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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks:

I'm considering buying a TJ. I got these pictures of underneath. It looks pretty good to me. The frame looks sound. Anyone have opinions either way? Thanks!

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2006 TJ Rubicon, 4.0, automatic
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Some rust on the rear cross member that might need to be headed off before it becomes a big problem. I would want to see between the tcase skid and frame, if possible. I’d also check inside the frame with a light. What rust I see on the side of the frame looks pretty superficial. The rust on the tcase skid looks deeper. Are there bolts missing from the tcase skid? It’s lifted and is a Rubi right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It does look like there are two bolts missing from the skid plate. Hmm.

And yes...it's a 2 inch old man emu lift on a Rubi.

Here are more photos. You folks are making me think twice about it for sure.

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I think the outside of the frame doesn’t look bad given the location. In fact I think it looks good for being where it is. The inside of the frame rails would be the make or break for me. If they have rust inside it could be a can of worms depending on how bad it is. I would question the owner on why bolts are missing from the skid. That makes me wonder why it was down, and what was done by whom. The rust on the rear crossmember looks to be fixable. The rust on the axle housings is 50/50. The CA brackets definitely need some love at the least.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm going to contact a shop I trust and send them the pics to see what they think as well.

@Sgt_USMC Thanks for keeping me from diving right in. heh. I'll contact the seller and ask them about the bolts and for some pics of the inside of the frame.
 

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06 TJ SE 2.4L 6spd, 79 CJ5 258ci 4spd, 83 CJ7 258ci auto
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Only 50k on an 06 TJ, that rust to me ain't that bad, yeah look it over but the big question is, 06 Rubi low mileage...how much? That would make me determine how much rust is too much, all that I see can be headed off.
 
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@armyvet25 Well, here's the thing. It's actually a 2006 LJ Rubi. So yeah, they ain't just askin' only 18k for it or anything, so I wanna make sure I'm not getting in over my head.
 

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06 TJ SE 2.4L 6spd, 79 CJ5 258ci 4spd, 83 CJ7 258ci auto
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@armyvet25 Well, here's the thing. It's actually a 2006 LJ Rubi. So yeah, they ain't just askin' only 18k for it or anything, so I wanna make sure I'm not getting in over my head.
LJ's are a little more pricey these days, so there's that, I'll give you my estimate, I've seen the same thing go for ridiculous amounts, well not go for, but asking...without seeing body or inside, 12-14, I personally wouldn't pay more than 10-11, trust me, I'm in Ohio and like you the rust belt, I've seen a good hundred Jeeps out there this last month looking with my cousin for one, plenty of better candidates for the big money, plenty of mileage+rust out there for 5-9, 4cyl and auto's and hardtops seem to be cheaper(caveat-not LJ's lol). Mine is a 4cyl, 6spd with 129 on the clock when bought for a good deal less than 8.
 

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Skid should have 3 main bolts each side into the frame. 4 smaller studs with nuts for the trans mount. From the pics, appears all are present and accounted for. My LJR was $16k 7 years ago in Ca. That was a decent deal. 76k miles then. They go for more now. My rust was similar to that, and my frame is quite solid. Worst spots tend to be low points around the control arm brackets. Tap around there with a small hammer and compare the sound with elsewhere along the bottom of the frame. If it sounds dead or muffled, walk away. Sounds similar, I’d buy it.
 

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The frame actually looks to be in good condition. I would bet that the only potential trouble areas on that frame are the center skid plate sections and the inside of the very rear fuel tank crossmember. It should clean up well.

The engine oil pan and the exhaust are ready to go though. No exhaust leaks on the test drive? 17 year old vehicle. It will need some attention but I would be down to buy it.
 

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Rather than try to find a good used skid (doubt there are any New Old Stock around) Take that one off, wire brush it down and repaint and reinstall. Be sure to remember to support the transfer case and transmission when you do that. You may want to soak the bolts in PB Blaster before trying to unbolt the skid (the bolts go into nutserts). You will also need to be careful with the air compressors for the locking diffs.
 
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06 TJ SE 2.4L 6spd, 79 CJ5 258ci 4spd, 83 CJ7 258ci auto
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Any who claim hardtops are cheaper are daft
Try pricing a hardtop for an LJ on Craig’s list
Also full doors add value


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Then I'm daft lol, here where I've been looking, they are plentiful and usually cheaper than their soft top counterparts, and here in the north you wouldn't think so. My cousin and and I have been looking at TJ's 97-06 all models and it's what we've found out of the 50-100 looked at. Now LJ, that's another story, I never said they were.
 

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Around here a TJ with oem hardtop at least 500 more that one without hardtop and this was true before prices went crazy under branden economy

For a TJ or LJ full doors (perhaps all LJ had full doors) adds another 500

Now a dual oem top is more valuable than just a hardtop

Also full door hardtops generally have less inside rust and less dash steering column electrical issues

After market hardtops are best avoided as many are out of production with no availability of replacement parts or glass


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