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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had ticking addressed at the dealer when I had about 60k miles. They replaced a camshaft and maybe some of the rocker arms/lifters. Well….I think it’s coming back 60k later.

How much does this cost out of warranty? Is it doable at home?

Left side…what kind of problems can I expect by letting it go longer.

Thanks..


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I had ticking addressed at the dealer when I had about 60k miles. They replaced a camshaft and maybe some of the rocker arms/lifters. Well….I think it’s coming back 60k later.

How much does this cost out of warranty? Is it doable at home?

Left side…what kind of problems can I expect by letting it go longer.

Thanks..


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Man, that sucks. Mine was done out of warranty around 56,000. The paperwork said they replaced two cams and all rockers and lifters on both sides. It was three grand. If it happens again I’m definitely trying it myself or not going back to the dealer shop. The actual parts are only a few hundred bucks. It’s crazy they didn’t do all of yours while they had it opened up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Man, that sucks. Mine was done out of warranty around 56,000. The paperwork said they replaced two cams and all rockers and lifters on both sides. It was three grand. If it happens again I’m definitely trying it myself or not going back to the dealer shop. The actual parts are only a few hundred bucks. It’s crazy they didn’t do all of yours while they had it opened up.
I’m looking for a YouTube video. Sucks because I just replaced the radiator. Had all that stuff out of the way.


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Are you sure that they only replaced some of the followers and lifters the first time? That seems strange because the cost of the parts is low relative to the labor cost, and by replacing only some parts instead of a complete refresh you are setting yourself up for another failure down the line.

Personally I would think that if all the followers and lifters are replaced with the latest updated versions and the engine is otherwise healthy then it is unnecessary to do an engine swap, as the replaced components (being all new) would be no better or worse than what would be in a new engine, so what's the point? Maybe $500 total in parts and special tools if you do the valvetrain work yourself, vs. maybe 10x that for a good reman engine with installation. You would get a new bottom end with the new engine of course but in the Pentatstar the bottom end will outlast three valvetrains, so not a cost effective expenditure to swap out the entire engine for no good reason.
 

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How much was the engine? Who put it in?


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I found a local mechanic shop who found my worn out cam. I have pictures and I saw it myself. I paid $4k for an engine...I don't know the manufacturer... but waited for 5 months because they couldn't get parts to build it. Eventually, they reordered from Jasper, I got the engine, and the shop installed it. I thought the shop I hired was a bit sketchy, but they got the job done.

$4k for the engine...$3k for the install. I have 6k on the new engine so far, and it runs good. The best part? I have a three year warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you sure that they only replaced some of the followers and lifters the first time? That seems strange because the cost of the parts is low relative to the labor cost, and by replacing only some parts instead of a complete refresh you are setting yourself up for another failure down the line.

Personally I would think that if all the followers and lifters are replaced with the latest updated versions and the engine is otherwise healthy then it is unnecessary to do an engine swap, as the replaced components (being all new) would be no better or worse than what would be in a new engine, so what's the point? Maybe $500 total in parts and special tools if you do the valvetrain work yourself, vs. maybe 10x that for a good reman engine with installation. You would get a new bottom end with the new engine of course but in the Pentatstar the bottom end will outlast three valvetrains, so not a cost effective expenditure to swap out the entire engine for no good reason.
Reciepts show left and right tappets, left exhaust camshaft and all followers.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The parts are not expensive, save for the camshafts if they need to be replaced. If you catch it early enough, then you can save the camshafts.

Thanks!! This gave me the confidence to give it a try. Plus, it’s an excuse to buy a stethoscope.

I made an appt at the dealer today that needs some cancelling.

Do you recommend OEM parts?


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These are the best instruction videos on YouTube. Just be sure to check your lifter gallery oil plug bolts too while you're there. They're on the front of the engine block between the cam phaser's behind the timing cover. Also replace all your intake manifold seals. It's a good idea to replace your oil cooler or at least it's oring seals too. The video has links to tools.
 

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it's been debated OEM vs aftermarket for the rockers. No consensus has been arrived at. The parts originally installed weren't hardened correctly and nobody has been able to determine if the replacement OEM parts have been.
 

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Personally I would go with OEM as there have been several updates to the parts over the years. Although I don't believe anyone knows for certain what the updates consist of, if we have doubts about whether Mopar is using higher quality metallurgy or hardening in the newer parts you can be pretty sure a Chinese version has a lower probability. Some of the Amazon/Ebay kits are attractively priced but also almost too low to believe that there is a lot of quality there. Given the amount of labor required for the job my option would be to spend a few hundred more for OEM.
 

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Anyone else curious the year models involved?
There really isn't a cutoff for this issue. The worst years were after the 3.6 introduction (2012-2013) which were notorious for valvetrain issues, then the number of failures seems to slowly decrease over the time to where where it is much less common in the last few model years, but no 3.6 is immune. The 3.6 produces amazing power/torque/efficiency for a naturally-aspirated engine of its displacement, but every engine design has a weakness or two and this one is ours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Personally I would go with OEM as there have been several updates to the parts over the years. Although I don't believe anyone knows for certain what the updates consist of, if we have doubts about whether Mopar is using higher quality metallurgy or hardening in the newer parts you can be pretty sure a Chinese version has a lower probability. Some of the Amazon/Ebay kits are attractively priced but also almost too low to believe that there is a lot of quality there. Given the amount of labor required for the job my option would be to spend a few hundred more for OEM.
This is my second time with this repair. Failure seams to be around the 60k mark. Maybe putting something better will cause something else (and less desirable) to fail.


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's over-thinking it. Put in the good part.

Why worry about what you don't know when you can fix what you do know?
I get what you’re saying, but what I know is this is the second failure in 120k. It’s an obvious weak point. Strengthening could transfer a flaw to another area.

I drove 60k in two years.


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