Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gonna be throwing in a new front DS. Was thinking Either Adams or Tom woods! Anyone have any other companies that are worth looking into?

Noticed my stock front is throwing a lot of grease without a torn boot and I just lifted it, so I’m gonna just replace it. Rear seems to be fine, front has started to die on me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
599 Posts
I run the Adams and no issues.
Consider the Dana Spicer, probably the top choice along with Adams and Tom Woods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,949 Posts
Oliver's Driveline and Gear in Winston Salem, NC.

They have excellent pricing, use Spicer sealed U Joints and a Spicer double cardin. Lifetime warranty on the tube and welds. $375 with shipping.

Both of my driveshafts are Oliver's and while I did have a problem with the front due to the Nepco double cardin they used to use (like Adams and Woods), They took care of it under warranty. I couldn't ask for better CS. The replacement DS is all Spicer now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,870 Posts
Powertrain Industries in Garden Grove CA did me right with my front and rear 1350s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,949 Posts
I run 1310's to have the "fuse" in the driveshaft and not somewhere that is a lot harder to fix. I know that some will disagree with me and that's fine. A 1350 is harder to break than a 1310.

To me, what that means is something other than an easy to replace U Joint will break. This happened to me last weekend at AOP in TN. Broke a rear DS 1310 on the trail. Drove/towed off the trail, replaced the U Joint that night and was back on the trails.

While I can't prove it, my feeling was that a 1350 may have held and something more devastating would have broken. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cummins_Powered

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,870 Posts
I agree definitely run 1310s on Dana 44s. 1350s are really only appropriate for 60s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
Gonna be throwing in a new front DS. Was thinking Either Adams or Tom woods! Anyone have any other companies that are worth looking into?

Noticed my stock front is throwing a lot of grease without a torn boot and I just lifted it, so I’m gonna just replace it. Rear seems to be fine, front has started to die on me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JE Reel has a good reputation.

Also, you might be able to save some money and time, and get equal quality and personalized service, from a local drive shaft builder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I run 1310's to have the "fuse" in the driveshaft and not somewhere that is a lot harder to fix. I know that some will disagree with me and that's fine. A 1350 is harder to break than a 1310.



To me, what that means is something other than an easy to replace U Joint will break. This happened to me last weekend at AOP in TN. Broke a rear DS 1310 on the trail. Drove/towed off the trail, replaced the U Joint that night and was back on the trails.



While I can't prove it, my feeling was that a 1350 may have held and something more devastating would have broken. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. ;)


I was planning on the 1310s. I appreciate the info tho! I think I’m gonna go with Adams shafts, found a good deal on a front shaft and it was about the same or less than many other mfg’s prices. Then eventually I’ll swap over the rears when budget allows


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Yes on 1310's, the "Shaft Shop" in Lancaster CA., has a good deal on custom, as well as rebuilding shafts, axles, and gears. (661) 723-1272, and 45715 23rd st east, Lancaster, CA.

I realize you are in Oregon, ( I have folks in Grants Pass ), but Mike can set you up well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes on 1310's, the "Shaft Shop" in Lancaster CA., has a good deal on custom, as well as rebuilding shafts, axles, and gears. (661) 723-1272, and 45715 23rd st east, Lancaster, CA.

I realize you are in Oregon, ( I have folks in Grants Pass ), but Mike can set you up well.


I happen to be in the same town lol. Thank you for the info, I’ll keep them in mind for future items. Don’t know or any good shaft shops local to me so I figured online would’ve been the next best bet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,949 Posts
I was planning on the 1310s. I appreciate the info tho! I think I’m gonna go with Adams shafts, found a good deal on a front shaft and it was about the same or less than many other mfg’s prices. Then eventually I’ll swap over the rears when budget allows


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nothing wrong with the Adams DS. I would highly recommend getting the sealed U Joints as greasable U Joints can be extremely difficult to get to in the double cardin joint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
Nothing wrong with the Adams DS. I would highly recommend getting the sealed U Joints as greasable U Joints can be extremely difficult to get to in the double cardin joint.
Even with the sealed driveshafts, you have to grease them.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
I run 1310's to have the "fuse" in the driveshaft and not somewhere that is a lot harder to fix.
That’s good in theory and maybe sometimes is true. But I n pretty much every case of a failed U joint I’ve seen, there is collateral damage (breakage or deformation of the ears or straps holding the U joint) rendering it impossible to simply install a new U joint and be on your way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,294 Posts
With a busted DS, you can remove it and with help get home. But a broken axle or knuckle U joint is more of a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,949 Posts
That’s good in theory and maybe sometimes is true. But I n pretty much every case of a failed U joint I’ve seen, there is collateral damage (breakage or deformation of the ears or straps holding the U joint) rendering it impossible to simply install a new U joint and be on your way.
You are correct and I did damage a strap also. I carry (2) spare 1310's and (4) U Joint straps. Because I carry the spares I do, it was pretty much replace the U Joint and the strap and I was ready for a new day of wheeling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got the Adams Shaft inbound, while looking at the instructions i saw they use a air impact gun, I don't have one available to me. has anyone installed a new shaft just using a battery impact gun? I have a dewalt and Milwaukee battery impacts but no air impact wrench. I am trying to locate someone that has a gun so i don't have to buy one just to rent a compressor for a day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,949 Posts
I actually had to buy an Earthquake 1/2" impact to do the job. A good battery powered one might do the job but at the time, I didn't have either a good air or a good battery impact at that time. One of the good Milwaukee's or Dewalt's might be OK. You can pull the front DS now, which will tell you if your tools will work.

My problem was the flange bolts to the front pinion flange. I couldn't break those loose and even bent a 1/2" breaker bar trying. The impact I had wouldn't touch them either. The HF Earthquake impact is a serious tool with 1000 ft-lbs of force. It had no issue breaking those bolts loose and also had no issues with the transfer case yoke.For $129 (on sale) it has been worth every penny.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,794 Posts
Got the Adams Shaft inbound, while looking at the instructions i saw they use a air impact gun, I don't have one available to me. has anyone installed a new shaft just using a battery impact gun? I have a dewalt and Milwaukee battery impacts but no air impact wrench. I am trying to locate someone that has a gun so i don't have to buy one just to rent a compressor for a day.
I just gave in and bought a Dewalt 20V 1/2" Impact gun. It was strong enough to do the pinion nuts and everything else I have asked it to do so far.
My only problem was doing the tie rod end nuts. I stopped before the nut was off, not realizing how tight they still were. I wanted the nuts still on so when I hit the joint and popped the taper out of the knuckle it would not fall to the ground. That worked, but as it turns out the nuts were still freakin tight and once popped out of the taper the nut would not unscrew any further. I ended up cutting it off. Doh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just gave in and bought a Dewalt 20V 1/2" Impact gun. It was strong enough to do the pinion nuts and everything else I have asked it to do so far.
My only problem was doing the tie rod end nuts. I stopped before the nut was off, not realizing how tight they still were. I wanted the nuts still on so when I hit the joint and popped the taper out of the knuckle it would not fall to the ground. That worked, but as it turns out the nuts were still freakin tight and once popped out of the taper the nut would not unscrew any further. I ended up cutting it off. Doh.

I have access to the same drill, Ill try that unless i can source a air impact. Thanks for the info guys, hitting those bolts with lots of pb blaster right now to hopefully help. its a bit rusty, its an 08.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top