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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day people. I am a newbie to the site and to be honest, I should have signed up last October.
I purchased a 95’ YJ Rio-Grande on E-Bay, drove out to Long Island and trailer-ed it back to Green Bay.
I bought it with the motor out, empty head, empty block. All the parts were contained in 7, 5 gallon buckets.
I am a carpenter by trade, I know how to use resources, watch you-tube videos and rent tools when needed, so I guess that makes me an amateur wrench also. Forgive me in advance if some of this information seems incorrect, I will do my best.
The chassis is a 95’, the block and head are 93’ (something about a Golen also), 242 4L L6, the intake is a mystery. It has been converted to spray and the coolant flows through it. The trans is disappointing, 88’ Peugeot.
The status of the build is this:
Master rebuild kit installed, engine is fully assembled, mounted and running. I have not driven it yet; the brakes still need to be done.
I have made the obvious electrical connections such as ACC to distributor, tach, temp sensor, batt to ignition switch, ignition switch to starter relay, relay control to starter. New neg wires from batt neg terminal to block, chassis, body and through the firewall. There are three mystery wires that exit the loom, just above the starter relay, on the fire wall in the engine bay. Two of the wires are black and ganged into a 5/16” eye, the other is also black with an identical eye. There is enough slack to reach the terminals of the starter but that is about it. I did not connect anything to the starter other than the batt pos and the control. This is more for a wire length reference. A continuity/voltage test shows that the two ganged eye has trace voltage with the key in the off position and 12 volts in start and run. The other eye is usually a ground. I placed a jumper from the two ganged eye to the batt pos terminal and another jumper from the single eye to the batt neg terminal. I started the vehicle and it ran fine. For the first time, I had gauge lights, the temp, fuel and tach all seemed to be accurate. I had stop, turn, and running lights at the rear but no side, running or headlamps at the front. When I turned the key to the off position, the gauges went flat, the lights went out, but the motor kept running. I pulled both jumpers at the same time and did not notice which one was responsible for closing the batt pos to distributor circuit. I may have also fried my stereo head unit. The 10 amp fuse was blown. I replaced it and reconnected the unit. The fuse remained intact but the back of the unit became so hot I wouldn’t want to touch it. Neither the display, nor the speakers ever produced the desired results.
The fuel pump may also be an issue. There is an aftermarket electric pump mounted to the frame just in front of the tank. When the key is turned to the first position, the pump engages and does not disengage until the key is returned to the off position. It does turn off momentarily as the key moves to the start position. I am not sure if this is the correct operational sequence for the pump or not.
I removed the center dash gauge cluster to find the printed circuit board has been compromised. The clock and the oil pressure gauge circuits are junk.
The oil pressure sending unit is installed but I cannot identify the correct wires or the connector for it.
I have also read that in the 95’, there is a PDC and a fuse block; I have not been able to locate a PDC.
There is no single SM for the multitude of years for each of the separate components.
The fact that the original 93’, 242 L6 was EFI and TBI and mine has been converted does not help either. There are connectors and wires that don’t get reused everywhere. I just don’t know which ones are abandoned and which ones are necessary.
To recap my issues:
Three mystery wires located above the starter relay.
No lights what so ever at the front end.
Fried stereo with excessive heat.
Fuel pump run on?
Location of the PDC if there is one.
As stated earlier, I am not a professional mechanic. Calling myself an amateur is giving me the benefit of the doubt. If further clarification is needed I will be happy to provide it.
Thank you
 

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Green Bay is pretty close to my weekend place (and my Jeep lives). I don't have much experience with the 95 but have a lot of experience with the 92 wiring from doing the SBC conversion. My next few weeks are a mess but if you still need help in July perhaps I can stop over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
WiCruiser, that is awesome. I will keep you posted on the progress and let you know if a I resolve the issues before July.
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I appear to be having a slight issue uploading the pictures.
Please bear with me.
Ok, I am holding the two mystery wires. My thumb is on the single eye, ground. The other is the two ganged eye with trace voltage in the off position and 12v in the start and run position. You can see the starter below and to the right. The batt pos to starter is heavy black and the starter control is green.
To the left of my hand is the only other batt pos cable coming off of the pos terminal. It attaches to, what appears to be, a distribution block mounted to the fire wall. The green starter control wire comes from this block also. These are the two wires that I jumpered to the pos and neg batt terminals, when i mentioned that the jeep kept running after I turned the key to the off position.
 

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I'm not sure but, I thought all plain black wires where Ground, [like to the fire wall are something] somebody help me here?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I agree Nubby55, that's exactly what I thought. Solid black wire, no tracers at all, but the eye that has the two wires ganged into it, has constant voltage. Red tester lead to the eye, black tester lead to batt neg. Trace voltage, (2-3 volts) with ign in off position and 12v in the start and run position.

I did track down a new starter relay today. That would be the device in the upper left corner of the picture above. The attached PDF defines what circuit each terminal is assigned too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Problem Solved. Thanks to Nubby_55. Black is ground. I think I was way to wrapped up in the problem to realize the simple solution. When I removed the old starter relay to install the new one, I discovered a small grounding stud on the fire wall. Given that the two mystery wires had eyes crimped on them, I automatically thought they either went to the terminals on the starter or the terminals on the battery.
Everything currently works as it should, with the exception of the head stereo head unit. If that is my only casualty of this build, I can live with that.
Thank you for the advice and please read my most recent post pertaining to carburetors.
 
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