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Discussion Starter #1
On 3.6 JKs with longer travel shocks, how much does the exhaust crosspipe need to be moved towards the crossmember to avoid the front driveshaft interference?


I'm planning to ask a local muffler shop to weld in extensions and thinking that they should be 1.25". This will position the crosspipe 3/4" away from the crossmember. Is that sufficient?


I cannot use spacers because of the RockHard engine/transmission skid plate (the crosspipe will contact it on the passenger side if a spacer is used). However, there is a horizontal section of the Y-pipe on the passenger side where an extension can be weld in to push the crosspipe towards the crossmember but without lowering it.


Also, the shop said they would do a butt-joint with either TIG or MIG (TIG is more expensive). They claim that a butt-joint would work well and will not crack later (I asked them initially about an overlapping joint using a sleeve). They weld headers for dune buggies like that and said it never failed. Any opinions on that?
 

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On my jks spacers the driver side is ~1.25" and the passenger side ~1.5" this is installed measuring inside flange to inside flange. this puts your cross over about 1.5" away from the cross member on the pass side. I am one that likes stock ds as they are more forgiving and need no maintenance. I have run both just prefer stock plus if you do damage one they are cheap to buy as take offs.
One question tho is how long of shocks are you going to run? as that makes a difference on stock or aftermarket DS.


 

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Discussion Starter #4
On my jks spacers the driver side is ~1.25" and the passenger side ~1.5" this is installed measuring inside flange to inside flange. this puts your cross over about 1.5" away from the cross member on the pass side. I am one that likes stock ds as they are more forgiving and need no maintenance. I have run both just prefer stock plus if you do damage one they are cheap to buy as take offs.
One question tho is how long of shocks are you going to run? as that makes a difference on stock or aftermarket DS.
My front shocks are 27.3". I'm not ready for an aftermarket driveshaft yet, and also not sure if that will clear it. I heard that some needed both the spacers and a new shaft, but that depends on the shocks.

Interesting that you have 1.5" space between the crosspipe and the crossmember. Mine sits 2" away from the crossmember, so I expected it to be less than 1" with the spacers.

Thanks for the picture!
 

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every jeep is different but on my 16 jkr 2 door I had jks spacers and even with 28.5" long shocks and AEV geo brackets I did not have an issue with the stock driveshaft. on my 2018 jkur I have front shocks that are 25.7" long and have lots of clearance with stock ds and no geo brackets and I use my jeeps as jeeps so if they were going to rub they would.
 

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I have MetalCloak exhaust spacers on my rig and now there is about 1/32 of an inch between my crossover pipe and the frame crossmemeber. I get some rattling when the Jeep is positioned just right. Its annoying. Soon I will replace the front driveshaft to eliminate the spacers.
 

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I've also read on the forum somewhere that Metalcloak states their kits have so much droop that many aftermarket shafts won't work without the spacers. But maybe I misread, or maybe this only applies to the taller kits with really long shocks? I'm interested in learning more about this as I'm considering a Metalcloak lift, although not the game changer, just the 2.5 true dual rate with rocksport shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've also read on the forum somewhere that Metalcloak states their kits have so much droop that many aftermarket shafts won't work without the spacers. But maybe I misread, or maybe this only applies to the taller kits with really long shocks? I'm interested in learning more about this as I'm considering a Metalcloak lift, although not the game changer, just the 2.5 true dual rate with rocksport shocks.
That's what I have, 2.5" + RockSport shocks. Although my control arms are Currie's, not Metalcloak.

BTW, I asked Metalcloak and was told that RockSport shocks are the same for 2.5" and 3.5" lifts, including Game Changer. So you only have a choice between RockSport (27.3"), Fox (27.25"), and SixPak (28.25"). There are also RockSport for long-arm kits (29.7" extended).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And it's done!
 

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Looks good. Can you share how much this work ran you, seems like it should be a pretty quick job? I'm also considering the Rock Hard skids, so I could end up dealing with this same issue and would also prefer to avoid using the shims to lower the skid plate that RH offers as a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks good. Can you share how much this work ran you, seems like it should be a pretty quick job? I'm also considering the Rock Hard skids, so I could end up dealing with this same issue and would also prefer to avoid using the shims to lower the skid plate that RH offers as a solution.
It was a bit more than I initially expected. They quoted me $150 if they MIG-welded it and $250 for TIG. They said that there would not be a lot of difference, but TIG takes a lot longer and that's why it is more expensive. From what I know, TIG usually fills gaps better and there are some benefits when welding stainless steel. So I went with the TIG at $250. It took them about 2 hours.

Somewhere on this forum, I read that someone had done something similar for less than $100, but I don't know what was exactly done and where (I expect California prices to be higher).
 
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