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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, All,
Dealer just replaced rear diff carrier bearing, etc. (was clunking) so they flushed while there. Should I have the front diff flushed, too? 2010 JKUI with 32K easy (very little towing/no offroad) miles.

Thanks!

S
 

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mild or wild... every 15000 isn't a bad idea. and it's about the easiest thing on your jeep to service :whistling:

do it yourself. :whistling:
 

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The shop up the street will do the front diff and transfer case for $100. I think that's cheap enough to have done (and for me to not bother with doing it).

Though ^ brings up a good point, it doesn't get used more than a few times a year. Hmm.
 

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Flush? What are they flushing? It's easy to do your own and is no more then $30 to buy fluid, can be cheaper depending on what you buy. I like to use the paper gaskets as they seem to hold up better off-road so add a few bucks if you get those.
 

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The shop up the street will do the front diff and transfer case for $100. I think that's cheap enough to have done (and for me to not bother with doing it).

Though ^ brings up a good point, it doesn't get used more than a few times a year. Hmm.
Unless I'm mistaken, the nature of the shift on the fly 4wd (without manual locking hubs) means the front driveline is spinning all the time anyway... Its being spun from the tire side, so doesn't have the force of the driveshaft on it, but its still doing what differentials do and all parts are moving.

I'd say when its time to do the back, might as well do the front. Someone can correct this if my comments are incorrect. :thumb:
 

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Unless I'm mistaken, the nature of the shift on the fly 4wd (without manual locking hubs) means the front driveline is spinning all the time anyway... Its being spun from the tire side, so doesn't have the force of the driveshaft on it, but its still doing what differentials do and all parts are moving.

I'd say when its time to do the back, might as well do the front. Someone can correct this if my comments are incorrect. :thumb:
You are correct. It is moving all of the time. That's why it's a good idea to do both.
 

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Noob question, is never heard of "flushing" the diffs before. Can someone e plain to me? Im at 46k miles and havent touched them once
 

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Unless I'm mistaken, the nature of the shift on the fly 4wd (without manual locking hubs) means the front driveline is spinning all the time anyway... Its being spun from the tire side, so doesn't have the force of the driveshaft on it, but its still doing what differentials do and all parts are moving.

I'd say when its time to do the back, might as well do the front. Someone can correct this if my comments are incorrect. :thumb:
I was pretty sure the front driveshaft was not turning in 2wd, but I could also be wrong.
 

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Do em both

It is the easiest thing on the jeep to do. Get a wrench and undo the filler plug. Then take the drain plug off, it will drain (need a drain pan). Then put the drain plug back in. Fill the diff from the filler bolt until it starts to come out where you are filling from. Put the filler bolt back in and your done.

For me I took both diffs off, cleaned up everything, put on a lifetime gasket instead of the seal Jeep uses, torqued all bolts to 25 ft/lbs (not 35 lbs), and refilled the diffs with some good synthetic diff oil. Done. Oh, and it sure is a lot cheaper than going somewhere to do it.
 

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I did my own, mostly because for what the dealer wanted, I was able to get ARB covers and Lubelockers and replace my fluids with Royal Purple! Plus I was able to get a good look at the innards myself and make sure everything was still in good shape.
 

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Oil, is cheap insurance, so change it................:thumb:
 

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I was pretty sure the front driveshaft was not turning in 2wd, but I could also be wrong.
I believe it would be, as its always connected via u-joint to the front differential. The disengaging of power to the front driveline takes place clear up at the transfer case.

These setups were a step forward in convenience, but way back as far as fuel economy and driveline power loss compared to the old manual locking hubs.
 

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Cost me $130 to have front diff and transfer case flushed-they use a cleaning agent?-and tires balanced/rotated since I had a little shimmy.

I guess in the end, it's about cost vs. convenience for me!
 

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Should I have the front diff flushed, too? 2010 JKUI with 32K easy (very little towing/no offroad) miles.
The 2013 owners manual (not sure about the 2010) says to change the front and rear fluids every 40,000 miles IF the vehicle is used for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing.

I guess it would apply to any severe duty use.
 

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Cost me $130 to have front diff and transfer case flushed-they use a cleaning agent?-and tires balanced/rotated since I had a little shimmy.

I guess in the end, it's about cost vs. convenience for me!
That's not too bad for all that. The transfer case is usually about $80, front and rear diff are about $200 ($100 each, that's to also have the covers taken off, cleaned inside, and inspected), plus the tire balance/rotated (no idea, I bought unlimited for $60 though).

So if I actually would pay for all this it would be about $340. If I got the same deal as you I might do it too.
 

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The 2013 owners manual (not sure about the 2010) says to change the front and rear fluids every 40,000 miles IF the vehicle is used for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing.

I guess it would apply to any severe duty use.
It's also best to be safe than sorry here. 40k is a lot of miles to wait - unless you aren't offroad at all. If you have synthetic you can go 35k, if you don't get them mucked up. Inspect them often at least, you don't want to get water, mud, muck in them and screw something up.
 
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