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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After 651 days of working on my JK, I'm proud to introduce my DIY farm truck.

'16 JK hacked, chopped and weldered.
122" wheelbase (6" over a JKU, 16" under a JT)
48" overhang (18" over a JK, 3" under a JT)
80" long bed x 74" wide with lots of under bed storage (4' drawer on drivers side, 2' on passenger, and 4' towbar pocket in the back)
 

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Pretty cool! How did you handle the rear suspension?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow. Pretty cool project. Looks great. But can I ask, why bother?
Wanted a Comanche replacement. Regular cab, a bed that can handle 6' t post, prefer solid axle, smallish size.

Not much for options, other than finding another Comanche.
I don't fit inside a gladiator, they don't have a useable bed and it isn't much smaller than my ram 2500 ccsb
 

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Definitely an awesome job!
 

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Absolutely spectacular.

I've been looking for a older Ford Ranger replacement for quite some time, and I'm thinking an older JKU might be in my future...

Do you have any details you can share about sealing the back of the tub?
 

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Sweet! I've often thought about a Brute kit on a 2dr TJ. I think they look better than the Gladiator (and I do like the Gladiator). But my wife would shoot me if I started another project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Absolutely spectacular.

I've been looking for a older Ford Ranger replacement for quite some time, and I'm thinking an older JKU might be in my future...

Do you have any details you can share about sealing the back of the tub?
I have a build thread that covers most of it. I ordered a custom roof from gr8tops (they are working on making it a production top, making #3 now) they have a fiberglass bulkhead if you want to do a scrambler style build.

My cab closeout is made from rear quarters, square tubing, some panels for the tailgate opening (tailgate won't fit, it's to narrow) and a second set of corners flipped over on the opposite sides for the wheel well opening. Added a set of tailgate exhausters so the cab doesn't build pressure (cab fan works better and doors close easier)

Edit, rather than mess with an older jku, consider a wrecked jk or jku. This is not a cheap project, the labor and parts cost the same, regardless if you build a '08 3.8 manual with 3.21 gears and 250k miles or a '16 3.6 auto with 3.73 gears and 15k miles
 

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You win the member of the year in my book as far as projects go. very cool indeed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sweet! I've often thought about a Brute kit on a 2dr TJ. I think they look better than the Gladiator (and I do like the Gladiator). But my wife would shoot me if I started another project.
TJ (YJ/CJ) would be so much easier than a JK, the tub is pretty square and straight.
I wouldn't even worry about ordering the kit, just get extra corners (2left and 2 right) and make your own bed, talk to gr8tops for a roof and cut the frame to fit you needs.

The JK isn't straight they taper front to rear and top to bottom. They body looks flat, but it isn't
 

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How much in the frame did you add? And terrific drawer system. Congrats.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How much in the frame did you add? And terrific drawer system. Congrats.
26" in the middle and 12.5" in the rear. Late TJ tank with a modified JK fuel pickup sitting behind the axle.

JK and JKU use the same front and rear frame, the difference is in the center. I cut the JK center out and stuck doubled up 2.5" square tubing in (one clamped to the top side and the other to the bottom) then plated both sides with 10 gauge. Moved the cross members and cab mounts back to the old locations, made a few new ones like what a jku has.

In the rear I had a couple sections of metal bent into "[" and "]" so they fit together and inside the rear of the frame, slid in as far as possible.
 

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