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Discussion Starter #1
The guy i bought my tj from did an electric fan conversion and it has worked great until yesterday. The fuse connected directly to the fan had the plastic on top melt onto the connection and caused the fan to not work therefore causing everything to overheat and the coolant to boil over. i am wondering if there is a way to better insulate the fuse so that the next one i put in doesn't melt from the heat? any other suggestions? thank you in advance!
 

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Post some pics of the setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Maybe a more heavy duty fuse holder.

What gauge wire is used?

How many amps is the fuse?

Did any wire melt?

Did the fuse blow? Or the fan fail bc the fuse holder melted?

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remove the downgrade and upgrade back to OEM.

honestly, there are very few times an electric fan offers any benefit (deep water crossings) but that isnt enough to have less effective cooling in all other situations.
 

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^
This.... stock fan for the win

Btw, I was in deep water yesterday... scary deep.... thought for sure I was gonna hydrolock my engine... not a single issue w the mechanical fan....
 

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As overheating can crack the head and the stock setup works well, unless there is some special reason like a engine swap why not go back to stock setup


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remove the downgrade and upgrade back to OEM.

honestly, there are very few times an electric fan offers any benefit (deep water crossings) but that isnt enough to have less effective cooling in all other situations.
X2, going back to the OE serpentine belt-driven fan would be an upgrade to your cooling system. Where the TJ is concerned, converting to an electric fan is a downgrade in terms of cooling and reliability.
 

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Returning to stock may be a preferred set up in theory, but if the only issue you have with your current radiator and electric fan is a fuse holder - then fix that. It makes absolutely no sense to scrap the entire system over a melted fuse holder if you have no cooling issues when the fan is operating as it should.

Without a photo it is impossible to know for sure, but generally speaking all that should be required to remedy your particular issue is a heavy duty fuse holder with appropriately rated fuse wired in a location that is isolated and/or insulated from heat that can melt it. If, however, you are blowing fuses and melting wires due to a wiring issue or problem with the fan you will need to address that.

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P.S. - You should always keep some wire, spare fuses, connectors, and other "get you home" items in a spare parts box or bag so that you can McGuyver your way out of a problem in a pinch.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Here are a few pics of what I'm working with, it is a 30 amp fuse.
 

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How much and how easy would it be to go back to a stock setup?
 

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If it is getting hot enough to melt it is heat from excess current draw not external heat so insulation would make it worse


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Discussion Starter #13
If it is getting hot enough to melt it is heat from excess current draw not external heat so insulation would make it worse


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would i need to just get a higher amp fuse that can handle the current?
 

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It looks like you have a fuse problem rather than a fuse holder problem.

You need to determine why that 30 amp fuse is melting. Putting in a higher amperage fuse is asking for a bigger problem. A 30 amp fuse should be sufficient for the typical electric fan and the fact that yours melted rather than just blew signals that something is wrong with the circuit or the fan itself that needs to be addressed.

Time to consult with an automotive electrician with the meters, probes and know-how to trace the problem to its source. Once found, your course of action will be clear whether to repair or if the better economic decision would be to return to stock.
 

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No you need to figure why it is drawing excess current - probably an issue with the fan motor


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Swapping back would be really easy... new fan clutch, fan blade, fan shroud, a couple bolts.... less than 30 min and done
 

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That holder and fuse look to be the standard Chinese made types that come with wiring kits and such. No telling what the amperage rating is really, and no telling what the melting point of the plastic is.

But more important, no telling what gauge that wiring is. Though it looks beefy, it might be thick insulation rather than more copper strands inside, which is another undesirable fact of cheap Chinese kit parts. In which case, you can experience excessive heat generation from voltage loss without exceeding the amperage limit of the fuse.

A nominal 30 amp, 12 volt circuit should be 12 gauge over the short runs you're doing, up to about 5'.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That holder and fuse look to be the standard Chinese made types that come with wiring kits and such. No telling what the amperage rating is really, and no telling what the melting point of the plastic is.

But more important, no telling what gauge that wiring is. Though it looks beefy, it might be thick insulation rather than more copper strands inside, which is another undesirable fact of cheap Chinese kit parts. In which case, you can experience excessive heat generation from voltage loss without exceeding the amperage limit of the fuse.

A nominal 30 amp, 12 volt circuit should be 12 gauge over the short runs you're doing, up to about 5'.
if i just get a better fuse would that be better than having this chinese made one?
 

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if i just get a better fuse would that be better than having this chinese made one?
No. Exactly the opposite. You will just be masking the underlying problem and risking an electrical fire that could total your jeep.

You need to determine the cause for the melted fuse and fix that, not just install a different fuse.

If this is not something you know how to do there is no shame in having the issue diagnosed and repaired by a professional automotive electrician.
 
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