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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for some informed pro/con or comparison between the Enforcer and the Game Changer. Following some of the build threads on here and from other reviews, the Metalcloak Game Changer really sounds like one of the top 3"- 4" lift kits around. I don't recall it ever getting negative feedback. For the Evo Enforcer, I don't see as many reviews and I also don't see anything negative. It's certainly a beastly build.

My Jeep is not a daily driver but I do drive it on the road plenty. Most of my wheeling is more overland/fire road/forest road type rather than hard core rock crawling. That doesn't mean that I never get up in the rocks though. I would say that for me, clearance and breakover are more important than articulation.

And here's where things get interesting. My Jeep is a 2018 JKU Rubicon Recon and the original owner put in a 3" Evo Enforcer Stage 1 kit with Drag Link Flip, Evo spec 2.5" King Shocks w/Adjustable Compression and 35/12.5/17 Cooper STT Pro's. Certainly not a bad setup by any measure.

That said, the Stage 1 kit only includes adjustable lower front control arms and leaves the rest of them stock. This creates some suspension geometry issues that I would prefer to get sorted out. I can add the rest of the Evo adjustable control arms for about $1,200 or I can swap the whole thing out for a Game Changer for about twice that. I suppose that I could recoup a few $$$ by selling the Evo kit if I swap it out. I wouldn't say that money is no object but either solution is well within the 'Jeep Budget'.

One minor-ish concern with swapping for the Game Changer is that the Evo kit cuts the rear track bar bracket and it's not clear if this is going to cause a problem for mounting up the Metalcloak bracket. I suppose it's nothing a little welding can't fix though.


So what I'm looking for is some comparison of how these two lift kits perform, on-road manners, build quality, Johnny Joints v Duroflex, manufacturer support, any other insight, etc.

-m
 

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You really don't have any suspension geometry issues. The lower front arms are used to correct the loss in caster you get when lifting. The only other issues you may have is the loss of wheel base and the rear pinion angle. The wheel base loss is minimal but is there. Adding the full set of arms would allow you to put the wheel base back to stock and adjust the rear pinion if you need to.

I don't see any reason to swap out to a different kit and if you really want to you can add the 6 metal cloak arms to what you already have. The metal cloak joints are nice and ride very well and really don't require maintenance unless you are really harsh on your jeep. If you do things like a lot sand and mud then I would spend more time keeping stuff clean and inspecting but that goes for any joint out there.

If you are anal about your stuff matching you can always just buy some metal cloak joints and thread them into the EVO arms and paint them gold.

Either is a great company but I would give metal cloak the win for their joints.
 

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I can't compare kit for kit but I will say I think the MC control arms are about the best on the market. I also think that MC customer service is second to none.

IMO I would keep what you have and put in a set of MC control arms. A full set of MC control arms is $1200. There is no reason to swap out the whole setup.
 

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I have had both. MC GC kit on a JKUR and the Evo Enforcer kit on a JLUR.

Both kits perform very well, but If I were to choose one I would take the MC kit every time. The fit and finish is higher than everything else that I’ve seen in the price range, and it just works.

The Evo kit always felt like it needed to be tweaked just a bit, fine tuned to get it where I wanted it. The MC GC kit on the other hand worked near perfectly out of the box, using reccomended MC measurements and settings.

The Johnny joints are excellent, but they are noisier and ride a bit tougher on the street.

The MC joints are silent and ride great but still flex like crazy.

If I were you, I would probably replace all 8 arms with MC and sell the Evo arms you have now. If I had all 8 Evo arms I’d just leave it as is, since the ROI wouldn’t be there.

Other option for me would be to replace the entire kit with MC and sell the Evo.


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Discussion Starter #5
Thedirtman, TerryC6 & loud0g40oz - Thanks for the insight. I hadn't really thought of mixing and matching parts. Common wisdom seems to be that piecing together a suspension and lift kit is something best left to the real professionals. I like the idea of a fully integrated kit from a single vendor. It's the 'one throat to choke' model. Any problems you might have, you only have one vendor to deal with and it doesn't really give them any wiggle room.


loud0g40oz - Having owned both, I really appreciate your feedback. I know that everyone has different ideas of what works and everyone definitely has different budgets and priorities. While the Johnny Joints are rock solid and huge in the Enforcer, you really feel every pebble with them and they transmit all the road noise through the chassis.
 

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Not a big EVO fan... Local with EVO keeps breaking the EVO control arm brackets and EVO is ignoring his calls and emails.
 

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The Evo lift is fine. Nothing wrong with stock 6 arms. I've been running stock for 52k miles and a LOT of off-road with no issues. The rear lowers are a little tweaked from rocks, but nothing worth replacing.

My Evo arms started to clunk when the Johnny joints got loose. It turns out the pinch clamps have to be crazy tight to where they are really bending the metal to hold the threads together. I didn't like that so I sold my arms to a poor old Jeep'n buddy of mine and put in Core stage 4. Similar build, but without the dual threaded feature, which I don't like.

As for the MC- my wheeling buddy bent the crap out of one on in Moab. MC did however replace it free of charge without question, so the customer service is great.

So I would keep the Evo/King set up and if you want arms, get Core 4x4's. They won't give you any more articulation and I don't don't see how you think your geometry is messed up, but if you like the bling or will sleep better at night, then buy 'em.

A not-so-straight MC arm:
 

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I agree with zimm. I am not sure what geometry issues you have, but if you need / want all eight arms I would just buy a set of arms. I have not heard great things about EVO arms, I did look at them but got scared off after hearing of a few issues. I do have an EVO coilover set up from them and love it. But my arms are TF Alpine arms. If I did not have the arms I have I would buy Core4x4 arms. I am sure MC arms are great as well, I have their geometry brackets and they are nice. But I like arms that are easier to adjust, and the two that I know of like that are the TF Alpine arms and Synergy arms. For most people adjusting arms is a once and done deal, but I seem to keep changing it up and as such I keep having to adjust the arms. So easy to adjust is important to me.
I would think nothing of running one brand lift and a different brand of arms. That would not be an issue. I already do it.
 

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Another thought- and I've been changing my front arm length every few days while I try to find the balance point between max castor and no front drive shaft vibes: I *thought* I needed the Evo "on vehicle" adjustability, but it's actually faster to remove the front bolt, drop the arm, spin the Johnny joint, and put it back. I use a ratcheting cargo strap and 2 clicks it pulls the axle into place to line up the bolt hole again. I have it down to about 10 minutes to adjust.
 

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Another thought- and I've been changing my front arm length every few days while I try to find the balance point between max castor and no front drive shaft vibes: I *thought* I needed the Evo "on vehicle" adjustability, but it's actually faster to remove the front bolt, drop the arm, spin the Johnny joint, and put it back. I use a ratcheting cargo strap and 2 clicks it pulls the axle into place to line up the bolt hole again. I have it down to about 10 minutes to adjust.
I think what people don't like is putting the torque back on the jam nut after the adjustment. With a crow foot and a big breaker bar, it's pretty simple, but I get it...
 

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So to the OP- the take away should be don't spend $1200 for the other 6 Evo arms, but if the front lowers aren't clunking, rock on.

If you replace all 8- get Core if you like color powder coat or MC if you like the gold cadmium plating.

The question was Evo vs MC.


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So to the OP- the take away should be don't spend $1200 for the other 6 Evo arms, but if the front lowers aren't clunking, rock on.

If you replace all 8- get Core if you like color powder coat or MC if you like the gold cadmium plating.
The question was Evo vs MC.


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What’s your point?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I really appreciate all of the feedback and suggestions.


The thread on Evo support and customer service was a real eye opener. I've also has some of the issues with the adjusters loosening up and things rattling around. Maybe the Evo arms are great for hard core rock crawling but I don't think they are a good fit for me.


As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I hadn't really considered mixing in other control arms with the rest of the Evo kit but it's definitely something I'll have to research a little more and see how that would fit in to the longer term build plans. The Core arms look like what the Evo arms should have been.


Thanks again for all the help!


-m
 

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I really appreciate all of the feedback and suggestions.


The thread on Evo support and customer service was a real eye opener. I've also has some of the issues with the adjusters loosening up and things rattling around. Maybe the Evo arms are great for hard core rock crawling but I don't think they are a good fit for me.


As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I hadn't really considered mixing in other control arms with the rest of the Evo kit but it's definitely something I'll have to research a little more and see how that would fit in to the longer term build plans. The Core arms look like what the Evo arms should have been.


Thanks again for all the help!


-m
The Core4x4 arms are a hidden gem in the offroad world. The Tier 4 are Johnny Joint on both ends which is very high misalignment. I'm running the Tier 3 with their flex poly on one end and the Johnny Joint on the other and I get max flex easily. I'm on an average 2.5"-3" lift.

 

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Control arms are not a big deal, picking the joint you need is the key. Building them is pretty simple and the bulk of the cost is actually in the joint. They only cost about $25 each to build sans the joints.
 

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I'm on the 4th different set of control arms on the wife's DD , the second set on the daughters JK and another different set ready to go on the LJ. We could certainly tell the difference between them... There is more to the control arm than just the joint. I agree that's the critical component, but we deal daily here with people that have tire rubs, squeaks, clunks etc related to control arms. And with that, it's easier to separate the arms from each other.
 

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I have 6 MC control arms and they ride incredibly nice. Saving up to get the last 2

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I've got MC arms on my 07 JK and love them! Duraflex joints are awesome, super flexy, quiet and easily serviced. MC also has very helpful responsive customer service.
 
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