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Discussion Starter #1
A few months ago, I got a set of the JW Speaker 6145J fog lights for a great deal, and only after I got them did I realize that they state that they are for the 14 & Up JKs, and my JK is a 13. I reached out to JW speaker and the rep said that I'm still good to go, and that the year specificity only applies to the early model 6145J's and that my set is fine for any year JK.

While I hope this is true, I'm hesitant to go splicing and dicing my fog light wiring without being pretty certain I will be fine. The lights have the antiflicker built in, but I'm still concerned about the year difference.

Being new to wiring and overall vehicle electronics, am I correct in thinking I can take the lights and power them straight to the battery to see how they work before splicing them in? Will they work the same both ways?

Sorry for the potentially dumb question, but wanting to avoid cutting up wiring if the lights won't operate correctly.

Thanks!
 

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WhiteCrow

I experienced same problem with my 2013. The reason I purchased the expensive product was the salesman said the fogs were "plug and play" Another case of salesman not knowing what he's talking about. Beware!

I found a YouTube installation that depicts the install steps You will need a

soldering tool and heat shrinks to do the job right.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
White crow, did the lights work on your 2013 fine?
 

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I'm hesitant to go splicing and dicing my fog light wiring without being pretty certain I will be fine. The lights have the antiflicker built in, but I'm still concerned about the year difference.

Being new to wiring and overall vehicle electronics, am I correct in thinking I can take the lights and power them straight to the battery to see how they work before splicing them in? Will they work the same both ways?
You don't need to cut any of the factory wiring. Use connectors. The fog light connector, at least on my 2014 JKU, is an Amphenol AT06-2S. There are 3 parts to the connector:

AT06-2S, Connector (Digikey PN 889-1012-ND)
AT62-14-0122, Socket (Digikey PN 889-1051-1-ND)
AW2S, Plug Wedge (Digikey PN 889-1037-ND)

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=889-1012-ND

Hooking up to the battery is not the same as going thru the fog light wiring. The wiring produces a pulsed output, not DC. That's why some lights flicker.

You can buy an anti-flicker harness. Before I knew there was such a thing as an anti-flicker harness, I constructed this circuit and wrapped the whole thing with F4 tape, and it sits inside my bumper. It has been running for 2 years with zero trouble with my Rigid Industries Dually Spots.



D1: Schottky Diode, 30V, 2A, Vf=0.36V (Sanken RA13V1)
R1: 1K Ohm, 1/2W
C1: 6800uF, 25V (Panasonic ECA-1EM682)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input everyone!

@whitecrow - awesome! I live in Winston now and grew up about an hour away from here. Small world!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@leadnut the lights say they have the antiflicker built in, so I'm hoping there isn't any reason they wouldn't work on a 13 vs a 14& up. My trucklites have an antiflicker harness that I tucked behind the lights
 

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@leadnut the lights say they have the antiflicker built in, so I'm hoping there isn't any reason they wouldn't work on a 13 vs a 14& up. My trucklites have an antiflicker harness that I tucked behind the lights
If your worried about the anti-flicker not working, the quick way to test is to disconnect the factory fog connector, then use some leads with alligator clips and connect the JW lights, you will see right away if there is a problem. The engine must be started to test for flicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@lead awesome! That's what I was wanting really, a way to test the lights before the real install. Thanks!
 

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NCWranglerX - the circuitry for the fog lights and headlights I believe is the same from 2007-2017 as they all use the can bus. There may be connector difference or there may be exact fitment issues.
 
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