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It is easy to install a lift and forget about it but these things really needed to be checked over once an a while and every thing re-torqued. I like to go over mine every 5000 miles or so or after a good hard week of wheeling. I just got back from Moab where I spent a lot of time bouncing around on the trails and yesterday crawled under the rig with my torq wrench. Most everything was still good and tight but both front upper control arms needed a 1/2-3/4 turn to click on the set torque and the passenger rear upper control arm was even looser. I am a firm believer that the paint pencil marks are not a good indicator, as going by that they should have been fully torqued. I find it somewhat common that the front and rear track bar need re-torquing every once and a while and when I have buddies who are complaining of their jeeps wondering on the road that is the first thing I check and more often than not I find they are not close to 120-125 ft/lbs.
 

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Good reminder. I will have to wait until the Monsoons in S. Georgia have abated.


Post it note on the message board.
 

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Most everything was still good and tight but both front upper control arms needed a 1/2-3/4 turn to click on the set torque and the passenger rear upper control arm was even looser. I am a firm believer that the paint pencil marks are not a good indicator, as going by that they should have been fully torqued.
Hmm, I don't have a good feeling about this. Because if the pencil marks remained the same, then what you have is either wear of the inner sleeve ends or worse, stretching of the bolt. I expect the twisting forces at high articulation to be responsible.
 

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I just installed my lift yesterday. I'm planning on checking everything next tire rotation (~5k miles)
 

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Hmm, I don't have a good feeling about this. Because if the pencil marks remained the same, then what you have is either wear of the inner sleeve ends or worse, stretching of the bolt. I expect the twisting forces at high articulation to be responsible.
I think it is because usually only the side out that is readily visible and easy to mark gets marked and the side in is the nut which can loosen. anyway it has been that way for me on 4 different rigs.
 

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Any good tools to torque control arms?


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I use a long breaker bar and a torq wrench the breaker bar going the opposite way on the opposite side of the bolt I am torqueing holds the nut from turning (the handle of the breaker is on the ground so it is a one man job).
 

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I use a long breaker bar and a torq wrench the breaker bar going the opposite way on the opposite side of the bolt I am torqueing holds the nut from turning (the handle of the breaker is on the ground so it is a one man job).

This is exactly how I do it. Nice to know I'm not totally crazy.
 

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Any good tools to torque control arms?


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As the others pointed out, this is not the difficult dilemma many make it out to be. Some go so far as to insist on a jig. That's silly. Counter-torque with whatever tool and keep an eye on the ends. Jam a fat screwdriver between the mounting bracket and end as you torque, to keep the end from twisting. You do not want to bias ends one way or the other. Just keep them plumb.
 

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That only applies to people with adjustable control arms. I think mostly everyone is talking about the pivot point bolts, not the jam nutz.

ben
 

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For the control arm pivots I do it mostly as mentioned, a big torque wrench and a 1/2" breaker bar and socket when required on the other side. The upper rear control arm pivots on the axle side were a pain until I replaced the bump stop pad extensions with extension that go on the chassis side (from TF). That allows me to just pull the rubber bumper (Jounce) out of the cup and access to the pivot is easy. The TF cup extensions come in a 2" size, which happens to be what I run.
 
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