Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finalizing my build, and I'm mostly settled on a 3.5" lift. I'm going 35's, and many have said 2.5 is enough (and I suspect it would be--with just appropriate bump stop adjustment), but the lift I am considering (and I think most of the expensive lifts available) only require a spring change to change between 2.5" and 3.5".

I was planning on going with the Metalcloak Gamechanger (I like the 8 adjustable control arms, and front/rear adjustable track bars so that my shop can get the axles centered both front to back and side to side, as well as tweak the castor and pinion angles) but then I came across the Rock Krawler equiavalent lift, and some other posts have suggested Synergy adjustable control arms. I'd rather do an "all in one" versus a piece together, but I'd appreciate any pro/cons on what I'm thinking, or other suggestions.

Thanks!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,238 Posts
I would go with 2.5 Rock Krawler X Factor or Metalcloak Game Changer. I run 37s with the 2.5 X Factor.
 

·
Bella's Jeeper
Joined
·
1,301 Posts
What do you use your Jeep for? I have a 3.5 AEV lift with 285/75R17 and it is better than stock on the road including at freeway speeds, great on the trails especially long, washboarded drives, and works well in moderate rock crawling trails.

How you use your Jeep is more important in selecting a lift than brand names.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,006 Posts
If you want to go 35’s and keep the oem fenders, go 3.5in lift
If you want 35’s and flat fenders then 2.5in works

If you think you will go to 37’s someday, go 3.5in now and if that day comes, new fenders and 37’s can be done

I have a JKU and narrowed down my lift to metal cloak and rock krawler. I ended up going with rock krawler (3.5x) and have zero regrets. My kit was on sale which made my decision really easy with the money I saved.

Many are super biased stating what’s on their Jeep is the best. I look at it as there are several really good quality brands offering similar performance, quality and after purchase support. From what I have read on these forums as well as local clubs and YouTube, any of those brands you listed is a good bet for a quality system.

My only regret with my kit is why did it take me a few years and 40k miles to purchase/install.
 

·
Bella's Jeeper
Joined
·
1,301 Posts
Many are super biased stating what’s on their Jeep is the best. I look at it as there are several really good quality brands offering similar performance, quality and after purchase support. From what I have read on these forums as well as local clubs and YouTube, any of those brands you listed is a good bet for a quality system.
So true. People who are happy with their lifts have one that fits their use of the Jeep best. People who are unhappy have a lift that doesn't. That includes people who want a lift just to look badass - they often get rock crawling lifts for the cool look and then complain about what a harsh ride they have on the roads...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks all. I use my Jeep as an occasional daily driver, a snow driver in the winter, and off roading. My off roading includes trails as difficult as I think my Jeep can handle, I've been to Moab once, and I am going back in October. I have full armor underneath it and that armor is scraped up.

Because of budget constraints I am staying with stock fenders now, but may go flat in the future. My budget does include a new front drive shaft, regardless of the lift I select.

Here's the disadvantages I see with a 3.5" vs 2.5" lift.
- harder to climb into
- slightly higher center of gravity (which will negatively impact handling)
- more drive shaft wear
- perhaps more challenging to get perfect caster and perfect pinion angle
- fits in fewer parking garages

The positives are include more clearance for some of the dangly bits and more articulation for a given tire size/fender combo.

I'd appreciate any further thoughts or agreements/disagreements.

Also, if I stay with 2.5" I wonder about the necessity of doing all 8 control arms?
 

·
Bella's Jeeper
Joined
·
1,301 Posts
Seems like you do mostly rock crawling and occasional DD/dirt roads. That would lean you towards Metalcloak or Rock Crawler.

The other way round would lean you towards an AEV lift - still plenty capable in the rocks but much better manners on the freeway and long dirt roads.

Whatever you choose make sure you get a complete kit and a solid installation and alignment.

I originally thought I would go 2.5 but then I opted for the AEV due to my driving patterns and wanted some extra clearance because of the geometry correction brackets. I too was worried about height but I am glad I went 3.5. My total height increase was 5.5 inches, 4.5 from the lift (my Jeep only weighs 4500 lbs) and and extra 1 from the bigger tires.

Good luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seems like you do mostly rock crawling and occasional DD/dirt roads. That would lean you towards Metalcloak or Rock Crawler.

The other way round would lean you towards an AEV lift - still plenty capable in the rocks but much better manners on the freeway and long dirt roads.

Whatever you choose make sure you get a complete kit and a solid installation and alignment.

I originally thought I would go 2.5 but then I opted for the AEV due to my driving patterns and wanted some extra clearance because of the geometry correction brackets. I too was worried about height but I am glad I went 3.5. My total height increase was 5.5 inches, 4.5 from the lift (my Jeep only weighs 4500 lbs) and and extra 1 from the bigger tires.

Good luck.
Thank you for the thoughts. The concern I have is that I spend an hour driving each way to my close wheeling place, and Moab is 15 hours each way, so on road manners matter. Of course, having said that, no one is going to mistake our Jeeps for race cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,880 Posts
Final thoughts on 3.5" JKU lift

You can run the X-Factor 2.5” with factory fenders and 35s. I know because I did it for two years. But, my 35s were KM2s that had a rolling diameter of 34 inches. A 3.5” lift is going to look kind of weird (too much gap IMO) with 35s and factory fenders. A 3.5” lift and flat fenders definitely 37s or 38s.
 

·
Bella's Jeeper
Joined
·
1,301 Posts
You can run the X-Factor 2.5” with factory fenders and 35s. I know because I did it for two years. But, my 35s were KM2s that had a rolling diameter of 34 inches. A 3.5” lift is going to look kind of weird (too much gap IMO) with 35s and factory fenders. A 3.5” lift and flat fenders definitely 37s or 38s.
Here's my JK with a 3.5 AEV lift (actually netted 4.5) and 285/75R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W (nominally 34 but actually 33 on the Jeep at 30 psi).

I like the look and get lots of questions about the lift. YMMV.

The Falkens are great tires in the winter (mountain snowflake every bit as good as the Duratracs) and tough enough for the rocky trails round here (which have a reputation for shredding Durtracs) :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,006 Posts
Thanks all. I use my Jeep as an occasional daily driver, a snow driver in the winter, and off roading. My off roading includes trails as difficult as I think my Jeep can handle, I've been to Moab once, and I am going back in October. I have full armor underneath it and that armor is scraped up.

Because of budget constraints I am staying with stock fenders now, but may go flat in the future. My budget does include a new front drive shaft, regardless of the lift I select.

Here's the disadvantages I see with a 3.5" vs 2.5" lift.
- harder to climb into
- slightly higher center of gravity (which will negatively impact handling)
- more drive shaft wear
- perhaps more challenging to get perfect caster and perfect pinion angle
- fits in fewer parking garages
Yes, harder to get into.... especially after a soccer game when my legs tell me what the ..... are you thinking. However I still think it’s worth it, keeps me young I guess? Almost qualified for 50+ yr old soccer... just a few more months...... ugh

Yes it does get a slightly higher cog however I still feel ride and handling is far superior vs stock. No sure from a driving standpoint on the street if you could even tell the difference between 2.5in and 3.5in

True.... I have been rocking the oem driveshaft since I installed my lift, that was 10k miles ago.

My JKU was able to get within specs that RK suggested. Shop that did the alignment went by Jeep specs even though I told them what to do. The thing wandered everywhere..... RK stated check the alignment which we did and once in suggested specs all is good.

Yea I have just a few inches in my garage.... however to much crap in there thus the only time I pull in is when I connect or disconnect the snowplow. Hopefully that will change soon.

My lift sat in my garage for a year until I could afford to have it installed (I know, should of done it myself however lack of tools and time). Then I rocked the oem tires for several months before I could afford different wheels/tires. A year later I finally purchased new fenders.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,387 Posts
I'm finalizing my build, and I'm mostly settled on a 3.5" lift. I'm going 35's, and many have said 2.5 is enough (and I suspect it would be--with just appropriate bump stop adjustment), but the lift I am considering (and I think most of the expensive lifts available) only require a spring change to change between 2.5" and 3.5".

I was planning on going with the Metalcloak Gamechanger (I like the 8 adjustable control arms, and front/rear adjustable track bars so that my shop can get the axles centered both front to back and side to side, as well as tweak the castor and pinion angles) but then I came across the Rock Krawler equiavalent lift, and some other posts have suggested Synergy adjustable control arms. I'd rather do an "all in one" versus a piece together, but I'd appreciate any pro/cons on what I'm thinking, or other suggestions.

Thanks!
Both are excellent lift kits... For a single out of the box with minimal tweaking or additional parts, the Metalcloak kits are hard to beat. I do prefer their control arms over the RK's for sure.

But if I was buying something where I didn't mind buying the control arms separately, adding the Tier 3 or 4 Core 4x4 arms to any kit is an excellent upgrade.

Also, the Rancho 4" kit is a real performer too... @AOR can get you some great pricing.

2018 - 2007 Jeep Wrangler JK 2/4 Door - 4-in. Crawler Short Arm System - RS66114B - Rancho® Performance Suspension & Shocks

 
  • Like
Reactions: AOR

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
I initially went with the 3.5 Gamechanger for my 2 dr Recon. After some reading and listening to others that know more than I do, I decided to exchange the coils for the 2.5’s

I went with Metalcloak because of their excellent reputation and customer service. I heard some issues regarding corrosion with Rockcrawler lifts and the company not standing by their products. Whether that is true , I am not sure, but was enough for me to look
Elsewhere, and once I found Metalcloak, I never looked back.

One thing about most control arms is there are no wrench flats on the them to facilitate tightening the jam nuts. Seems like a bad idea forcing the arms sideways in the mounts to get the nuts tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,880 Posts
Here's my JK with a 3.5 AEV lift (actually netted 4.5) and 285/75R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W (nominally 34 but actually 33 on the Jeep at 30 psi).

I like the look and get lots of questions about the lift. YMMV.

The Falkens are great tires in the winter (mountain snowflake every bit as good as the Duratracs) and tough enough for the rocky trails round here (which have a reputation for shredding Durtracs) :)
I think the 2 door looks better with more gap than the 4 door, at least to me. This is when I had 2.5" lift (netted around 2.75") with 35s (actual rolling 34"). It's hard to tell with pictures, but the gap looked good and no issues with rubbing.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks to all who weighed in. I'd really like to net about 3 inches. Normally that would be the 2.5" lift, as these often deliver more than advertised. But, I have a Teraflex coil leveling lift that should yield 2" front/ 1'' back. It is yielding +1 1/4 front (so down 3/4 of an inch) and - 1/4 back (so down 1 1/4 inches). I have a lot of weight in my rig--so this makes me worry that the 2.5" lifts won't net me quite enough, but that the 3.5" lifts will be a little tall. Fortunately with these complete kits changing the height only involves new springs (and adjusting everything).
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
Thanks to all who weighed in. I'd really like to net about 3 inches. Normally that would be the 2.5" lift, as these often deliver more than advertised. But, I have a Teraflex coil leveling lift that should yield 2" front/ 1'' back. It is yielding +1 1/4 front (so down 3/4 of an inch) and - 1/4 back (so down 1 1/4 inches). I have a lot of weight in my rig--so this makes me worry that the 2.5" lifts won't net me quite enough, but that the 3.5" lifts will be a little tall. Fortunately with these complete kits changing the height only involves new springs (and adjusting everything).
Just throwing this out there. The RK coils springs are rated for fully loaded trail rigs. So, rockers, body armor, HD tire carrier with full-sized spare, front bumper and winch, and gear etc., is all calculated to still net you the 2.5" of advertised lift. If you do not have all this heavy equipment, you will net more lift with their springs. If you were in stock trim, and had the 2.5" springs, you would be closer to 3.25".

Also, don't be affraid to dial in your ride height with any coil lift by using spring spacers.

If you have any questions that I can help with (tweaking the lift for your needs, pricing, etc.) shoot me a PM or email.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

Allen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
I went with the Metalcloak Gamechanger. If you take the time to dial everything in the ride is better than stock and it has very good flex.

You will get more than the advertised height if you're not heavily armored. MC says their numbers are with 700 pounds of armor. After installing their suspension I believe them.

MC is flexy enough you need to plan on exhaust spacers or swapping the driveshafts, even with the 2.5". I did aftermarket shafts to future proof the Jeep.

MC has great customer service. They never once complained when I was calling them with questions before the purchase. Shipping was super fast.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I went with the Metalcloak Gamechanger. If you take the time to dial everything in the ride is better than stock and it has very good flex.

You will get more than the advertised height if you're not heavily armored. MC says their numbers are with 700 pounds of armor. After installing their suspension I believe them.

MC is flexy enough you need to plan on exhaust spacers or swapping the driveshafts, even with the 2.5". I did aftermarket shafts to future proof the Jeep.

MC has great customer service. They never once complained when I was calling them with questions before the purchase. Shipping was super fast.
Driveshafts plural? I know the front needs to be done, and I was planning on it. I didn't think doing the rear was necessity, especially on a JKU, with the lower angles, but please set me straight.

I probably need to find a car/truck scale and weigh my rig to get an idea how much extra weight I am carrying. My side steps/rock rails are very heavy, but two of my three armor plates (and front bumper) are aluminum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
I don't think the rear shaft is necessary. I figured if i'm doing one, i'm doing both.



If you keep your rear factory shaft I think you will want to move your evap canister over a little bit. It's an easy mod. Just drill new holes. I moved mine over 1/2" even with an aftermarket shaft. Probably didn't need to but it made me feel better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't think the rear shaft is necessary. I figured if i'm doing one, i'm doing both.



If you keep your rear factory shaft I think you will want to move your evap canister over a little bit. It's an easy mod. Just drill new holes. I moved mine over 1/2" even with an aftermarket shaft. Probably didn't need to but it made me feel better.
Thank you--good advice on the EVAP. I plan on doing that.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top