When you say you can turn them easily do you mean by hand or with a wrench (leverage)? Is the bolt fully threaded or not? If it isn't, you may be hitting the unthreaded portion of the bolt which will give you the "torque" but the nut will not be flush (it may make contact against a surface, but it may still be bottoming out on the threads).
Have you checked the calibration on your torque wrench? When I was an aircraft mechanic, we had a bench check for calibration, and an annual laboratory recalibration for our torque wrenches. I have a couple that I picked up from Harbor Freight (meaning cheap), and they suck. I wouldn't use them for any critical application. I use the three footer as a breaker bar now.
As far as reusing bolts multiple times, that shouldn't be an issue in "normal" applications. Any critical hardware we used could be inspected (NDI, Dye penetrant, eddy current (sp?), etc.), but the rule of thumb was; never reuse self locking nuts, but bolts were fine for reuse.
When you say you can turn them easily do you mean by hand or with a wrench (leverage)? Is the bolt fully threaded or not? If it isn't, you may be hitting the unthreaded portion of the bolt which will give you the "torque" but the nut will not be flush (it may make contact against a surface, but it may still be bottoming out on the threads).
Have you checked the calibration on your torque wrench? When I was an aircraft mechanic, we had a bench check for calibration, and an annual laboratory recalibration for our torque wrenches. I have a couple that I picked up from Harbor Freight (meaning cheap), and they suck. I wouldn't use them for any critical application. I use the three footer as a breaker bar now.
As far as reusing bolts multiple times, that shouldn't be an issue in "normal" applications. Any critical hardware we used could be inspected (NDI, Dye penetrant, eddy current (sp?), etc.), but the rule of thumb was; never reuse self locking nuts, but bolts were fine for reuse.
It does seam that way but I doubt it's the case. This hardware kit is for the Jk.
Actually I know it's not the case with the TB bolts because the shouldered part just clears the bushing. Then threads the rest of the way, and through the mount.
make sure you are torquing the nut side otherwise your wrench won't be reading true fastener torque only applied torque. Using good hardware 125 is not too much for a 9/16" bolt such that you would exceed its yield strength and cause the bolt to permanently lengthen. All steel stretches softer steel stretches more, harder steel less but becomes more brittle.
make sure you are torquing the nut side otherwise your wrench won't be reading true fastener torque only applied torque. Using good hardware 125 is not too much for a 9/16" bolt such that you would exceed its yield strength and cause the bolt to permanently lengthen. All steel stretches softer steel stretches more, harder steel less but becomes more brittle.
Thanks ... Yes I try to tighten the nut side if I can. The axle side TB can't be tightened this way. the bolt only goes one way and the nut is buried. Same with some of the other bolts where the nut is buried in the frame.
well most likely as others have said you are bottoming out the threads if you can still easily turn the whole assembly after torquing try adding washers, using a shorter bolt, or one with a longer threaded portion.
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