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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody used a Flat Skid from Barnes 4WD. I like the flat concept and you can't beat the price $150. Their also 1/4 inch thick. Not extra for the extra thickness. Just seeing if anybody had any experience with them bad or good.

Jeep TJ Flat Skid Plate
 

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Haven't used the flat one, but did use one of the 2" drop ones for my buddy's TJ. Definitely very strong, but it is NOT a bolt in skid. It does not have any holes drilled in the center for the transmission mount, so you have to locate those holes and then fab up and weld an angled mount inside like the factory and then drill holes in the outer plate so you can get to the recessed bolt heads. For his jeep (03 Rubicon) we also had to lengthen the slots slightly on the six holes where it bolts to the frame.

I did a lot of other work on his as well to notch out the back of the plate for his triangulated Teraflex LCOG long arms and added a piece of 1.5" box tubing to the inside of the skid going from side to side to add even more strength.

Overall, he ended up with a VERY nice, high strength skid, but it was a fair amount of fab work.
 

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Yea I was looking at them to but noticed that they aren't drilled for the transmission mount and was wondering about how much trouble that was to do
 

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How much trouble it will be is a function of how good you are with basic tools, how precise your measuring is, and how well you understand the basic function of that skid plate/crossmember.

I could have that skid ready to bolt up in about 90 minutes but I've also built several flat skids before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea my skills are expanding in the fabrication world. Thats kinda why I wanted to go with less then finished product. Also the price point is hard to top. I like the idea of doing some cutting and welding if necessary. I plan on taking the stock mount and shortening it. Ordered it yesterday. So it supposed to be here next thursday. Also was only $15 for shipping. Compared to the $58 that UCF wanted. Dont think drilling the holes will be that difficult. Just installed the BL and MML. I think im gonna have to shorten the exhaust hanger. But ill look at clearance when we get to that point.
 

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How much is a piece of steel that size? The corner bends are cool, but you could weld a lip if you needed to. Seems like a lot of fabrication needed for that part, and you could do the same with a piece of steel. If you can cut and weld metal, I wouldn't buy that.
 

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How much is a piece of steel that size? The corner bends are cool, but you could weld a lip if you needed to. Seems like a lot of fabrication needed for that part, and you could do the same with a piece of steel. If you can cut and weld metal, I wouldn't buy that.
I agree with this completely. If any real work is involved in making it function and fit and it is as simple as this item, either make your own or look at other designs.

Paying $150 for "laser cut precision" is a waste of time and money if you then have to hack all over it to make it work, IMHO.
 

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How much trouble it will be is a function of how good you are with basic tools, how precise your measuring is, and how well you understand the basic function of that skid plate/crossmember.

I could have that skid ready to bolt up in about 90 minutes but I've also built several flat skids before.
U have any details on what would b required I been wanting to get a flatter skid and would like to do it myself like with this one but haven't been able to find any write ups on doing the mount. I made my own sliders and do all my own work but like to have something to read over and help me get going in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Believe me I totally considered buying a flat piece of steel and building one myself. But I kinda needed to get it sooner then later. And doing a little fab seems alot easier then doing the whole thing on my own. And I thought the bent ends would help strengthen the skid compared to just a flat skid with no bends. If I did the flat skid on my own I was planning on doing a crossmember. Which I still might do instead of shortening the stock mount. Will see when I get under there what the best plan of attack is....
 

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If you don't have time or feel comfortable with fabricating your own skid, I don't see any problem with buying the Barnes. They make good stuff and are more reasonably priced than many others on the market. I'd do the crossmember instead of modifying the stock mount though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I definately am thinking about doing a crossmember to replace the stock setup. Looks like a pretty simple thing to do and there are alot of benefits of doing it. Looks way more strong and stable. Barnes offers a crossmember kit that has most of the stuff you need for $44. It seems like a good start. Just need a couple other things that shouldnt cost that much. Will have to see how everthing works when I get down there and then go from there. Thanks for info on this. Its something I have been wanting to do for awhile(GET RID OF THAT DAMN SHOVEL)!!!!
 

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I agree with this completely. If any real work is involved in making it function and fit and it is as simple as this item, either make your own or look at other designs.

Paying $150 for "laser cut precision" is a waste of time and money if you then have to hack all over it to make it work, IMHO.
Go look up prices on 1/4" steel plate, your not saving much buying it yourself. I would definitely pay a little extra for the bends, properly drilled bolt pattern, and clean cuts.
 
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