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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2015 Jeep JK Sports is currently at 55K miles. Took it to the dealer for some other maintenance at around 36K miles and they told me my inner axle seals are leaking since my axle tube is wet and recommended that I replace it there.

I didn't. And when I change my diff fluid last night, the fluid level is still right at the bottom of the fill hole. Does this mean the leak is very very tiny which seems unlikely since I drove it for 19k miles and the fluid level didn't drop at all. Or the dealer was just lying to me?
 

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Look at the axle tubes by the knuckles, the rim and tires for oil spots, runs. Also look the spot you normally park at. Pretty easy to tell if they are leaking.
 

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the axle seal is covered under your 5/100,000 drive train warranty. have them do it. One thing about leaks is they don't go away on their own. It is a common problem so no the dealer is probably not lying to you. the issue is not so much running out of gear oil but leaking axle seals make a mess and can contaminate your brake pads if they get bad enough.
 

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Front axle? The fill level is right at the bottom of the axle tube, so any leak there is minor at first.

Get it replaced under warranty. I did that once.
 

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I have one that is leaking but I am out of warranty, I have been dragging my feet on getting it fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am out of warranty that's why I am curious if it's necessary to fix it. I am pretty confident I can do it myself, but I wold rather not mess with the gears if I don't have to.
 

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As mentioned above, leaks don't get better. Also they work both ways - water and dirt will find their way in.

It's supposedly a DIY job, there are quite a few videos on the interwebs. If not, find an independent shop. Dealerships will rape you.
 

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i have the same problem, the mechanic also said the biggest issue is it leaking on the brakes... leaks get worse. I have replaced an axle seal on a suburban, not that big of a deal, once you get everything apart.

Is there anything else worth doing while the axles are out of the diff, i was thinking of upgrading the diff cover. maybe replace the u joints while its apart?
 

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i have the same problem, the mechanic also said the biggest issue is it leaking on the brakes... leaks get worse. I have replaced an axle seal on a suburban, not that big of a deal, once you get everything apart.

Is there anything else worth doing while the axles are out of the diff, i was thinking of upgrading the diff cover. maybe replace the u joints while its apart?
Welcome to the Forum.
 
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Going in tomorrow morning for the rear terraflex BBK upgrade...Going to have them check and repair seals also. I am sure My outer rear axle seal is bad...I found smelly gear oil slung up into the wheel well...not particularly on the wheel but all over the plastic in the well

4WP has been good so far can recommend.
 

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I am out of warranty that's why I am curious if it's necessary to fix it. I am pretty confident I can do it myself, but I wold rather not mess with the gears if I don't have to.
I used to be a mechanic. I attempted to replace the axle seals on my own. Long story short, you should purchase the special tool. It will make installing the axle seals much easier. P/N is 6797A ("turnbuckle") and 8110A ("Installer, Seal, Set of 2 Discs").

Now, you will need to remove and re-install the differential carrier. Removing it is not that difficult if you stuff the rag where the pinion and ring gear meet, and then rotate the ring gear.

However, re-installing the differential carrier is a major PITA. And, if you do not do that correctly, you may need to buy a whole new axle. Yeah, that's what I did. I really fu**ed up re-installing it. It went in cock-eyed and I could not get it back out. So, I had to buy a new axle.

If you want to do it on your own, you will need a differential case spreader ($500+ for the W-129B special tool), as well as a shim driver (e.g., Yukon), and a dial indicator.

So, you really need to ask yourself: how long do you plan on keeping the Jeep so that the tools pay for themselves? If not long, you may want to just let a dealer take care of it. They have the special tools already.

Can you do it without the special tools? Sure. But, I would not recommend it. It is a PITA to get this differential carrier in the housing without spreading the housing.

Edit: Oh, and by the way, you cannot use the W-129B differential case spreader with the axle on the vehicle. You have to remove the entire axle from the vehicle.
 

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i have the same problem, the mechanic also said the biggest issue is it leaking on the brakes... leaks get worse. I have replaced an axle seal on a suburban, not that big of a deal, once you get everything apart.

Is there anything else worth doing while the axles are out of the diff, i was thinking of upgrading the diff cover. maybe replace the u joints while its apart?

Yes, the U-joints. It's a perfect time to replace them.
 

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Well, one may not be able to use that particular case spreader on the axle in the vehicle, but there are many others that you can. This ARB one is way less money and works on the axle in place. https://www.quadratec.com/products/...ErBb7eQv17LpL0MwULeof3UH7ui4nUloaAjaKEALw_wcB I know from experience that this one works in the vehicle. Just make sure that you have backed off on the bearing caps. Yes, I made that mistake once, one cap was not loose enough and the bearing cap kept the case from spreading.

It's not hard to remove and reinstall the carrier. You need to be careful, yes, but if you are, it's relatively easy. A shim driver is a nice tool to have if you added a locker as you most likely have a shim pack and not a master shim.

If you are still under the drive train warranty though, let the dealer do it.
 

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I used to be a mechanic. I attempted to replace the axle seals on my own. Long story short, you should purchase the special tool. It will make installing the axle seals much easier. P/N is 6797A ("turnbuckle") and 8110A ("Installer, Seal, Set of 2 Discs").

Now, you will need to remove and re-install the differential carrier. Removing it is not that difficult if you stuff the rag where the pinion and ring gear meet, and then rotate the ring gear.

However, re-installing the differential carrier is a major PITA. And, if you do not do that correctly, you may need to buy a whole new axle. Yeah, that's what I did. I really fu**ed up re-installing it. It went in cock-eyed and I could not get it back out. So, I had to buy a new axle.

If you want to do it on your own, you will need a differential case spreader ($500+ for the W-129B special tool), as well as a shim driver (e.g., Yukon), and a dial indicator.

So, you really need to ask yourself: how long do you plan on keeping the Jeep so that the tools pay for themselves? If not long, you may want to just let a dealer take care of it. They have the special tools already.

Can you do it without the special tools? Sure. But, I would not recommend it. It is a PITA to get this differential carrier in the housing without spreading the housing.

Edit: Oh, and by the way, you cannot use the W-129B differential case spreader with the axle on the vehicle. You have to remove the entire axle from the vehicle.



Was this a JK / Dana axle? I have to do this to my D44 front axle and have been looking at a few videos to prep myself. None of the videos showed them using a case spreader so you are really catching me off guard! Just wondering if I need to re-think this whole task.
Thanks for any info!
 

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Was this a JK / Dana axle? I have to do this to my D44 front axle and have been looking at a few videos to prep myself. None of the videos showed them using a case spreader so you are really catching me off guard! Just wondering if I need to re-think this whole task.
Thanks for any info!

With locker?


There is an additional step with a locker involved so you don't break the locker proving switch.




And... no spreader needed.
 

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Was this a JK / Dana axle? I have to do this to my D44 front axle and have been looking at a few videos to prep myself. None of the videos showed them using a case spreader so you are really catching me off guard! Just wondering if I need to re-think this whole task.
Thanks for any info!

JK Dana 30 stock front axle. 50/50. I guess you just have to take the risk if you don't want to spend the money on the tools. Some people say they didn't need one, so you'll probably be ok without it. I would get the shim driver though. Really handy and it allows you to drive in the shims with an equal distribution of pressure instead of in just one spot (if you are using a drift, for example).
 

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JK Dana 30 stock front axle. 50/50. I guess you just have to take the risk if you don't want to spend the money on the tools. Some people say they didn't need one, so you'll probably be ok without it. I would get the shim driver though. Really handy and it allows you to drive in the shims with an equal distribution of pressure instead of in just one spot (if you are using a drift, for example).

Was that a shim driver he was using in the video to knocking the left shim?


And thanks for all the replies!


Terry
 

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Was that a shim driver he was using in the video to knocking the left shim?

And thanks for all the replies!

Terry

Hmmm it is hard to see...but it looked like some piece of shop metal that that particular installer uses for the job. It looked nothing like the Yukon or ARB shim driver.


You're welcome.
 
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