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Discussion Starter #1
In anticipation of putting on a lift in a couple weeks, I went through my '13 JKU and replaced the brake pads, rotors, e-brake shoes and hardware. They were original and had begun to squeal, and the e-brake was slipping even with the handle pulled to the max. Pulled everything down and observed that the adjusters on both sides were still closed, so that was how I put them back together. Got everything put together right, spun the rotors without the wheels to make sure there was light contact but no sticking or free spinning, and finished the work. Test drove it and the brakes are working fine, even at threshold braking. However, when I pulled into the driveway and pulled the e-brake it went all the way up, but did not engage at all. I did some reading and saw many issues with the cable spring under the console relaxing to the wrong position so I pulled the console and manually rotated the spring to take up the slack then pulled the brake again. Same lack of brake result. I also noted at that point, that when the handle is pulled to the max, it actually releases the spring assembly slightly when I click it to the last click. I am hesitant to spin the adjuster since I know the brakes were touching the drum when I hand spun them and I don't want to cause them to drag and heat up. So I beg of the knowledge base here to give me some advice. Other than doing one of the homemade return spring tricks for the cables that I saw on YouTube, spinning the adjuster is the only thing I think I have left to try, but based on hand turning the spring with no brake tightening I don't think that will help. I'll take any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
 

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Jk e-brakes suck. Don't ever rely on it. The only time mine really work was when the pads were new.
 

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In anticipation of putting on a lift in a couple weeks, I went through my '13 JKU and replaced the brake pads, rotors, e-brake shoes and hardware. They were original and had begun to squeal, and the e-brake was slipping even with the handle pulled to the max. Pulled everything down and observed that the adjusters on both sides were still closed, so that was how I put them back together. Got everything put together right, spun the rotors without the wheels to make sure there was light contact but no sticking or free spinning, and finished the work. Test drove it and the brakes are working fine, even at threshold braking. However, when I pulled into the driveway and pulled the e-brake it went all the way up, but did not engage at all. I did some reading and saw many issues with the cable spring under the console relaxing to the wrong position so I pulled the console and manually rotated the spring to take up the slack then pulled the brake again. Same lack of brake result. I also noted at that point, that when the handle is pulled to the max, it actually releases the spring assembly slightly when I click it to the last click. I am hesitant to spin the adjuster since I know the brakes were touching the drum when I hand spun them and I don't want to cause them to drag and heat up. So I beg of the knowledge base here to give me some advice. Other than doing one of the homemade return spring tricks for the cables that I saw on YouTube, spinning the adjuster is the only thing I think I have left to try, but based on hand turning the spring with no brake tightening I don't think that will help. I'll take any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Mine poorly enganges like you mention, I pull up, it has tension, then releases it. I always let it rest on reverse then yank it up even tighter to feel safe to exit. I hate it. Been meaning to yank the rotors off and clean things up to try to fix... I don't trust it one bit....

Then other times, I pull it and it feels good. Most time it slips and the handle looses tension and goes straight up. Usually re-applying the ebrake gets tension... shitty ass design.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've been adjusting it little by little and it seems to be getting better. Didn't want to over adjust and mess it up. I guess the aftermarket, even though it isn't performance, just has a little different tolerance. I also put together one of the homemade tensioners I read about and watched on YouTube to eliminate slack. Seemed to help. A guy by the name of Dave Baker had a couple quick videos on them. Couldn't get the link to post.
 
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