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Discussion Starter #1
Hello and Good Day Gents,

I'm almost out of time with my right-rear shackle I can't believe it's still hanging on. When I was doing my rear-brakes I noticed the rot has progressed and there isn't a lot of material left. The rest of the frame is in great shape, this is the only section where it's bad. (Pictures below).

So I need advice on these "Auto Rust Frame Sections". Has anyone used these? My plan was to take off the rear bumper, drop the fuel tank, remove the body-bushing, drop the shackle and spring, and cut out the bad material/damaged section. Then I have to get a welder to come over and weld it in, I don't have 220 in my garage. But these frame sections, do they just wrap around the good-frame and then it's edge-welded? Or are these butt-welded into place with the existing frame?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/56011_9020_07.htm

If anyone has any experience with these I'd like to ask you a bunch of questions. I got a quote for a frame-repair for $700+ and I think that's way too much so I was thinking I can do a lot of the leg work myself and can get a mobile-welder over to give me a hand getting it in place.
 

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They wrap around the frame but you will need to cut out the original shackle hanger so it fits. I just helped a friend patch up his frame he had 5 of the safe-t-cap patches and several other smaller ones to fill in between them. We used his Hobart 110 using argon gas and it welded well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They wrap around the frame but you will need to cut out the original shackle hanger so it fits. I just helped a friend patch up his frame he had 5 of the safe-t-cap patches and several other smaller ones to fill in between them. We used his Hobart 110 using argon gas and it welded well.

Awesome thank you for the reply. Now when you say cut-out the shackle-hanger, you mean the original "hole" where the frame-shackle is mounted to? That area gets cut out? I think that entire area on my frame is destroyed anyway it looks really rotted.

Also I'm a little concerned that the top-frame rail above the shackle could be rotting as well. If these sections wrap around the frame, what should I do for that metal that's on top? If I cut it all out, it will be "open" at that top section. Maybe weld a plate on top of the new section?

Do you have any pictures of the repair for your friend? If you could get a couple and PM them to me or my cell-phone I'd really appreciate it.
 

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Awesome thank you for the reply. Now when you say cut-out the shackle-hanger, you mean the original "hole" where the frame-shackle is mounted to? That area gets cut out? I think that entire area on my frame is destroyed anyway it looks really rotted.

Also I'm a little concerned that the top-frame rail above the shackle could be rotting as well. If these sections wrap around the frame, what should I do for that metal that's on top? If I cut it all out, it will be "open" at that top section. Maybe weld a plate on top of the new section?

Do you have any pictures of the repair for your friend? If you could get a couple and PM them to me or my cell-phone I'd really appreciate it.

Yeah you have to cut out the old hole for the shackle mount so the new frame section will fit up in there.

As for the open top of the frame... The same friend im currently helping with his YJ i sold my other YJ to years ago that was rusted out in the rear. He took it to someone to have it patched up and they just cut the entire rear frame section completely off and welded the new cap in and left the top completely open.

I thought it was a really crappy way to do it but he drove it for years like that with no problems. If it were me i would probbaly try to do my best to plate the top somehow. But since there is no real room to work with the body bolted on you might be better off welding something in there before you weld it to the frame.

I need to take pictures of this guys jeep we are working on now it's a basket case. The frame has so many patches it's comical but it's actually turning out pretty well. There was no factory paint left on the frame it was all brown and scaling. We have beat off all the scale with a hammer, cleaned rust off with wire and flap wheels, patched and por15'd it all and it actually looks kinda good in a weird way. Your frame is in 90% better condition than his.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah you have to cut out the old hole for the shackle mount so the new frame section will fit up in there.

As for the open top of the frame... The same friend im currently helping with his YJ i sold my other YJ to years ago that was rusted out in the rear. He took it to someone to have it patched up and they just cut the entire rear frame section completely off and welded the new cap in and left the top completely open.

I thought it was a really crappy way to do it but he drove it for years like that with no problems. If it were me i would probbaly try to do my best to plate the top somehow. But since there is no real room to work with the body bolted on you might be better off welding something in there before you weld it to the frame.

I need to take pictures of this guys jeep we are working on now it's a basket case. The frame has so many patches it's comical but it's actually turning out pretty well. There was no factory paint left on the frame it was all brown and scaling. We have beat off all the scale with a hammer, cleaned rust off with wire and flap wheels, patched and por15'd it all and it actually looks kinda good in a weird way. Your frame is in 90% better condition than his.
I agree with the not needing a big welder for this. You will only be welding 1/8" steel. Do you have a buddy that can bring one over? I am in the wrong corner of PA or I would.
This is all good information guys thank you so much. I will start to remove the cancer and see where it gets me. I'm thinking that if I take good measurements I can fab up a piece of steel that can be a "top-plate" for the new frame section and just butt it up against the top-frame of the good section, that way it's not open. I think it will be more structurally capable that way because it will be a "fully-boxed-frame" like the rest, since there's a point of stress right below that frame section (the spring shackle). If I pulled hard enough I could probably yank out the shackle as it sits now lol.

Another concern is I'm wondering how good the plate where the body-mount resides and if I have to replace that bracket too, I can't tell until everything comes apart and I get the corrosion removed. That Por-15 is a rust-preventer or rust-encapsulator? While I got the rusted out sections cut out should I use that on the inside of the frame in that area since I'll have a clear access to it?

Will report back on this thread when I make some progress, gonna go get my cut-wheel and wire-wheel ready lol.
 

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+1 on the safety caps and using a 110 welder...dont be surprised if you find more rust. IIRC the body mount plates are part of the crossmembers in the rear...you can see how I used the safety caps in my build thread post #2..YMMV Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
+1 on the safety caps and using a 110 welder...dont be surprised if you find more rust. IIRC the body mount plates are part of the crossmembers in the rear...you can see how I used the safety caps in my build thread post #2..YMMV Good Luck!

Looks good man, nice jeep and frame repair. It's a shame Jeep didn't have the foresight to know that the YJ frame needed drain-holes until the TJ's lol, so many YJ's suffer the same problem. I'm definitely excited about doing this now.
 

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Thanks! Agreed..That's one + for installing safety caps they have drain holes...also I think YJs should have come with a 1" BL so you can get in there and clean everything out.
 

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They didn't figure it out on the tj's either.... they rust out WAY worse than yj's do even being 10 years newer
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I made some good headway today on the frame issue. Got the fuel-tank dropped and the rear bumper off. I'm glad I took the rear bumper off because technically I had plenty of space to remove the bad-areas with on but then I suspected that the rear-crossmember could also be damaged, and it was right where the frame attaches to it. I'll have to weld in a small repair to the crossmember somehow, not too worried about it.

Good news is that the top of the frame rail seems real solid and it looks like only the bottom 75% of the rail is jank, so looks like I won't have to fab up a top-rail piece, (not 100% sure though because I haven't removed any of the cancer yet, but so far looks good).

Now if someone could please explain the safest way to remove the right-rear shackle? I have never done this so I want to make sure the spring doesn't snap back in my face or the shackle crush my fingers lol.
 

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How does the other gas tank cross member look? I just spent last weekend patching a friends up because he did not want to spend $170 on a replacement. It turned out really good i might post some pix of how we did it with some 1/8" steel for about $20 and some work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How does the other gas tank cross member look? I just spent last weekend patching a friends up because he did not want to spend $170 on a replacement. It turned out really good i might post some pix of how we did it with some 1/8" steel for about $20 and some work.
It's actually in really good shape. Yes send all the pix you can I like to see how other people did their repairs. I also checked out the drivers-rear shackle frame section and there's not an ounce of rust. I still want to drill a big 'ol drainhole in both sides when I'm done, just in case lol. The only damage I have is the passenger-rear shackle area.
 

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Now if someone could please explain the safest way to remove the right-rear shackle? I have never done this so I want to make sure the spring doesn't snap back in my face or the shackle crush my fingers lol.



as long as the jeep is supported by jack stands under the frame in front of the spring hanger with the weight off the axle and the axle dangling with no weight on the springs. You can just put a jack under the spring plate and put a little pressure on it and remove the shackle bolt. As long as there is no weight on the leaf spring they will not be under any tension.


like this...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
as long as the jeep is supported by jack stands under the frame in front of the spring hanger with the weight off the axle and the axle dangling with no weight on the springs. You can just put a jack under the spring plate and put a little pressure on it and remove the shackle bolt. As long as there is no weight on the leaf spring they will not be under any tension.

like this...

It's hard to tell in the pic, just to confirm you're saying jack up Jeep on the frame and then put on stands, so the axles droop all the way down, then jack up the axle slightly to relieve any pressure?
 

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It's hard to tell in the pic, just to confirm you're saying jack up Jeep on the frame and then put on stands, so the axles droop all the way down, then jack up the axle slightly to relieve any pressure?



Yes, I usually jack the jeep up so the tire is about an inch off the ground. Then i take the tire off and put a 6 ton (biggest i have) jack stand in front of the spring hanger. Then lower the jeep down slowly until the frame is resting stably on the jack stand, then i do the other side. I make sure to get the jack stands the same height on both sides so it dont end up leaning one way.



Here is another pic i found of the rear it shows the jack stand placement a little better.
 

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I agree with the not needing a big welder for this. You will only be welding 1/8" steel. Do you have a buddy that can bring one over? I am in the wrong corner of PA or I would.
Ah that would be 3/16" steel

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Ah that would be 3/16" steel

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I'm not sure who's frames you have measured, but I have cut and spliced plenty of spots in my frame and it is most definitely 1/8". Maybe at some point they started making them heavier since mine is an '87. I just measured a piece last weekend where I notched the frame rail for steering clearance.
 

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I'm not sure who's frames you have measured, but I have cut and spliced plenty of spots in my frame and it is most definitely 1/8". Maybe at some point they started making them heavier since mine is an '87. I just measured a piece last weekend where I notched the frame rail for steering clearance.



Yep the frame is 1/8" or 11 gauge
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had couple minutes after work to do some more. Dropped the spring and took apart the shackle. Now I just gotta mark out the frame and cut out the cancer, whoot whoot! Bad news is that I can't remove the body-mount for more clearance, looks like the nut broke off inside and it's just spinning, will find a way to work around it.
 

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