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Hey guys,

I'm trying to chase down a vibration at highway speeds. I'm down to my stock front driveshaft. The CV/U Joints look and feel fine. However, there is some play/wiggle at the splines. If I grab each side of the shaft and do a push/pull, the shaft will move 1/8" or so.

Is this normal?

Thanks!

Matt

2009 JKUR


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hi Matt, I know it's been a year, but did you ever get an answer to your question. I was about to post the exact same thing when I came across yours.

Mike
 

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Since you just added your question to the thread, I’ll mention that it my research says it should not move. I’m not an expert, but have been researching because I need a new front driveshaft. Everything I have read says no movement is spec, any movement is bad. Mine moves about 1-2mm, the truck makes a loud clicking sound in 4H or 4L and at the bellows end of the driveshaft there is grease splatter. Here is a pic. Compare to your rear, my rear has zero grease and is rick solid, no motion.
 

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The rzeppa pictured above is at the beginning of the end. I would remove that driveshaft before it removes itself.
 
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Thanks YNotaJeep. That’s what I thought, amd what my shop thought, too, so it’s in process, Adams 1350’s en route for front and rear. Figured I’ll just keep out of 4 until they arrive. No Driveshaft noise under no load so I think the no load spinning of front is still ok for a few days. Nice Bernese in your avatar!
 

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If you plan on replacing the pinion yokes, let us know how you plan on doing it without changing the crush sleve load on the pinion. The Adams shafts are my choice also.
The front shaft does not require a pinion yoke change but I do plan on changing mine as it adds a little length and reduces the angle a little. The rear shaft requires a yoke change. A bad yoke change can cost you big bucks down the road with a failed pinion bearing and gear set.
 

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Thanks YNotaJeep. That’s what I thought, amd what my shop thought, too, so it’s in process, Adams 1350’s en route for front and rear. Figured I’ll just keep out of 4 until they arrive. No Driveshaft noise under no load so I think the no load spinning of front is still ok for a few days. Nice Bernese in your avatar!
Adams is a great choice. I just put on Adams front & rear 1310’s.
 

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Definitely replacing the yokes fonr amd rear, too. Not honestly sure about your question on the crush sleeve load. My wife has been unhappy lately with amount of time i’m in garage with my “mistress” so shop will be doing this one. I hd been planning to do it myself but haven’t done so before, so not sure of the risk your are highlighting. Hopefully they are up on it, I think they are good.



If you plan on replacing the pinion yokes, let us know how you plan on doing it without changing the crush sleve load on the pinion. The Adams shafts are my choice also.
The front shaft does not require a pinion yoke change but I do plan on changing mine as it adds a little length and reduces the angle a little. The rear shaft requires a yoke change. A bad yoke change can cost you big bucks down the road with a failed pinion bearing and gear set.
 

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Definitely replacing the yokes fonr amd rear, too. Not honestly sure about your question on the crush sleeve load. My wife has been unhappy lately with amount of time i’m in garage with my “mistress” so shop will be doing this one. I hd been planning to do it myself but haven’t done so before, so not sure of the risk your are highlighting. Hopefully they are up on it, I think they are good.
in a pinch when you have to replace a yoke and reset the torque specs and load i used thin thrust washers 5-10 thousants and re tightenen close to spec more by feal ,not binding ,have had to to many times for ware adjustments
 

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in a pinch when you have to replace a yoke and reset the torque specs and load i used thin thrust washers 5-10 thousants and re tightenen close to spec more by feal ,not binding ,have had to to many times for ware adjustments
I called and talked w/ Tom Woods about the yoke replacement. Their instructions simply say torque pinion nut to 160 ft/lb. He stated they have been doing it this way since 2007 when the JKU's came out and have not had any issues. So that's basically what I did for my Adams rear shaft.
 

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Fairly easy to change pinion yokes, tighten them down until there is no play in or out and side to side. Just go slow. I am in the process now of doing it as well as replacing the seals, front is leaking but doing the rear also. At the transfer case just torque the yokes down to 160 ft lbs.
 
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