rock crawler side of the gearing charts which you often refer to?

The OP stated:
Its gonna be a DD with no extreme rock crawling but I would like to start doing some trails on the weekends and take it camping with my family.
yet you are recommending 4.88 gearing that is listed on your gearing charts as: "fair daily driver, full time OD use, rock crawling, higher elevations"

instead of 4.56 gears which are listed as: "good daily driver, full time OD use, moderate trail use, changing elevations"

Seems the 4.56 listed traits are right on the money.

Considering it is his daily driver, wouldn't he prefer "good daily driver" gears over "fair daily driver" gears?

Just curious If I'm missing something, or if the charts are inaccurate?
 

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Currently running a reinforced D30 (truss, gusset and sleeve) with 35s and a front locker, and 4.56 ratio. Similar usage to the OP (trails, mild rock-crawling and DD). All in all it is perfectly adequate.

I wanted to replace the front axle, but couldn't find a good enough deal (especially since I would have the work done by a shop rather than doing it myself). I figure that if and when it breaks I'll have it replaced with a built D44, but not before then.
 

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I'm curious why you often recommend gears that are on the over-geared/rock crawler side of the gearing charts which you often refer to?

The OP stated:

yet you are recommending 4.88 gearing that is listed on your gearing charts as: "fair daily driver, full time OD use, rock crawling, higher elevations"

instead of 4.56 gears which are listed as: "good daily driver, full time OD use, moderate trail use, changing elevations"

Seems the 4.56 listed traits are right on the money.

Considering it is his daily driver, wouldn't he prefer "good daily driver" gears over "fair daily driver" gears?

Just curious If I'm missing something, or if the charts are inaccurate?
4.88 is perfectly fine for street gearing for 35s. Sure 4.56 would work as well. 4.88 doesn't take you super low, gives you a little extra power over 4.56. I would always "err" on the side of gearing a little lower (higher number) than a little higher between the two. But again, either would work. Also for OP to consider - they live in PA. The parts of PA I have seen had a lot of really steep hills - the kind they put runaway truck ramps on in spots (in case of big truck brake failure they have a pullout with gravel or sand or something to slow the trucks).
 
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