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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

I'm very new to this frame rot and need some advice. I recently bough a 2000 tj and the shop I had inspect it saw no issues. I was under it earlier and noticed a long rusty open space in the frame. Is this something that can be braced by a good welder (not me, I work with them)? Is this something that needs to get fixed ASAP, or is this typical for a northern 2000?

Thanks

Aaron
 

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Ug that looks bad. TJs seem to start rusting around the control arm mounts, especially in areas that salt the roads. I'd fix it as soon as you could. If you know someone with fabrication skills you can have a patch made, otherwise a company named Autorust makes patches you can weld on.

Worst case is the frame fails in that spot. It happened to me with the rear control arm mount. I was just lucky it finally went close to home. If you want to see how the Autorust patches work you can check my thread:http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/i-hate-rust-555113.html
 

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If your shop missed that I would only go back there to tell them off. You need to get that fixed.
 

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Definitely need to get that fixed ASAP. Patches are a good start like Mets said; if you know someone with the skill to fix it for you
 

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If your shop missed that I would only go back there to tell them off. You need to get that fixed.
No Kidding! They should have at least warned him about it.......dont go back to that shop!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Took off the steps to get a better look and to beat out the rest. All I can say is wow. I'm really glad I found this because I can't be more than a pothole or two away from breakage. As you can see, the rust ate all the way through both sides.

Question on the repair kit. Part looks great except that it only extends about an inch behind the frame mount. Looks like I need about 3 inches with overlap. Just have my welder add some steel to the part, or do I have to buy the entire length of side kit? Emailed auto rust early today to ask but no response.


Thanks again.

Aaron
 

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Wow, that is no joke. A person I work with had a very similar problem recently, his transfer case skid actually fell off while he was driving due to rust. His solution was installing a used frame in good condition. Your rust seems extensive enough to warrant that, once it starts its very difficult to stop. It is apparently close in cost or cheaper to throw a new frame in there than it is to repair rust that bad. Good luck.
 

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Sorry to say, but you need a new frame. Some jedi-like welding skills and new steel plate might hold for a while, but that is pretty far gone and likely not enough clean metal for good welds.

That being sad, I must say that easily the place you took the Jeep to for inspection is the worst shop on the planet, and perhaps in the history of terrible mechanics. How they missed that is beyond me. This is the type of place that changes your tires and leaves a few lug nuts off or loose enough to cause an accident a week later. Your first red flag should have been when this guy said "you gots a real purty Jeep Cherokee".

 

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Sorry to say, but you need a new frame. Some jedi-like welding skills and new steel plate might hold for a while, but that is pretty far gone and likely not enough clean metal for good welds. That being sad, I must say that easily the place you took the Jeep to for inspection is the worst shop on the planet, and perhaps in the history of terrible mechanics. How they missed that is beyond me. This is the type of place that changes your tires and leaves a few lug nuts off or loose enough to cause an accident a week later. Your first red flag should have been when this guy said "you gots a real purty Jeep Cherokee".
X2 bad juju there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Taking advice here, I ordered a replacement frame part that I think will work. Front Frame, Rear Section, W/ Trail Arm Mount, 97-03 TJ Wrangler [ART-129-R] - $149.95 : Safe-T-Cap Frame Repair Kits by Auto Rust Technicians, we make it easy to make it safe

I will need to add 2-3 inches of metal to replace the bit behind the body mount. Past the body mount, the metal seems OK. The metal above and below the missing frame seems solid. Hoping to have everything welded on next Friday. Crossing fingers...

Rest of the frame seems OK. Beat what I could reach last night, and the screwdriver / hammer didn't make any new holes!

-Aaron
 

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Hard to tell from just the pics shown: If the rest is ok, it's salvageable. I would look into some inner reinforcement too. The safe-T cap goes on the outside, what about box frame that is a bit smaller put on the inside after the dead metal is cut out? Take some wider angle pics when you get a chance, so we can see more. As long as the welder knows his job, you shouldnt have any problem. Lotta folks here have no idea how much trouble it is to swap to a new frame. It is not an easy task!
 

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Not sure if you know about this place but there's a jeep salvage yard right next to 4wd hardware in Ohio called Daveys Jeeps (check out their web site). They have a ton of TJ frames laying around. I would look into a newer frame if mine looked like yours.

www.daveysjeeps.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thought I would post a during and after picture. We had to cut off some of the safe t cap piece to avoid a brake line and for fitment on inside. Also added about 7 inches of 10 gauge to get to good metal towards the back.

Thanks again for the help. And sure glad I know someone with a plasma and welding gear. Guessing this would have been pricey at the shop.

Aaron
 

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That looks pretty good! Now take it out and beat on it! Flex the heck out of it! Twist it up and make sure the welds will hold. Paint it up and your good to go. People who are quick to recommend doing a "frame swap" often have *no* idea what is involved...used to be easy with the CJ's....today, not so much.
 
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