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Discussion Starter #1
So im searching this forum all day and cant find the right answer so i apologize in advance and if there is a thread im not seeing please post! Been chasing a front wheel shake at 55-60mph For months now i have noticed with my steering wheel straight if i stare at the front wheels my driver side wheel is straight and the passenger side wheel is way toed out.Now,i have not found the right answer because i keep reading the same thing on the threads that theres no way that my wheels have 2 opposite toes or maybe its an optical illusion.I disagree.My wheel is for sure toed way the hell out and does not look right.Is there a fix for bringing in my passenger wheel only adjusting on my tie rod? From what ive read and been told is that my tie rod can only adjust two ways and thats bringing both my wheels in or bringing them back out(the toe i mean) I strongly believe between the passenger wheel being toed way out and the fact that my stock trackback is shorter after doing the 3.5'' lift(from what ive read and why im installing a RE adjustable trackbar this weekend) that this is why my front wheels have a bad shimmy at those speeds i stated and i know it is not death wobble.My alignment was done twice but im assuming the machine rack said my wheels were aligned and the mechanic didnt notice the one really toed out passenger wheel? Ive also had my wheels balanced twice from 2 different shops and still have the front end shake.I know its hard to pinpoint the issue without seeing in person cus it can be so many things causing it.Not that it helps a whole lot but i also have a steering stabalizer on as well.Any input or direction to a helpful thread or also just some best ways to do my own alignment in the comfort of my driveway would be greatly appreciated.Thanks everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Also had my truck on stands last night and i checked for any play in my wheels and they seem pretty solid so im gonna assume my joints are good and also watched my steering components while my buddy turned the wheel back and forth and didnt see any obvious play.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As a matter of fact i measured my axle a few hours ago_One side measuring off my springs is 16-1/8" and the other side was 16-7/8''....does that sound like its off center that bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will have to find my print out its been months since i had the alignment done this being after the lift was installed but i will post them as soon as i find them if it helps
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can you put up your alignment numbers.
My rough country lift rides like garbage thats why im ripping this lift out little by little.I am installing some bilstein 5100s this weekend.How do you like them?
 

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My rough country lift rides like garbage thats why im ripping this lift out little by little.I am installing some bilstein 5100s this weekend.How do you like them?
My experience with bilstein 5100s has been zero complaints. I would recommend them. I've run the Teraflex 9550s and those were fine too. A little softer I'd say than the bilsteins.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Seems like you have a few things going on.
First center the axle then set toe.
You're seeing uneven toe because the steering wheel is not center.
Basically you need a alignment .. Bad :)
I brought my jeep to my buddies shop because all of a sudden my steering wheel was off a little.I know my axels are not centered cus i measured them earlier today.When my buddy lossened my draglink(im assuming thats what he loosened) i hopped up into my truck and he told me to straighten the wheel and he told me he didnt have to touch anything meaning he tightened everything back in the same spot it orginally was after i straightened the wheel.Im all messed up lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My experience with bilstein 5100s has been zero complaints. I would recommend them. I've run the Teraflex 9550s and those were fine too. A little softer I'd say than the bilsteins.

Sweet.Im only swapping because it feels like im driving a boat even at very slow speeds.So im swapping out with some bilstein 5100s and some RK springs because my current rough country springs are so soft i can easily push my tuck down from the front bumper and my buddy who is a mechanic told me i should NOT be able to compress my springs that much lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
But let me ask this.Can i possibly bring in the toe on my passenger wheel only or does my tie rod only allow me to bring both in or out at the same time? ive never done these things myself until recently researching alot and realizing how easy it is to do alot of this stuff in my own driveway.Invested alot of money in my Jeep as im sure everyone feels at some point lol
 

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When the drag link collar is used to center the steering wheel, you shouldn't move the steering wheel physically. Rotating the collar will do this.
 

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Before you go ripping out stuff..... No matter what lift you go with you need to understand the geometry involved.... First set your toe in, Plenty of vids on youtube, Next center your steering wheel....Again.. you tube. Camber is what it is. Caster can only be adjusted by length of control arms...Either cam bolts, (dont do it) drop brackets...(better) adjustable upper or lower control arms.(yes please) Pick your poison. and you need to adjust your track bar so your axle is centered...Best option is adjustable track bar. Its actually pretty easy....I measured my stock caster via phone app, then adjusted my upper control arms until I was close to factory reading...When I went for my alignment I was perfect at 5deg. So I paid people for peace of mind because he changed nothing! It really isnt that hard.
 

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Oh, And I love my 5100s
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When the drag link collar is used to center the steering wheel, you shouldn't move the steering wheel physically. Rotating the collar will do this.
Yes im realizing that lol i watched some videos on adjusting my steering wheel and everyone easily did it right from the draglink ike youre supposed to do.So im not sure what he was doing then.This weekend hopefully im gonna get the new track bar on and recenter my axel and then try to get my toe in on bout sides i believe the proper toe in is about 1/16'-1/8'?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Before you go ripping out stuff..... No matter what lift you go with you need to understand the geometry involved.... First set your toe in, Plenty of vids on youtube, Next center your steering wheel....Again.. you tube. Camber is what it is. Caster can only be adjusted by length of control arms...Either cam bolts, (dont do it) drop brackets...(better) adjustable upper or lower control arms.(yes please) Pick your poison. and you need to adjust your track bar so your axle is centered...Best option is adjustable track bar. Its actually pretty easy....I measured my stock caster via phone app, then adjusted my upper control arms until I was close to factory reading...When I went for my alignment I was perfect at 5deg. So I paid people for peace of mind because he changed nothing! It really isnt that hard.

I was considering the drop brackets for control arm correction but i do not like the loss of clearence even tho most people say i gotta pick my battlles with clearence or comfort lol I have the RE adjustable trackbar coming.I also threw in a lower fixed front control arm from what the sales tech told me is actually 2'' longer and gives me the needed 5 degrees i need so ill see how that goes first along with setting my toe and recentering my axles
 

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Yes i am.I love it! Got the Gen 2 10,000lbs winch on as well
Haha! Well imma bout to derail your thread because I want that bumper. It's not bolt on right? You have to drill some? If you don't mind a few pointless post in your thread about this, or you can just PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Haha! Well imma bout to derail your thread because I want that bumper. It's not bolt on right? You have to drill some? If you don't mind a few pointless post in your thread about this, or you can just PM me.

Not at all man.Yes it was ALL bolt on.I have a 2010 Sahara.The manual that comes with the stinger tells you that you have to makes some holes bigger when installing the actual bumper which i did not have to do at all.Also,the stinger comes with a small skit plate which also says you have to ream 4 holes i think in the stinger to fit.I never put this skit plate on i didnt see the need for it and it looks good with out it.Again theres no crazy drilling involved or finding any certain points to drill.For the most part,on a JK its really just all bolt on.Plus if you actually see this skid plate in person you may say the hell with puttin it on as well
 
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