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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I had my Teraflex level kit installed with new 305/70/17 Toyo AT2 Extreme tires and Black Rhino wheels installed, 4.5 backspace and it freaked me out going between 50-60. We checked for rubbing and fenders are fine, but it did graze front air dam a little so we removed it.

I got a level instead of lift to save money and hopefully not have to continue dumping money into other driveline components. I also didn't want a large lift. Any advice would be great. I'm a newb, so please be detailed if going into components.

Thanks in advance
 

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Yesterday I had my Teraflex level kit installed with new 305/70/17 Toyo AT2 Extreme tires and Black Rhino wheels installed, 4.5 backspace and it freaked me out going between 50-60. We checked for rubbing and fenders are fine, but it did graze front air dam a little so we removed it.

I got a level instead of lift to save money and hopefully not have to continue dumping money into other driveline components. I also didn't want a large lift. Any advice would be great. I'm a newb, so please be detailed if going into components.

Thanks in advance
Did you check the alignment? The alignment sheet could indicate what's going on, assuming everything else is hooked and torqued to specs.
 
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^ What he said.

Also, having experienced it myself - Double-check the front track bar. The directions that came with mine said to torque to 105lbft, but anything less than 125lbft made flighty steering at any speed. Now up to at least 80mph, crosswind is the only factor that can push me side to side.

 

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If you had new tires put on make sure the did not air them up to something stupid. Shops tend to do that.
 

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When I did a similar change I noticed the same thing. While I did find that one the sway bar links was a little loose, I decided that it was the switch to much wider, AT tires that was the primary cause. It's a big difference from the stock SRAs. The alignment feels fine, but changing lanes and going over any kind of groove felt crazy. I have just gotten used to it and it doesn't feel as bad as it first did.
 

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Check your tire pressure first. Shops in my area are bad about just inflating tires to the "max psi" listed on the sidewall, which is usually way too high for daily driving.
If you still have that "twitchy" steering, I'd bet it's a castor issue. The castor isn't adjustable on JK's. I added a set of Rancho geometry correction brackets and it made a world of difference in our JKU.
 

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My toyo at2 felt a little flighty on the hwy when I first put them on. Dropped psi 32 and after about 20 miles they feel perfect. Sometimes it takes a few miles for new tires to "break-in". At least that is what the Toyo rep told said and it worked for me. Assuming, all the suspension is torqued to spec.
 

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Where is the PSI at on the tires? Is it flighty all the time or just at speed? If just between 50-60 sounds like you might have a tire(s) issue.

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Mine at only 2" in the front needed geometry correction brackets because it was flighty and honestly a bit scary to drive. As they said, break the tires in a bit more and drop the pressure to the 30-32 range if not already there. The wider tires are catching the grooves in the road a lot more too. If it's still doing it you probably need the brackets.
 

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1) Make sure they didn't put 40psi in the tires. Try 30-32.
2) Measure your castor- if it's in the 3's, you need correction- either longer lower control arms or correction brackets (rancho). Stock is 4.2- so between that and 5 degrees you're good.
 

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I experienced a similar issue after getting a TF 2.5" lift and 35's. It turned out to be the castor so I installed the fixed length TF front lower control arms and it eliminated this issue completely. The steering was improved even more after I installed the TF front track bar, steering feels nice and tight....better than stock even (stock felt a little loose to me).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all for the advice, I greatly appreciate it. Guy at shop said the put 35 psi in tires. I was hoping to not have to drop more money now on control arms and/or front track bar
 

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Thank you all for the advice, I greatly appreciate it. Guy at shop said the put 35 psi in tires. I was hoping to not have to drop more money now on control arms and/or front track bar
Reduce the pressure/do a quick chalk test on the tires (I run 24 psi on my 37's). Drop brackets are relatively inexpensive and you can save up some $ for a new TB over time while you run the stock one.

Good luck

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Discussion Starter #14
Reduce the pressure/do a quick chalk test on the tires (I run 24 psi on my 37's). Drop brackets are relatively inexpensive and you can save up some $ for a new TB over time while you run the stock one.

Good luck

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Will do. What do you recommend I run my psi for primarily DD?
 

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Steering stabilizer or no?
No. At least do the front track bar and a Griffin bushing from Steersmarts before even considering the stabilizer.
 

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Will do. What do you recommend I run my psi for primarily DD?
That varies from vehicle to vehicle for quite a few reasons i.e. overall vehicle weight/tire/rim width etc.

If you do the chalk test you will be able to dial it based on your jeeps specific setup (hard top/heavy bumper/winches/bike racks etc)

Probably a good video on u tube of the process.

Only takes a few minutes in a parking lot with some sidewalk chalk. I use my daughter's yellow it shows nicely





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I'd try 30 psi.
 

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Is your steering wheel wobbly? Just had an issue after my budget boost and 315/70/17's with flighty/wobbly steering. Tires were shipped with the crappiest balancing I've ever seen. After a re-balance all is good again.

Oh...and they came shipped inflated to 45 psi...WTF????
 
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